The Basic Frog Tank

Sam Forster

The first tank obtained by most individuals is a basic, all glass aquarium identical to those used to maintain fish. Although these tanks are adequate they have a few minor shortcomings which detract from their overall suitability. The most important of these issues is the height. As the name suggest tree frogs are arboreal, and thus spend a great deal of time in aerial positions. In addition a fish tank generally does not provide much room for the creation of interesting and attractive features possible in taller tanks. For these reasons the best tanks are those with a height approximately equal to the width and one and a half times the depth. This shape allows for climbing room for the frogs and plenty of space for decorations.

The major problem with tanks of this shape is access. Obviously easy access to all parts of the tanks is one of the most significant considerations when designing a tank. To avoid this problem the use of screen fronts, glass doors and even cat flats have all been used with success. The choice with regard to which of these methods to use depends primarily on the environment outside the tank. Whichever method is chosen it is important to ensure no small gaps exist as frogs are notorious for their ability to squeeze through even the smallest of gaps.

The next step is water, these frogs generally live in areas of high humidity, and although they will survive in a tank of minimal humidity I prefer to design my tanks with a small amount (5 - 10 cm) of water at the bottom. This satisfies the humidity requirements of the frogs and islands of rocks can be created at each end of the tank to provide sufficient access to land and the creation of a feeding platform. Various people have suggested that frogs kept in this type of setup may drown, however it seems unlikely that a frog, which depends on water for a significant aspect of its life history, would be unable to swim and I have never encountered this situation personally. This said I always ensure there are easily accessible escape routes from the water just to be safe.

In most climates these frogs will require some form of heating in their enclosure. The two most popular ways to provide this are through under tank heat pads and aquarium style heaters. I prefer to use the heaters, as they are generally cheaper and easier to replace if something goes wrong. This is another arguments for using a three-dimensional background, as it provides a location to hide both heater and filter cables.

The easiest and most efficient way to clean a tank like this is to use a small pump, connected to a spray bar. This can be set, through a timer, to come on for a hour a day and rinses everything in the tank, washing all faeces into the water where they are in turn removed by a small aquarium filter. This method also ensures all plant receive a daily watering and thus remain healthy. Using this method I have found the filter needs cleaning fortnightly at which time I also drain approximately one third of the water and replace it with preconditioned, dechlorinated water.

Finally some individuals believe strongly that these frogs do not need full spectrum lighting, however I am yet to be made aware of any research supporting the negative aspect of this lighting and considering the requirements of other species of frogs and the fact it is a natural replication of the frogs environment it seems likely that it would be required. In addition frogs kept under full spectrum lighting seem stronger, more active and generally healthier. This considered I keep all my frogs under full spectrum lighting.