Around the World with Hardy(T)

Albania - Sarander

(...Back to Berat)

Our last full day in Albania sees Milko drive us safely down the coast from Himare to Sarander. On the way we see another homage to Hoxha that's going to take a while to get rid of. On the side of a hill a forest has been planted in such a way that the trees on one side spell the word - yes, you've guessed it - "E N V E R", whilst on the other side it says "P A R T Y". I'm sure the Albanians could find a use for the second one? On arrival in Sarander, we discover that it's actually quite a well-to-do - by Albanian standards - seaside resort, and our hotel is quite pleasant, depite the outrageous bedding, which is a kind of cross between Picasso and Playschool.

A scout around Sarander's streets for last minute souvenirs proves somewhat futile. T-shirts in Albania, it would appear, are functional rather than ornamental, so that's out of the question. I end up having to be satisfied with an Albania pennant and a copy of Michel Platini's autobiography - "Jeta Ime Si Nje Ndeshje Futbolli". It's an excellent read, or at least I imagine it will be once I've mastered Albanian. I have more luck with postcards, but unfortunately none with stamps. (This is later remedied at the old communist hotel. Not only do they have stamps, but they have Albanian Euro 96 stamps, and they even offer to post my cards for me! The cards I send to England only take five months to arrive too!)

You know the old cliché - an Englishman gets into a taxi in <insert foreign city> and the driver speaks two words of English: "Bobby" and "Charlton"? Well it actually happened to me in Sarander! I'm trying to get some cash from one of the moneychangers on the main street, when he asks me: "Ing-leeesh?". "Po", I reply in my best Albanian, to which he replies "Kevin Keeee-gan!" (Incidentally, "Kevin KIGAN" (sic) gets a mention in Michel Platini's book. Apparently he's "ndoshta i dyti pas Çarltonit në futbollin anglez". Can't argue with that).

After a hearty meal and a good night's sleep, our last excursion in Albania is to the Roman and Byzantine ruins at Butrint. The ruins are remarkably well preserved, unlike at Appolonia, and include some impressive city walls, churches, baths, pillars and excellent mosaics. Whilst the ruins are indeed both interesting and extensive, it's been a long trip and it's clear that most of our party are keen to just get on the ferry back to Greece! I wile away the morning asking Matilda increasingly irritating questions about Albania under Hoxha:

"Yes, Tony, it was illegal to have a beard."

"Yes, Tony, Hoxha did outlaw homosexuality."

"No, Tony, you weren't allowed to be left-handed! "

"So, Matilda, were left-footed footballers also outlawed and didn't this jeopardise Albania's World Cup chances?"

"Come on, the museum closes in five minutes!"

We finally get back to Sarander, say our "mirupafshims" to Matilda and Milko and set sail for Corfu. The journey is noteworthy for meeting Matilda's father, Pilo Andoni (Partizan Tirana & Albania) and also for Colin and Tony's Fantastic London Underground Trivia Quiz!