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Can you tell me more sbout tippet and how it is
used and what function it serves?I don't mean to sound dumb, but
I honestly do not know and would like to find out more of this
material. Thanks so much,
Hi, below I have added a small URL wich shows
the outfit named and assembled. The tippet is the last part of
the fly line (line and leader+tippet) tied to the fly. It is
normally a level nylon line, eventually like silicone/teflone
treated like Stroft or whatever make or fluorocarbon. Its
diametre is often depending on the size of the fly used and what
fish you are fishing for. Fluorocarbon is used in very clear
waters. It is also the part you change when you change to a
different size of fly, or when it has become short after many fly
changes or wear.
Normally the the diametre is measured in inches
or millimetres or in braking strain as the exemples: 6x is about
0.14 m.m. 5x is about 0.16 m.m. 4x is about 0.18 m.m. and 3x is
0.21 m.m. etc. For all knots, please see the URL with the outfits
etc. here: http://www.flyfield.com/davetips.htm Hope this helps a
bit.
Tight Lines.
CAN YOU OFFER ANY INFORMATION ABOUT FLY FISHING
IN DENMARK? ( I'm from the states and I'm traveling to Denmark in
April)
Hi J, fly fishing is most certainly possible
there in slow flowing
rivers for both brown trout and grayling. Also
the coast fishing for sea trout can be worth while. I'll try to
find a contact for you.
Tight Lines.
WOULD LIKE TO KNOW SOMETHING ABOUT FISHING AND
FISHING TECHNIQUES IN SWEDEN, FOR PIKE INCLUDING FLY
FISHING?
Hi A, nice to hear from you and, - as you so apt
put it, the pike fishing i Sweden is often performed with crude
fishing gear. But something that has developed gradually is the
fishing for pike with fly gear. Normally a 9-10 feet rod for the
#6-7 intermediate line does the trick. With flies about 10 cm
long and dressed in tinsel and
flaschabou draping like a long skirt tied in on
the middle of the hook shank. Blue/silver and Brown/silver are
very effective colors. Size #2.0 hook straight eye, long shank.
The fly below is a Brown/Silver variant on the Blue/Silver
"Lima-Pelle" from Finland, also very effective in
Sweden.
In the area you ask about there should be good
pike waters and coarse angling in Göta Canal. However the
sport fishing area chairman is S. D. and he certainly can help
you with more waters.
For many though, lake Sommen (specimen charr)
and lake Vättern (landlocked Atlantic salmon and brown
trout, charr and grayling) are most interesting in this area
together with lake Roxen, which often produces good fishing for
zander. But there are also some streams around Rimforsa and Kisa.
But you have to be a bit more specific for more
details.
Hope this helped a little.
Regards.
IS THERE A WAY TO FISH WITH MORE THAN ONE FLY
TIED TO THE LEADER?
Hi Mr D,
for what I know, the Aussies and NZ-fly
fishermen use the method of
tying the dropper to the hook bend on the fly
initially tied on the leader. In that way the flies can be tied
rather close to each other and do not tangle easily.
In UK and other European countries they use the
method of tying one, two or more flies to the leader. Nylon is
tied along the leader with for ex. surgeons knots which are
easily tied to the leader perhaps some 30-50 cm apart and which
can be trimmed as short as one wants it for the flies to be tied
to it along the leader.
Hope this helped a little
I KNOW THAT THERE ARE THOUSANDS OF LAKES AND
RIVERS THERE, SO I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW SOMETHING ABOUT FISHING
THERE. IS THE FISHING FREE, WHAT KIND OF FISH CAN YOU FIND, WHAT
MINIMAL EQUIPMENT DO YOU NEED?
Hi T,
Certainly you can fish along the trail, but you
would need fishing permits. As the local fishing permits often
have different prices the best solution is to buy all the permits
together with a map over the area before you go fishing. For a
shorter period this shouldn't be too expensive.
I think that we could also be of service if you
just fax my former office with your itinerary so they can help
you getting in touch with those in charge of the fishing
permits.
For fly fishing I would suggest a rod #4-5 9
foot and four-piece and a WF6F-line to overload the rod a little
for mastering the wind that sometimes occur. But if you are an
experienced fly fisherman I would suggest the opposite approach
and choose the WF # 4 line instead. Because a skilled fisherman
can create higher line speed with narrower loops and a thinner
line cuts through the wind better.
Good flies would be normal wetflys and nymphs.
The caddis is a winner and also Klinkhamer variants. But do try
the odd Montana also - it is strange but the fish sometimes take
that also. Suppose it's because black and red are good colors in
Lappish waters. I also like Double Legs and Tjuonna Black,
especially for grayling.
Although you naturally could use just a combo
rod or a spinning outfit, the multi part fly rod is my
favorite.
The fish you would catch are grayling, charr,
and brown trout. (But there are also perch and northern pike and
at some places you could find real specimen roach)
Hope this helped a little.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ON FLOAT TUBES AND BELLY
BOATS?
Hi J,
yes I'm familiar with float tubes and I like the
round ones better.
Although the U-boats are easier to get into,
they do tend to float lower so my fly west gets wet a lot.
Maneuvering the round one is also easier I think - I mean you get
around quicker for aiming the cast in a new direction. Well
that´s my thoughts anyway. Cheers.
HI, DON'T YOU THINK THAT THE MODERN MATERIALS IN
FLY RODS MAKE THE DIFFERENCES SMALLER BETWEEN FLY RODS OF
DIFFERENT MAKERS ETC?
Hi Mr P,
You are quite right I think in that the
difference is hardly possible to notice between good quality
rods, and also in that the graphite probably by far is the best
material yet for blanks. I have tried bamboo like in split cane
rods, glass fiber, graphite in different modulus and tapers and
also boron, together with various other designs with polished
epoxy covered blanks and mate finished lighter designs. And then
there are those that have a web of hoop strengthening fibers in
criss-cross layers like in Diamondback from US and Tri Cast from
UK.
And all this confirms what you say. The
sensitivity and performance in our modern rods is
outstanding.
But for me practicing fly fishing I sometimes
find the visual means of detecting the bite from fish more
exiting, and therefore I'm not so much relying on to feeling the
bite. The other thing - as I mentioned previously - is the need
for me to have the possibility to "overload" the rod without the
loss of power in casting and sometimes perhaps also to abruptly
change the direction in the cast. I have felt it easier to do
this with fly rods built in more pieces that two. I mean, like
the golf club you would need a blank that withstrains the
torsion/twisting in the tube of the blank to be able to direct
the ball, and I feel it to be a little similar in my case. The
true tracking ability and hoop strength together with a good
taper are the most important factors for me. But again I agree
with you: to feel the bite or just trout grabbing the fly is
exquisite.
Thanks also for your kind reply earlier
on.
Ps. By the way. I really have tried to insert
small evenly spaced,
tapered plugs in a graphite blank-and it made
big difference. But as You so aptly noted. It also got a little
too heavy for my liking. But the casting performance I really
liked.
HI, MY NAME IS A, AND I'M INTERESTED IN FLY FISHING. HOWEVER I KNOW ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ABOUT IT.
Hi A,
I'll come back to you with some more, perhaps closer by to you,
but for short I'll give a rough (perhaps awkward but short)
outline on the
practice.
So here if you like I have made some small comments on fly
fishing:
Fly fishing is mainly done with a fly rod and line. The casting
motion
differs from bait casting or whatever by the line being the
weight
instead of something concentrated to a lure or bait in the end of
a
line. This means that the line has to be whipped forward and
backward
to gain speed to ultimately stretch out and deliver the fly out
on or
in the water.
This practice, slinging the line, is best illustrated by
tying a yarn to a stick and by whipping that you get the idea.
One of
the secrets in succeeding is by creating a loop on the line.
(I have an animated gif on my index page which illustrates the
moves)
For delivering the fly out on the water, you need a
softer and thinner
tip (called the leader) for dampening the velocity of the fly. (A
fly
tied directly to the fly line would be knocking the fish, if
not
shocking..:~)
The leader is often tapered similar to the fly line tip and can
go down in diameter as far as to .10mm.
Normally you use a #4 - 9 foot rod for a Weight
Forward line #5, but
for beginning the practice I would suggest somewhat heavier line.
This
quicker gives the feel of the timing.
For flies there are dries, wets, nymphs, streamers,
lures etc. They are manmade copies of ants, beetles, may flies,
caddis flies, chironomids
and other insects. They can also imitate fish like the sculpin
etc.
For imitating hatching may flies you often let the
fly lie still on the water. The caddis on the other hand can be
twitched now and then.
Streamers that imitate small fish, can be fished in jerking
motions or
being pulled continuously with both hands and the rod tucked
under your
one arm. A dragon fly nymph like the Muddler minnow
(also a fish
imitation-the muddler) can be fished with pulsating jerks
etc...
The fly line is only some 25 yards so you need a
backing. This all is
stored on the fly reel. Often a single action reel and
nowadays
preferably quiet.
Of course there are zillion other things like in
all practice, but I
hope this will give you a hint.
Cheers
Harry Salmgren
YOUR QUESTION STILL ISN'T ANSWERED?
E-mail: Harry
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