Rescue
Measures And Care For Precocial Chicks
(ducks, geese,
quail, pheasants, plovers, killdeer, small shore birds, etc)
While not in the
general scope of this web site, many visitors come here for
information on these species. Having done a few searches on the
web myself for such information, I was disappointed by the
results. I thought it might be a good idea to offer what little I
do know about these birds to help those in need. Please realize
that more research will be necessary on your part if you are
forced to care for a Precocial chick.
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1- Basic Habits
The first thing to
be aware of is that Precocial chicks hatch with the ability to
walk and feed themselves, and they will follow their mothers to
the best feeding areas or safety zones. Once all the chicks have
hatched, the nest is usually abandoned, and the whole family
roams their environment.
Parents will often
leave the young while they search out more distant areas for
food. Many chicks are left separately (all alone) to decrease the
risk of predation on the whole clutch. This is generally not true
for "common" duck species, which often bring together
several clutches, to which the mothers of those young take turns
babysitting. But sometimes even ducklings are temporarily left
alone, or become separated from the group by accident.
2-
Re-acquainting A Lost Chick With its Parent
This brings us to
the first point, which is that Precocial chicks should not be
immediately rescued if spotted alone or without a parent. To
determine whether a chick actually needs rescuing, it (they) must
be observed from as great a distance as possible. Using
binoculars is recommended. Constant surveillance is required for
at least 2-3 hours. No breaks should be permitted while watching
the chick, since the mother may return and leave again while you
are not watching. If you can see or hear the mother, but she does
not make any attempts to return to the chick, you may be standing
too close for her comfort. Often, Precocial chicks do not chirp
(peep) for their mothers, but wait silently for their mothers to
call them. She will not do this unless she feels the coast is
clear.
If after 2-3 hours
or so the mother has truly not returned, the next stage would be
for you to find her. Sometimes the whole family has wandered so
far off that the original location of any lost chick is out of
the mother's range. If a potential mother or family is located
some distance from the original spot, there are 2 ways to try to
reacquaint them.
The preferred
method is to carefully 'coral' the mother toward the chick.
Simply walk to a position that leaves the mother between you and
the lost chick, and slowly walk in such a fashion that she
retreats in a direction toward the chick. Once they are in visual
contact, back off slowly. Observe to see whether the mother
accepts the chick or not.
The second method
would be to bring the chick closer to the mother. Some corralling
will still be necessary, since the mother will not permit you to
come too close.
A few points about
such family re-introductions.
Adoption
by a bird other than the mother does occasionally happen,
and is good. However, sometimes a non-parent will
vigorously reject the newcomer, even to the point of
attacks. Caution must be observed whenever a chick meets
an adult.
Some
plovers and killdeer, while running away from you,
perform the customary broken wing act. One wing will seem
to be injured and hang loosely, or flutter irregularly
while she runs. This is an instinctive strategy designed
to focus a predator's attention on the mother, and away
from the chicks. Once she has attracted the predator far
enough, she will fly back to her young. This is normal
behavior. Do not believe that she is actually injured.
3- Rescuing A
Truly Abandoned Chick
If after all this,
you simply cannot find a parent for the chick, then a rescue may
be attempted. Check the hyperlink at the bottom of this page for
a professional rehabilitator in your area.
If you are forced
to care for the bird for any amount of time, know that in some
ways, they can be more difficult to raise than songbirds. Though
they are mobile and self-feeding, other factors such as
imprinting, heat, lighting and an appropriate diet are vital
concerns.
4- Imprinting
This group is much
more prone to imprinting than songbirds appear to be. Every
attempt must be made to locate a same-species mother because of
this (preferably its own mother of course). If you find that you
have no choice but to raise a Precocial chick yourself, using a
'dummy' mother (a puppet fashioned to resemble an adult) should
be tried. This 'dummy' mother should be used to feed or tend the
chick, keeping yourself as much as possible out of view. Do not
talk or make any vocalizations while using the puppet. The puppet
should be used until the bird is released. It should also be left
with the bird at night.
Chicks that are
raised with siblings or others of their own kind are somewhat
less likely to be imprinted. The use of the 'dummy' mother is
still recommended however.
For a slightly
more detailed explanation of imprinting, please check out the
first few paragraphs of my "Imprinting" essay.
5- Diet,
Lighting, And Water
I can make no
specific recommendations about recipes for any of these species,
but generally speaking whatever the adults eat, the chicks will
eat. Food should be sprinkled on the floor of their area, but not
in the area where they sleep. Food should be left no longer than
half a day before being cleaned up and replaced.
Suggested Diets
| Ducklings and
goslings can be fed diced vegetables, and some
aquatic vegetation such as duckweed and bladderworts.
Foods that float in water may be added to their water
bowl to stimulate 'dabbling'. Clean the water bowl 2-3
times a day. (see notes on water right below this table) |
| |
| Quail and pheasant
will eat seed, small insects, and grubs. 'Scratch'
feed, obtainable from agricultural supply stores may be
used, but since it is not designed for their nutritional
requirements, it should be heavily supplemented with more
natural foods. |
| |
| Plovers, killdeer,
and other small shore birds eat small insects,
larvae, and crustaceans. This group can be the most
difficult to find alternative foods for. Freeze dried
insects and larvae can be used. (check the pet store) The
crustacean component of the diet should also be supplied.
Freshwater crustaceans such as crayfish may be used, but
must be chopped, shell and all, to very tiny pieces, and
then strained through a tiny sieve, to make sure the bird
can't choke on them. A blender can be used. Fresh or
freeze dried Daphnia or Gammarus
can also be used. Snails are not recommended because
of their high disease transmission risk. The crustacean
component should fill about 1/3 of the regular diet.
N.B.- due to other
interests of mine, I am able to offer tips to those
willing to do some extra work finding the appropriate
live foods for plovers and other shore birds. Send an
emailfor details.)
|
An often unknown
fact is that Precocial young need bright full-spectrum light to
stimulate them to eat. This can easily be furnished by placing
the birds in a very sunny room. In a pinch, bright artificial
lighting can be used, but these generally lack the spectrum and
brightness necessary for the chicks. In any case, make sure that
the chicks are able to escape the brightness and heat when
necessary by providing a shelter or unlit area they can wander
to.
Unlike nestling
songbirds, Precocial chicks do require access to drinking water.
Every care must be taken that the birds cannot walk into the
water, since this will wet their down and disturb its insulating
properties. Even slight wetting can be fatal, and this goes for
ducklings and goslings as well as the others. (ducklings and
goslings are kept dry and buoyant by their mother's preening)
Probably the best method for providing drinking water is to place
a shallow bowl on a book high enough to prevent them from
stepping up into the bowl. Make sure the bowl and book are
stable, and cannot be spilled onto the chick or floor.
6- Housing
A double box
system would seem the best setup in my mind. Use a cardboard box
with dimensions of about 1' long x 1 1/2' wide x 1 1/2' high,
placed on its side within another box at least double the size. A
heating pad should be placed under the smaller box, set to its
lowest setting. (Set to medium if chick seems cold) The floor of
the smaller box should be covered first with a folded towel, and
then with a thick layer of old t-shirts or paper towels. Make
sure the chick cannot step directly onto the heating pad. This
whole box should be covered with a thick towel, leaving only the
smallest opening at one end so the chick can enter and exit
easily.
The remaining
flooring of the second bigger box should also be softened with
flattened t-shirts or paper towels, but the chick should be able
to walk on this surface. This area can be used for feeding if
cleaned daily. If the bird is fed elsewhere, the smaller box must
follow so that the bird always has access to it.
During the night
it is a good idea to cover the whole 2-box setup with a light
cloth, to prevent drafts. Leave at least an inch open on one of
the long sides of the top to provide ventilation.
7- Heat
This is where it
gets real complicated. Some Precocial species require contact
heat to remain in good health. In nature, this is furnished by
the mother directly when sitting on the brood, or by the other
chicks when she is not around. Without this supplemental contact
heat, many chicks are unable to keep themselves warm when
resting, and eventually die from resultant complications.
I am sure that
quail and pheasants require contact heat. I believe
(but I'm not positive) that plovers, killdeer and other small
shore birds also require contact heat. I have no clue whether or
not ducklings and goslings need it.
Chicks raised with
siblings or others of their own kind, are usually safe in this
respect.
I do not know
exact methods of providing contact heat safely, nor do I know the
exact temperatures needed by these species. I only know that they
do need it. I can offer one strategy though, but it is not a
perfect one. Inside the small 'sleeping' box (as described in
'Housing' above) hang a feather duster so that it just reaches
the bottom. This will create a heat sink that the bird can enter
and exit when necessary. It must be feathers, not wool or
whatever. This is another reason that the sleeping box should
always be available to the chick.
8- Release
Once the Precocial
chick has fully fledged, then standard release rules apply. (see
the 'Release' page for details) The fledgling should
be kept for at least 2-4 weeks before being released into a
suitable habitat. Using or building a makeshift enclosure is
recommended. A small kiddy pool may be introduced for ducks and
geese. Drinking water should be freely available. Food should
also be offered frequently. Some species roost in depressions in
the ground, while a few prefer an elevated shelf. Some very few
may even prefer some kind of box to sleep in.
Ducks, geese, and
I think quail can be released into areas known to already contain
others of their own kind. If lucky, they may join a local group.
Other species tend to be more solitary, but the presence of
others of their species assures you that the habitat can sustain
them. You should return daily to verify that the bird is coping
well, eating, etc. Return the bird to his pen only if he is
having an unusually hard time adapting to the wild. Allow him to
recuperate for a couple of days, and try again. If you are
fortunate enough to live immediately beside the appropriate
habitat (i.e. you live on a lakeside and are raising a duckling)
feel free to allow the bird to return to his pen at night until
you are sure that he is capable of surviving on his own.
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This is all the
information I can offer at this time. I will update the page if I
find out more. Any insights gladly welcomed.
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This website is not intended
to replace the expert care that is only available by professional
rehabilitators. The use of this website is only intended for
those where the option of bringing an orphaned bird to a
rehabilitator is not possible. By raising a wild bird yourself,
you greatly diminish it's chances for survival. Please check this
link for a rehabilitation center in your community:
http://www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/contact.htm. If none are listed
near you, call a local animal shelter, veterinarian, or wildlife
office/agent for information on local rescue centers. Thank you.
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Last updated:05/10/2006