Around the World with Hardy(T)

Albania

When I set foot on Albanian soil for the first time on 3rd September, I achieved an ambition that I'd held since my teenage years, when my school chum Robert James and I used to listen to Radio Tirana on the shortwave radio! Since then I had been subsequently inspired by David Twydell's book Albania FC in which he relates a particularly dedicated 'groundhopping' adventure. So, you see, I simply had to go.

The magnificent 100 lekë note shows two proud Albanian comrades pointing towards a chemical plant billowing out clouds of toxic smoke

We arrived on the ferry from Corfu, Greece and spent just over a week trekking through the breathtaking Pindos Mountains in Albania's southern region. On the trek we passed through many villages where we were overwhelmed by the friendliness and generosity of the local people. We also witnessed at first hand how the Albanians were adapting to life after Enver Hoxha. Our visit, of course, took place before the country sadly descended into gun-toting anarchy in 1997.

After the trek, we headed north to see the citadel of Berat (in darkness, it has to be said!) and the Byzantine ruins of Appolonia and Butrint. After a final night in the seaside 'resort' of Sarander, we headed back across to Corfu, Greece.

Many thanks must go to our excellent guides, Phil Bowen of Exodus and our Albanian guide, the lovely Matilda Andoni, who I believe is now studying at some British university or other.