Around the World with Hardy(T)Around the World with Hardy(T)After the trek we head north back up the Vjore valley and towards the city of Berat. The journey provides a stark contrast with the spectacular mountain scenery we've seen to date. We're now travelling through the Albanian oilfields and it's painfully obvious that scant consideration has been given to environmental concerns. Abandoned oil derricks litter the countryside and the sharp smell of petroleum is ever-present. Another difference from further south is the increasing number of mosques. Albania is officially a Muslim country and we are moving from the Greek Orthodox stronghold of the the south to the more Muslim north.
Unfortunately it's very late by the time we get to Berat, and our scheduled tour of the citadel area takes place in near darkness. Somewhat unwisely, we walk around the unlit, narrow streets of Berat and, to make things worse, Matilda doesn't know her way round. Some kids offer to "help" but my suspicions are aroused as they try to take us further into the maze of backstreets. Eventually the word "pirates" shakes Matilda out of her trusting complacency and we manage to extricate ourselves from a potentially dangerous situation. What a contrast with the friendliness and safety of the rural villages. My bad impression of Berat is finally compounded by the worst meal I think I've ever had back at a restaurant in the city later that evening.
The next day we head out of Beat and towards the coast where we are planning to visit the ruins at Appolonia. On the way out we notice a legacy of the Hoxha years: the word E N V E R is carved into the side of a hill just outside Berat. Apparently the locals don't know how to get rid of it - my suggestion of adding the letters J O H N D in front isn't appreciated.
We're
soon in the ancient port of Appolonia, site of some of Pompey's battles
with Alexander the Great. Play up Pompey!
It's a port, even though it's several km from the sea - an earthquake apparently
changed the sea level and diverted the route by which the Vjore makes its
way to the sea, thus rendering Appolonia a bit useless as ports go. The
ruins - Byzantine and Roman - are a bit over-restored, in my opinion - there's
more 20th century concrete than original stone. The monastery is quite interesting
- although we manage to embarrass Matilda. 
A
lot of the statues have their heads missing and
she is going to great lengths to tell us which of the headless figures are
male and which are female. We come across an obviously male statue which
has been sadly neutered by either vandals or perverts. This obviously leads
to the question: "Now, Matilda, is this one male or female?"
Appolonia is also the setting for my first true Albanian beer - up until
now we've been drinking imported beer. Birra Korça is an excellent
12% Pilsner - not bad for 30 lekës a bottle.
After Appolonia we pass through the
uninspiring industrial city of Vlore, significant only for its naval base
and for being the home of Flamutari, 1991 Albanian League Champions. We
then turn back south and head down the spectacular coast road toward Sarander. It's brown trousers time all the way
as Milko, our excellent driver, negotiates the bus though the twists and
turns of the clifftop road.
Before we reach our overnight stop at Himare we experience some more
of Albanian's unique bureaucracy. Remember previously we'd struggled to
buy postcards in Gjirokäster?
Well, that was repeated in every town we visited, but it was nothing compared
to trying to buy stamps! In 
Permet the problem had been that the post office
was only open about 2 hours a day - one hour for stamps and one hour for
telephones, but there was no way of knowing when each hour occurred! Here
the problem appears to be that I can buy stamps, but I can only send postcards
to Greece or Italy!!! I settle for buying a Greek ice cream instead, hrrrumph.
We also spot some more examples of the way Albania has changed since the
Hoxha days. The coast road overlooks the old submarine base, complete with
its hidden tunnel out to the Adriatic, which is now completely deserted,
and on the beach at Himare, the locals have taken to painting Hoxha's bunkers
with brightly coloured patterns!