|
Phone/Fax: (02) 6553 1012 email: clement@tpg.com.au
GO TO AUSTRALIAN NATIVE ORCHID CULTURE DENDROBIUM AND SARCOCHILUS
PHALAENOPSIS CULTURE
CATTLEYA CULTURE
SOFTCANE (NOBILE TYPE) DENDROBIUMS
PAPHIOPEDILUM (SLIPPER ORCHIDS) CULTURE
CYMBIDIUM CULTURE
Cymbidiums are what most people first think of as orchids. This genus is
easy to grow and very popular in cooler, temperate climates of New South
Wales and the southern states.
SHADE is necessary from hot sun. A shade or bush house covered with 50%
shade is ideal. Alternatively, dappled shade from a tree or other plants
will suffice. Cymbidiums need plenty of filtered sun to flower well. These
orchids will grow well, but rarely flower in full shade.
TEMPERATURE. Happy to grow in a wide range of temperatures, cymbidiums
will tolerate light frost as long as buds are protected. At the other end
of the scale, very hot days are tolerated but plants will benefit from a
substantial overnight drop in temperature.
WATERING. Cymbidiums like to stay damp but not wet. To achieve this plants
may need to be watered daily during hot, dry weather. Watering in the late
afternoon/ evening will also help chill the plants. In winter, watering
weekly should suffice.
COMPOST needs to be well aerated and free draining, but still remain damp
for a reasonable period. Most cymbidium compost available from specialist
nurseries is ideal, beware of generic brands from supermarkets. These are
often of inferior quality. A satisfactory mix would be- 4 parts composted
pine bark, 1 part Rice Hulls, 1 part coarse river sand or styrene plus
lime plus fertiliser to suit.
REPOTTING. Cymbidiums are best repotted during the cooler months, or if
they are flowering, as soon as possible after flowering. To avoid stress
to the plants, do not repot during summer. If dividing plants, make sure
at least 3 or 4 bulbs are left together. Never reuse compost, and
sterilise tools and preused pots with bleach or a sugar soap concentrate.
After dividing, place plants in a shady area for a few weeks and water
sparingly.
FERTILIZER. Most water-soluble fertilisers are satisfactory or a quality
slow release product will suffice. Use fertiliser recommended for
flowering plants.
PESTS AND DISEASE. Red spider or spidermite is troublesome in summer,
especially in warmer climates. Control with Kelthane miticide, Pest Oil or
predatory mites. Scale is easily controlled by Rogor, Malascale or Pest
Oil. Always use at manufacturers recommended levels, if in doubt seek
advice from a nursery or experienced grower.
AUSTRALIAN NATIVE ORCHID CULTURE
DENDROBIUM AND SARCOCHILUS
The popularity of Australian Native Orchids has grown dramatically in
recent years. New cultivars have provided growers with a broader range of
colours and styles that are easy to grow and flower.
ENVIRONMENT. Found growing wild in most areas on the east coast of
Australia it is easy to provide suitable conditions in this area.
Dendrobiums prefer bright filtered light, 50%-70% shadecloth is ideal or a
tree or similar screen allowing dappled sunlight is perfect. Sarcochilus
are usually found in heavier shade areas, about 90% shade and somewhat
higher humidity than dendrobiums is beneficial.
TEMPERATURE. New South Wales coastal temperatures are OK, good air
movement is important, especially during very hot or cold periods so
natural airflow should not be impeded. Sarcochilus enjoy temperatures up
to 30 degrees, over this try to minimise maximum temperatures, by
providing more shade or air movement.
WATERING. Perfect drainage is very important; many Australian Native
Orchids grow on trees and dry off quickly after rain. Water thoroughly
then allow plants to dry out completely before rewatering. Water regularly
in summer, sparingly in winter. If you receive regular winter rain, a
solid roof over plants may be necessary to control watering in cold
weather.
COMPOST must be free draining. A coarse bark mix is ideal, perhaps add 20%
gravel or similar if you wish. As a guide, use 10mm bark in 100mm pots,
15mm bark in 150mm pots and 20mm bark in 200mm pots or bigger. If
established in the garden, a gravel bed under the plant will help with
drainage, or attach firmly to a tree or rock and tie a pad of coconut
fibre or similar over the root mass.
REPOTTING. Dendrobiums are best done soon after flowering, at the
beginning of the growing season. We leave Sarcochilus till March/April
after the worst of the hot weather has past. Sarc's grow all year, but
experience most growth in this area during Autumn/ winter. Ensure pots
have adequate drainage and are just big enough to contain the root system
of the plant to be potted.
FERTILISE regularly, especially during the growing season, using a
fertiliser for flowering plants, low in nitrogen and high in potassium.
PESTS AND DISEASE. Generally hardy and resilient, Australian Native
Dendrobiums and Sarcochilus can sometimes be attacked by scale, aphid or
spidermite. Treat with a recommended insecticide such as Diazinon or Pest
Oil. Fungal infections are rare provided good air movement is maintained
during wet weather.
PHALAENOPSIS CULTURE
Phalaenopsis are a group of plants that grow in shady, humid conditions
throughout the Asian tropics and extend into northern Australia. They are
arguably the most popular group of orchids grown in the world today, being
particularly popular throughout the United States and Europe where they
are regarded as one of the easiest orchids to grow indoors.
Temperature and Atmosphere Requirements. Phalaenopsis enjoy relatively
stable temperatures. A minimum temperature of 15 degrees Celsius and a
maximum of 30 degrees is optimal, however plants will tolerate temps of up
to 5 degrees more extreme than this for short periods. Growing these
plants outdoors in New South Wales will require some artificial heating in
the winter and cooling in the summer. However their requirements fall
almost perfectly within the comfort zone we enjoy inside the house.
Phalaenopsis also require medium to high humidity. This can be achieved by
placing the plants in a saucer of gravel, wet the gravel but be sure the
base of the pot is above the water level. As the water evaporates,
adequate humidity will be provided. Alternatively, mist the plants daily.
Light. Phalaenopsis enjoy low light and must be protected from direct,
unfiltered sunlight. Outdoors sufficient shade so that on a sunny day a
barely discernible shadow is cast is ideal. Indoors a brightly-lit room
out of direct sun is suitable.
Watering and Fertilising. One of the secrets of growing Phallies is to
keep the roots just damp but the leaves as dry as possible. This means
that the compost should be allowed to nearly dry out before watering.
After watering dry the leaves off as quickly as possible, especially any
water lying in the crown of the plant where the leaves join. To help this
avoid watering the leaves, or place the plants in a breezy spot for an
hour or two after watering, even removing excess water from the leaves
with a tissue will serve the purpose.
Fertilise with a recommended soluble orchid fertiliser at quarter strength
every watering or at half strength every second watering. HSO 12 is ideal
for all year round use.
Potting, Pests and Diseases. Keep plants in as small a pot as possible, a
few roots growing out of the pot will not harm the plant and is not
necessarily a reason to pot up the plant. Apart from crown rot, which can
be avoided by careful watering, Phalaenopsis can suffer attack from Mealy
Bugs. These appear as small furry white pests, usually under the leaves.
They can be sprayed with Pyrethrum or a chemical insecticide such as
Diazinon, or wet them with equal parts of Methylated spirits and water
using a cotton bud or small cloth.
Phalaenopsis are very rewarding plants to grow and flowers last up to 12
weeks. When flowers have withered, cut the flower stem off between the
third and fourth notch from the plant. The old stem will then shoot and
flower a second time. Mature plants will flower twice each year so
flowering can be achieved for up to half the year. Flowers are available
in white, pink or yellow or with variations of spotting or veining on
these backgrounds.
CATTLEYA CULTURE
Pronounced KAT-lee-uh, this group of orchids originates from a large area
of tropical and sub-tropical America. They occur in many sizes, shapes and
colours but are best known for their large flamboyant bloom. Most grow as
epiphytes, or air plants. They have large pseudobulbs used to store water
and have thick, fleshy roots that have the ability to collect moisture
from the air.
LIGHT is important for good flowering. About 50% is optimal, however if
leaves overheat in summer this may need to be increased to 70%. Leaves
should be medium green colour and pseudobulbs rigid and erect without
staking. Excessive shading will reduce flowering dramatically.
TEMPERATURE should range between a minimum of 5-7 degrees in winter to a
maximum of about 30-35 degrees in summer. I suggest you avoid watering if
the temperature falls below 10 degrees. Small plants need to be protected
from temperature extremes. High day temperatures, up to 35 degrees can be
tolerated if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased.
WATER can be provided in two ways, in the pot by watering and in the air
by humidity. For a plant growing in good open media, watering twice each
week in summer and once every two weeks in winter is sufficient. In summer
avoid watering during the heat of the day, in winter only water on a
bright sunny morning. The root system on these plants can easily be damage
by excess water. If in doubt, defer watering.
HUMIDITY is important to Cattleyas, as roots prefer to grow in humid air
rather than to be wet. Humidity needs to range from 50% to 80%, about 60%
is ideal. In winter watering can be delayed by wetting the greenhouse
floor and circulating air around the plants. This technique can also help
to cool the plants in summer. If you live in a cool area, it may be
necessary to grow your cattleyas under a solid cover so watering can be
controlled during winter.FERTILISE with a balanced NPK (blossom booster)
is ideal, apply in the water every second watering.
POTS should be shallow, ie no deeper than they are wide and should have
plenty of holes to allow perfect drainage.MEDIA needs to be coarse and
long lasting. Quality treated pine bark is most popular. As a guide use
10mm grade in 100mm pots, 15mm in 150mm pots and 20mm in 200mm pots or
larger.
PESTS AND DISEASES. Cattleyas, apart from root rot caused by overwatering,
can be attacked by pests such as scaly and mealy bug. This is easily
controlled by Diazinon or Pest Oil. Slugs and snails love fresh root tips.
Hanging plants or growing on mesh benches can help, but snail bait may be
necessary.
SOFTCANE (NOBILE TYPE) DENDROBIUMS
Softcane, or Nobile type Dendrobiums grow naturally in Northern India &
Thailand at elevations up to 1500 metres in the foothills of the Himalayan
Mountains.
TEMPERATURE. These species and their hybrids are hardy plants that will
tolerate temperatures from 3 degrees centigrade to temperatures in the
high thirties.
WATER & FERTILISER. To grow softcane dendrobiums well, different seasonal
treatment is required. After flowering in October increase watering &
gradually increase fertiliser. Soluble ‘flower-booster’ fertiliser at
recommended strength is preferred. By November when growths are 100mm or
higher, water plants every second day and include fertiliser at least once
per week. Maintain this treatment until new growths are nearly mature, say
February or March. Reduce water & fertiliser so that by April, plants are
receiving no nitrogen fertiliser at all. Water sparingly, just enough to
prevent bulbs from shrivelling, until plants flower in Spring.
MEDIUM. Plants should be grown in well drained medium in pots as small as
possible. Cover the plants with 30-50% shade in Summer to prevent burn to
new growths, however plants will benefit from full or near full sun during
Winter.
Softcane dendrobiums are easy orchids to grow provided they are given
plenty of water & fertiliser in Summer, with no fertiliser, little water &
plenty of light during Winter.
PAPHIOPEDILUM (SLIPPER ORCHIDS) CULTURE
Paphiopedilums, more commonly known as Slipper Orchids, are shade loving
plants from areas throughout Asia where they usually grow amongst rocks,
moss and leaf litter in damp but well drained positions. Blooms are long
lasting and are available in a range of colours. There are three main
styles of flowers, popular amongst growers. These are the complex hybrids,
which have large round flowers with broad segments and bloom during the
winter. The second group is the maudiae types, which have attractive
tessellated leaves and smaller flowers. The third group is the
multiflorals, sometimes with 4 or 5 flowers on a stem. They have long
strap like green leaves and are the slowest to grow.
TEMPERATURE AND LIGHT. Protection from frosts is necessary, especially for
the maudiae and multifloral types; otherwise slippers are tolerant of a
broad range of temperatures. Slippers thrive in conditions soft ferns such
as maidenhair enjoy.
WATERING AND FERTILISING. Watering should be sufficient to keep the root
system just damp. Short dry periods are OK but try to avoid over watering.
As a guide, water every second day in summer and every 5-7 days in winter,
depending on the weather of course. It is best to water during the morning
in winter and evenings during summer. Include a balanced (flowering
formula) fertiliser into the water at half the recommended strength, every
second watering.
POTTING. A standard pot just big enough to contain the root system is
adequate. Use a treated bark media that is coarse enough to allow good
drainage but still remain damp for a few days. As a guide, in a 150mm pot
use 10-15mm bark.
PESTS AND DISEASES. Slippers appear resistant to orchid virus. Fungus can
develop on the leaves or in the leaf axils, usually due to overwatering.
Mealy bug can sometimes attack leaves and roots but is easily controlled
with Diazinon or similar. These plants are relatively pest free.
Paphiopedilums are attractive plants with curious but attractive flowers.
They are very rewarding to grow in a shady, moist environment.
Notes are intended as a guide only. For further information contact the
Nursery. Societies are welcome to reproduce these notes, provided suitable
acknowledgment is given.
© Copyright Tinonee Orchids 2003
|
