Vasco da Gama - First voyage [1497/8 K ; ٩٠٢/٣ ﻫ]

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From : Vasco da Gama's Journal.[ Portuguese Voyages 1498 - 1663]

  1. Vasco da Gama's Journal -English version
  2. Katika Daftari ya Vasco da Gama - Tafsiri ya Kiswahili

Vasco da Gama bridge, outside Alcochete, Sébutal, Portugal. It is the longest bridge in Europe, with a total length of 17.2 km (10.7 miles). It opened on the 500th anniversary of the discovery by Vasco da Gama of the sea route from Europe to India.

The old town of Alcochete,[see text]known for its salt pans, is located on the River Tagus. Its Arabic name dates back to the 7th.century. It was a royal retreat for Joāo I and Joāo II, and King Manuel was born here in 1469.

Vasco da Gama's Journal -English version.

On Saturday we cast anchor off Mombasa but did not enter the port. No sooner had we been perceived then a 'zavra'[dhow] manned by Moors,came out to us; in front of the city there lay numerous vessels all dresssed in flags. And we, anxious not to be outdone, also dressed our ships, and we actualy surpassed their show, for we wanted in nothing but men, even the few whom we had being very ill. We anchored here with much pleasure, for we confidently hoped that on the following day we might go on land and hear the mass jointly with the Christians reported to live their under their own 'alcaide'[from the Arabic Alkadi, the judge] in a quarter separate from that of the Moors.

The pilots who had come with us told us there resided both Moors and Christians in this city ; that these latter lived apart under their own lords and that on our arrival they would receive us with much honour and take us to their houses. But they said this for a purpose of their own, for it was not true. At midnight there approached us a 'zavra' with about a hundred men all armed with cutlasses (tarcados) and bucklers. When they came to the vessel of the captain-major they attempted to board her, armed as they were, but this was not permitted, only four or five of the most distinguished among them being allowed on board. They remained about a couple of hours, and it seemed to us that they paid us this visit merely to find out whether they might not capture one or other of our vessels.

On Palm Sunday the king of Mombasa sent the captain-major a sheep and large quantities of oranges, lemons and sugar-cane, together with a ring, as a pledge of safety, letting him know that in case of his entering the port he would be supplied with all he stood in need of. The present was conveyed to us by two men, almost white, who said they were Christians, which appeared to be the fact. The captain-major sent the king a string of coral beads as a return present, and let him know that he purposed entering the port on the following day. On the same day the captain-major's vessel was visited by four Moors of distinction.

Two men were sent by the captain-major to the king still further to confirm these peaceful assurances. When these landed they were followed by a crowd as far as the gates of the palace. Before reaching the king they passed through four doors, each guarded by a doorkeeper with a drawn cutlass. The king received them hospitably and ordered that they should be shown over the city. They stopped on their way at the house of two Christian merchants, who showed them a paper (carta), an object of their adoration, which was a sketch of the Holy Ghost (1). When they had seen all, the king sent them back with samples of cloves, pepper, and corn, with which articles he allowed us to load our ships.

On Tuesday, when weighing anchor to enter the port, the captain-major's vessel would not pay off, and struck the vessel which followed astern. We therefore again cast anchor. When the Moors who were in our ship saw that we did not go on, they scrambled into a 'zavra' attached to our stern; whilst the two pilots whom we had brought from Mozambique jumped into the water, and were picked up by the men in the 'zavra'. At night the captain-major questioned two Moors [these were two of the four men who had earlier been captured in Mozambique], by dropping burning oil upon their skin, so that they might confess any treachery intended against us. They said that orders had been given to capture us as soon as we entered the port, and thus to avenge what we had done at Mozambique. And when this torture was being applied a second time, one of the Moors, although his hands were tied, threw himself into the sea, whilst the other did so during the morning watch.

About midnight two 'almadias'(2), with many men in them, approached. The 'almadias' stood off whilst the men entered the water, some swimming in the direction of the Berrio, others in that of the Rafael. Those who swam to the Berrio began to cut the cable. The men on watch thought at first that they were tunny fish, but when they perceived their mistake they shouted to the other vessels. The other swimmers had already got hold of the rigging of the mizzen-mast. Seeing themselves discovered they silently slipped down and fled. These and other wicked tricks were practised upon us by these dogs, but our Lord did not allow them to succeed because they were unbelievers.

Mombasa is a large city seated upon an eminence washed by the sea. Its port is entered daily by numerous vessels. At its entrance stands a pillar, and by the sea a low-lying fortress. Those who had gone on shore told us that in the town they had seen many men in irons; and it seemed to us that these must be Christians, as the Christians in this country are at war with the Moors.

The Christian merchants in the town are only temporary residents, and are held much in subjection, they not being allowed to do anything except by the order of the Moorish king.

It pleased God in his mercy that on arriving at this city all our sick recovered their health, for the climate ('air') of this place is very good.

After the malice and treachery planned by these dogs had been discovered, we still remained on Wednesday and Thursday.

We left in the morning, the wind being light, and anchored about eight leagues from Mombasa, close to the shore. At break of day we saw two boats (barcas) about three leagues to the leeward in the open sea, and at once gave chase, with the intention of capturing them, for we wanted to secure a pilot who would guide us to where we wanted to go. At vesper time we came with one of them and captured it, the other escaping towards the land. In the one we took we found seventeen men, besides gold, silver, and an abundance of maize and other provisions; as also a young woman who was the wife of an old Moor of distinction, who was a passenger. When we came up with the boat they all threw themselves into the water, but we picked them up from our boats. The same day at sunset we cast anchor off a place called Malindi, which is thirty leagues from Mombasa. The following places are between Mombasa and Malindi, viz. Benapa, Toca,and Nuguoquioniete.

On Easter Sunday the Moors whom we had taken in the boat told us that there were at this city of Malindi four vessels belonging to Christians from India, and if it pleased us to take them there, they would provide us, instead of them, Christian pilots and all we stood in need of, including water, wood and other things. The captain-major much desired to have pilots from the country, and having discussed the matter with his Moorish prisoners, he cast anchor off the town, at a distance of about half a league from the mainland. The inhabitants of the town did not venture to come aboard our ships, for they had already learnt that we had captured a vessel and made her occupants prisoners.

On Monday morning the captain-major had the old Moor taken to a sandbank in front of the town, where he was picked up by an 'almadia'. The Moor explained to the king the wishes of the captain-major, and how much he desired to make peace with him. After dinner the Moor came back in a 'zavra',accompanied by on of the king's cavaliers and a 'sharif '(3): he also brought three sheep. These messengers told the captain-general that the king would rejoice to make peace with him, and to enter into friendly relations; that he would willingly grant to the captain-major all his country afforded, whether pilots or anything else. The captain-major, upon this, sent word that he proposed to enter the port on the following day, and forwarded by the king's messengers a present consisting of a 'balandrau' [a surtout worn by the Brothers of Mercy], two strings of coral, three wash-hand basins, a hat, little bells, and two pieces of 'lambel' [striped cotton stuff which had a large sale at the beginning of the African trade].

Consequently on Tuesday we approached nearer to the town. The king sent the captain-major six sheep, besides quantities of cloves, cumin, ginger, nutmeg, and pepper, as also a message, telling him that if he desired to have an interview with him he (the king) would come out to him on his 'zavra', when the captain-major could meet him in a boat.

On Wedenesday, after dinner, when the king came up close to the ships in his 'zavra', the captain-major at once entered one of his boats, which had been well furnished, and many friendly words were exchanged when they lay side by side. The king having invited the captain-major to come to his house for rest, after which he (the king) would visit him on board his ship, the captain-major said that he was not permitted by his master to go on land, and if he were to do so a bad report would be given of him. The king wanted to know what would be said of himself by his people if he were to visit the ships, and what account could he render them? He then asked for the name of our king, which was written down for him, and said that on our return he would send an ambassador with us, or a letter.

When both of them had said all they desired, the captain-major sent for the Moors whom he had taken prisoner, and surrendered them all. This gave much satisfaction to the king, who said he valued this act more highly than if he had been presented with a town. And the king, much pleased, made the circuit of our ships, the bombards(4) of which fired a salute. About three hours were spent in this way. When the king went away he left in the ship of one of his sons and a 'sharif', and took two of us away with him to whom he desired to show his palace. He, moreover, told the captain that as he would not go ashore he would himself return on the following day to the beach, and would order his horsemen to go through some exercises.

The king wore a robe (royal cloak) of damask trimmed with green satin, and a rich 'touca'(5). He was seated on two cushioned chairs of bronze, beneath a round sunshade of crimson satin attached to a pole. An old man who attended him as page carried a short sword in a silver sheath. There were many players on 'anafils', and two trumpets of ivory richly carved, and the size of a man, which were blown from a hole on the side, and made sweet harmony with the 'anafils'(6).

On Thursday the captain-major and Nicolau Coelho rowed along the front of the town, bombards having been placed on the poops of their long-boats. Many people were along the shore, and among them two horsemen, who appeared to take much delight in a sham fight. The king was carried in a palanquin from the stone steps of his palace to the side of the captain-major's boats. He again begged the captain to come ashore, as he had a helpless father who wanted to see him, and that he and his sons would go on board the ships as hostages. The captain, however, excused himself......

The town of Malindi lies in a bay and extends along the shore. It may be likened to Alchochete.(7) Its houses are lofty and white-washed, and have many windows; on the land side are palm groves, and all around it maize and vegetables are being cultivated.......


[Vasco da Gama's Journal, from Portuguese Voyages 1498 - 1663, ed. C.D.Ley (1947), pp. 20-6 (London : Dent, 1947)
The account of Vasco da Gama's first voyage is taken from the annotated translation made by Dr. E.G.Ravenstein. The original text was probably the log book of the Sao Rafael written by a member of the crew, Alvario Velho. Dr.Ravenstein's translation was originally published by the Hakluyt Society in 1898.]

Notes :