Travel Tips

These books are excellent. I've read them both and highly recommend them:

Eric Cornell, North Korea Under Communism "The author of this book spent three years as head of the embassy of Sweden in Pyongyang. Until a few years ago, it was the only Western embassy in North Korea. His unique experiences are related with descriptions of day-to-day life and with analyses of economic, political and ideological conditions. A picture is drawn of a society and a political order that defy both human nature and common sense."

Bradt Travel Guide - North Korea "Covering the capital, Pyongyang, in detail, this guide offers in-depth information on the practical aspects of travelling to and around North Korea, including access from South Korea via the Hyundai ferry and from Beijing. It provides information on everything a traveller needs, including festivals and culture, red tape and security issues, and routes outwards from Pyongyang, various tour options and opportunities for excursions into unspoilt countryside. The guide offers an insight into the culture and history of a country that currently exists in virtual isolation from the rest of the world."

From my own experience:

DO go to North Korea! It's extremely interesting and you will get to see with your own eyes a political system that is unique in this world.

DO NOT go if you are American, South Korean or a journalist (from any country). You won't get in. Nick Bonner will be able to get something sorted out if you are a journalist or writer, but do not try to sneak in under false pretenses.

DO NOT go if you have a problem with the NK point of view on the Korean War or their political system!
The Koreans are fiercely proud of their Great Leader and Dear Leader and their achievements in and since the Korean War. We were asked to bow to KIS and KJI and pay our respects on at least four occasions, so if you think you have a problem with that, stay away. It’s not a case of showing respect, more a case of not showing disrespect.
Remember, you are a guest in their country. It’s impolite to argue with your hosts and you will not change their minds anyway.

DO allow plenty of time to get the trip organised. There's no such thing as a last minute bargain trip to NK. You will need a double entry Visa to China (get that from the Chinese Embassy in your country) and a Visa to NK. The tour operator will get that for you, but it's never straightforward. All in all, paperwork takes 4-6 weeks.

DO take your own supply of medicine, especially sleeping tablets and something for an upset stomach. I didn't sleep well, but I probably was just too excited at being there. More than half of our group at some time through the week suffered from diarrhoea (the other group were unaffected), so bring something just in case. You do not want to spend a day or two in the hotel, unable even to go for a walk.

DO bring something for your own breakfast, for example cheese, salami, cereal, orange juice. These are not normally provided and we only saw tiny packets of jam or honey. Brits and Australians may want to bring Marmite or Vegemite. Hot food is not served so don't worry about brown sauce or ketchup or stuff like that.

DO ask permission to bring your video camera. Apparently they occasionally get confiscated, but I asked Nick beforehand and there was no problem. Photo cameras are fine.

DO NOT take photographs without permission! Snapping away without the guides' consent is the most common cause of trouble, not only for you but for the whole group. As the week goes on, the guides will learn to trust you if you show willing to play along and there will be plenty of great photo opportunities.

DO bring enough batteries (or a charger) and film. There's little to buy. Electricity is 220V and they're using the European type wall sockets with two round pins.

DO NOT take candid or sneaked photos from trains or buses. If the North Koreans see you do it they are required to report it to the authorities. It's not worth the aggravation. Admittedly, street scenes are interesting, precisely because they show everyday live rather than what's prepared for you, but still... There are quite a few pictures available in books, so get those.

DO NOT bring any South Korean literature or pornography or anything else that might cause offence.

DO remember that hotel rooms are bugged, and the bus probably too. Don't do anything silly such as making fun of or laughing about KIS or KJI (as if you would...)

DO bring plenty of US-Dollars in small denominations. Be sure they are very clean notes or they may get refused! I was advised $200 would be enough, but I spent well over twice that. We saw the Mass Games at $50, and books are anything from $1 to $25. Then there are posters, stamps, videos, CDs etc. Cash is best, only few hotel shops take credit cards. There are currency exchange facilities into NK Won in the hotels if necessary (Department Store Number 1 and the funfair rides were in NK Won only).
You will spend virtually nothing on food, except drink. All meals and entry fees to museums are usually included in the tour price.

DO pretend you’re Russian! We found that prices quoted to them were cheaper than those quoted to us!

DO send postcards to all your friends and family. All of mine arrived at their destinations within 7-10 days and they make great souvenirs!

DO NOT ring home! It's extortionately expensive. Like a fool I did and thank God they accepted my credit card on checking out. It's about $5 per minute.
There are public phone boxes outside Department Store #1, but you won't be able to use them.

DO bring gifts for your guides.
It's customary to give your two guides a thank-you present at the end of the week. Bear in mind that not much is available in North Korea, but do not embarrass yourself or your guides with something cheap and nasty or ostentatiously expensive.
All NK men smoke, so a pack of ten (or 20) packs is always gratefully received. Perfume, a box a nice chocolate or a tape of classical music (so we're told) are popular with the female guides.
You will also meet several local guides at the museums and hotel staff, more often women than men. Small tins of Nivea cream are good, sample size bottles of perfume, or chocolate. Again, cigarettes for the men. It's not necessary for you to have a gift for each one you meet, but if you enjoyed their talk (most will answer questions and try to make it interesting), why not thank them?
It took us a while before we plucked up the courage to give gifts but you get used to it.
If you intend to take pictures of kids, small packs of sweets or pins or coloured pens are good. Always ask people for permission before taking their picture!

DO bring something for yourself! It's quite an intense week and you spend a lot of time on the bus. I was glad to have my Game Boy Advance and a book on me on the long journeys to and from Kaesong and Mt Myohyang.

DO go with the flow and you will have a fantastic time!

For Sale:
Music CDs as per Day 6	$15.00 each
'Pyongyang' Multimedia CD (Windows 95/98)	$35.00
DVD containing 250 songs in mp3 format (1 DVD or 2 CDs)	$50.00
Video tapes containing 3 hours of DPRK Television (two versions) - PAL format only!	$30.00 each
Payment: cash or Paypal - EMAIL ME

CDs

Please note that I'm offering these only on the understanding that they are copies of originals bought in NK (except the 3hr video from TV). They are not to be used for commercial purposes and only intended to underline some of the points I made in this travel diary.

 

Beijing:

You are most likely to enter NK from China, either by plane or railway.

I flew with Swiss (formerly Swiss Air) from London Heathrow via Zurich to Beijing, £414 return, arranged by Trailfinder. KLM and Lufthansa have similar flights via Amsterdam and Frankfurt.

DO, on arrival at Beijing Airport, take the bus from just outside to Beijing Railway Station (Beijing Zhan). It's only RMB 16 and it gets you straight into town. Taxis will be around ten times that!
Good hotels are the Beijing International or the Harmony, both within easy walking distance of the railway station and the main shopping street Wangfujing, Tiananmen Square and the Friendship Store (15-20 minutes walk eastwards).

DO NOT contact these hotels directly, but always go through the internet discount agencies such as asia-travel.com, to get amazing deals. I intended to stay at the Sheraton Great Wall, which was offered at $100 down from $330 normal rate (I like my comforts when so far from home), but it was full. So I stayed at the International, which is also a 5-star hotel and the special rate was $63. The view from the ceiling-to-floor window was very good towards the main road Jianguomenwai-Dajie, but unfortunately it could not be opened and the air conditioning didn't do much.
Prices quoted are per (twin) room, not per person, so people sharing save even more!
The Harmony is less flash, but only $35.

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