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You are currently in the News Archive
3-26-02 I've officially closed the old gbalight.com forum. Thanks to everyone who signed up and participated while it lasted :)
Since I've de-activated the gbalight.com forum, I've now set up a permanent link to the gbacentral handheld modification forum. It has a much larger user base and will hopefully meet everyone's needs for GBA and GBA accessory modifications.
3-25-02 Well guys, it definitely looks like I'm going to be shutting down the ezboard. It's been trouble since day 1 (administrative problems, and far too many unacceptable pop-ups and advertising).
Most likely I'll be putting up a permanent link to the gbacentral boards where there is a growing community of like minded people who continually work on GBA modifications. This link should be worked into the site over the next day or two, but for now just click here to check it out.
3-25-02 If you frequent the bulletin board here at gbalight.com, please take the poll that will decide whether or not the board shuts down. Thanks!
3-21-02 2 WB LED lightshield (ver. 3) mod has been added to the submissions section, Thanks a lot Jeff!
3-17-02 I've been speaking to an individual lately who's company has been working on a prototype of an anti-glare product for the GBA. Here's a short comment by the author who has wished to remain anonymous.
I know it's not much to go on, but I'll post any new info as soon as it becomes available.
3-11-02 Modification Madness guide added! Check it out if you're confused by all of the different mods, or if you'd like to see a full comparison shot of every mod in action :)
Also, recently a reader submitted a couple pictures of a supposed upcoming GBA "ultra". He found the pictures on a Japanese website somewhere (he didn't provide a link). Personally, I don't know what to make of them...are they real or are they "photoshop"? You decide.
3-9-02 Version 3 light shield "hack" and pictures added!
Also, Special Bulletin: The original pelican LS mod has been updated to include the "world's brightest" LED!
Why is this of importance? for 2 great reasons: 1. when you mod a version 1 LS with a WB LED you can play GBC/GB games with the dimmer the whole way up!, and 2. The WB LED does not have the "halo" effect that has plagued the radioshack LED since the beginning. The WB LED is a much cleaner, whiter LED than the radioshack one as well :)
3-7-02 First, let me give everyone a refresher course on the GBA and the difference between playing a GBA(new, small cartridges) game or a GBC/GB(old cartridges that are about twice the size of current GBA games) game: The pelican LS runs off of the power that is generated from the GBA's link port. When playing a GBA game, the link port voltage is ~3.1v. When playing a GBC/GB game, the link port voltage jumps up to ~5v. So when modifying a light accessory that runs off of the link port, you must take this factor into consideration so that you can plan ahead, and avoid burning up your bulb or LED.
Now, the update on the new LS "hack": there will be 2 ways to accomplish this hack. The first one covered here is the quickest, easiest way to do it, but you should not use the modded LS with GBC or GB games (only the new GBA games) because the voltage and current are much higher when the GBA switches into GBC mode. To clarify: only do the mod this way if you only want to play GBA games when using the LS, or you will damage the LED.
There is another way to accomplish this modification so that you can safely play GBC or GBA games, but it is a little more complicated. Eventually I'll put up a walkthrough on how to do this, but in the meantime (for the hardcore modders out there), I'll explain the basic procedure: Instead of just "bridging the gap" as is shown in the original hack, you must isolate the potentiometer(dimmer switch) from the circuit by cutting the copper runs that connect it to the circuit. Basically instead of just bridging the gap with a dab of solder, you are bridging the the gap with the potentiometer which in turn gives you control over the current that is being sent to the LED. This will allow you to safely play GBC or GB games. Remember, I will put up pictures and complete instructions on this procedure eventually.
3-6-02 WARNING! In all the excitement with this new experiment I failed to mention that at this point, the modification will not work with GBC games(the current and voltage rise too much when running the old games)! Hang in there though, I'm working on a fix!
3-6-02 The version 3 Light shield voltage hack is now online!
Check it out here :)
3-5-02 BIG NEWS everyone :) I finally bought one of the new light shields (version 3 -incandescent bulb, limited voltage) to experiment with and have created yet another mod!! This one uses the limited voltage LS and the world's brightest LED. It WAY outshines the old radioshack/LS mod and gives almost the exact same results as the cyclops (with a LOT less effort on the "modding" end of things I might add!)
I'm going to be taking pictures of it in operation and will be adding them either later tonight or tomorrow. And of course I'll post the details of the process :)
For the "hardcore" modders out there, here's the main gist of what I've done:
I've "hacked" the circuit of the limited voltage LS so that instead of putting out 2.8v it now puts out 3.29v, and this voltage is right off of the link port! Drop in a world's brightest LED, sand the tip of it with steel wool so that it diffuses properly and you end up with an extremely awesome light! Stay tuned!
3-5-02 Ok, I think the e-mail problem has been resolved now. If you mail me and don't receive a response in at least a day, please mail me at the hotmail account. Thanks!
3-4-02 My ISP is currently having e-mail problems so I can send but can't receive mail :( If you've mailed me recently, please resend to gbalight@hotmail.com. Sorry for the inconvenience. I'll post an update as soon as the problem is resolved.
3-2-02 After opening another wormlight today, I've discovered that nyko used at least 2 different types of boards in these lights. Click here to see a comparison picture.
Also, make sure you don't cut too much of the circuit board in step 7 of the Cyclops walkthrough, or you will lose link port pass-through ability :(
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