24, July 2004

Zamalek Youth Hostel, Cairo

The main Pyrimid at Saqqara.

The amazing Red Pyrimid. I got to go inside!

Downtown. If you look hard you can see Alicia Silverstone on the sign.

Cairo from Mohammad Ali Mosque.

Me against the skyline by the Mosque.

A mosqe we thought was Ibn Talun. Turns out it wasn't. It is still pretty.

It is hard to believe that I have been here for almost two months, or that in little over twelve hours I will be leaving. I have had an interesting, and generally positive experience in the country, and I want to thank everyone who helped make it possible, either at home or in Egypt. I finally got to make a dream of mine come true. It was awesome, and I am so glad that I did this.
There is still a lot that I don't get about the people here, like the hissing and heckling sometimes, but I think I have learned a lot too. I think I am beginning to understand just what some of the problems are. It is interesting to discover just how they view our foreign policy compared to how it is viewed by many in the States.
Also, let me dispel the common myth about Egypt and other Arab states. It may not be safe for Americans in Saudi Arabia or Iraq right now, but in Egypt I feel it is. That doesn't mean I don't have to be careful, but I do feel safe in the country at this time. Things can change quickly, but Egyptians are reasonable people, just like you or me. It is true that sometimes I say I am Canadian when asked at places like Khan el-Khalili market, but that is primarily to avoid all of the same questions and comments that follow if you say you are American. When I tell people I am Canadian, all I get as a response is "Canadian Dry" (which is funny because Muslims technically aren't supposed to drink). It seems no one knows enough about Canada to ask any questions.
But being here has also shown me just how patriotic I am. I never realized it before, but living in a country where the United States is critiqued constantly for this or that, really lets you know how highly you regard the States, even if you don't agree with most of the current foreign policy.
Now a quick note about the future. I am worried about our foreign policy in the future if some of the people I met from the Arabic Language Institute (ALI) here (all American Students, who are obviously interested in Arabic for their future and likely to be among those in government positions where Arabic is needed) end up working with the state department or making policy. I expected to come to Egypt and find myself surrounded by American students who were serious and knowledgeable and committed to learning about the culture as well as the language. What I found were a bunch of people who wanted to lead an American lifestyle in Egypt, down to how they dress to which bars they frequent. Of course not all of the students here are like that, and certainly most of the students in my Summer Study Program are not in this group. Nor are all of the ALI students either, but there is a specific group that seemed very noticeable in this regard. I just hope that if they decide to work with the Middle East that they do understand the region (I am probably making a big leap saying that they don't - but this is how it seems on the surface), or we will just continue to have the same problems we have now.
Sorry about my previous statements, they were just things that I thought I should say at some point, cause it seems a consensus reached between the people I've talked with about it. Anyway, yesterday I went to Saqqara and Dashur for some Pyramid Hunting! It was lots of fun, and we ended up just hiring a taxi for a few hours, so it was much cheaper than any tour package. Saqqara was nice, but the Red Pyrimid at Dashur was amazing. We got to go inside, down a long "stairway" where you have to crouch the whole way, and then up another to see two chambers. It was really cool!
We also went into downtown last night, amidst all the hustle and bustle.

22, July 2004

Zamalek Youth Hostel, Cairo

My favorite place to eat in all of Cairo! It gets props for it's cheap but tasty cuisine and excellent, speedy service.

Finally classes are over! Yay!
Last night I had what will probably be my final meal at Al Dente, a wonderful little pasta restaurant. Most people would probably consider it a hole in the wall type of place, but the food is delicious. The service is excellent and fast, and they play a variety of American love songs, which creates the perfect ambiance for a lonely girl in Egypt.
One of the reasons their speedy service is notable is because nothing in Egypt is fast, or simple for that matter. It takes miles of red-taped bureaucracy to get anything done around here, even through the American University. If you go out to dinner, expect to be there for a while and don't be surprised if one or more people are left waiting for their food after everyone else has received their's.
Everything in Egypt seems to take time, and I quickly learned to accept it, otherwise my days would be beyond frustrating. I usually give myself extra time for everything, and I've been doing it for long enough that it is a natural way to think now. I don't know what I will do when I come back home to the efficient US!

21, July 2004

Zamalek Youth Hostel, Cairo

The Dervishes are Sufis, one of the differnt Muslim Sects.

Supposidly they go into a mystic trance state while dancing, or whirling.

Many other Muslims say it is all for show though. However, they are sometimes ill-regarded by other mainstream groups, like Sunnis.

So classes are winding down finally, and the end is near. I leave Egypt early Sunday morning, and about 18 hours later arrive in Detroit.
Last Saturday we saw the Whirling Dervishes at the Citadel. Everyone else had a wonderful time. I, however, felt a little ill at ease there. I don't know why, perhaps it was all that whirling, or maybe it was because I kept looking at it in a religious light. Once I looked around and realized it was a bit of a tourist attraction, I felt better. I've never been uncomfortable at any other religious service I've attended. Though I do believe this is more for the tourists. It is set up that way and everything.
Last weekend I took in the sights of Al-Azhar mosque. It is also a university (though now the religious university is separate from the mosque), apparently the oldest in the world. I got to see the old classrooms from when the mosque and the university used to be in the same building. The architecture is beautiful, though the Mohammad Ali Mosque is definitely tops all over.
As I see my time in Egypt getting shorter and shorter, I've tried to reflect on what I've seen and how life here is different from home. There is so much that I don't know where to start.... Though I was talking to my Anthropology professor here, and he suggested that I write a paper about my perceptions of Egypt and how they have changed. That has helped a bit, but I won't know exactly how my perceptions have changed since I haven't come home yet. For the most part I really have enjoyed my experience here, and I cannot wait to come back. My anthropology professor tried to convince me to come here for my Masters. I told him I would think about it....