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McConnells Mill State Park, Pennsylvania
Restoration, Conservation & Policy Proposal for Rock Climbing
Copyright, 2000 The Access Fund


1999 was an interesting year at the Mill. It saw its first real guidebook hit the bookshelves, scores of new problems opened and, as many of you know, the closure of the Projects area to climbing. It was also the first time that the Park and the local climbing community began to meet and to hopefully work towards addressing remediation of user impacts at the Rim Road climbing area, the proposed reopening of the Projects area, and a proposal to expand designated bouldering areas.

A framework for working towards addressing these issues in what is hopefully a win-win manner was presented to Park Management in September by the Access Fund. This plan, interestingly enough, is being viewed as an excellent model for working with local land managers by The Access Fund and will be yet another resource in the Regional Coordinator and climbing activist tool kit. The first step of the plan has been completed. In November 1999, Jim Angell completed an evaluation of the site conditions and is currently working on the actual remediation plan and description of the scope of work for the major soil compaction zones at Rim Road. Jim, one of the foremost trail designers in the country, has worked under contract for The Access Fund since 1990. under his leadership the Access Fund has built and restored nearly 15 miles of climbing access trails valued at more then $350,000 at 35 different climbing areas around the country. These projects were completed with strong volunteer support - nearly 25,000 hours of volunteer work supported these efforts.

The final restoration plan will presented to Park Management for review and approval. Concurrent discussions regarding climbing management policy will also be undertaken. A recommendation for expanding the bouldering opportunities has been drafted to be presented at that time. On February 19th the Access Fund Board approved a $7,000 grant to fund the proposed restoration work at the Rim Road climbing area. However, strong volunteer support will be required to complete this project, which is tentatively planned for fall 2000. If after reviewing the copy of the Restoration, Conservation & Policy Proposal you would like to comment or have any questions please email either myself at bobv512@zoominternet.net. Likewise, we would invite you to share your thoughts on a sensible proposal for expanding the permitted bouldering areas outside of the current zones. This would also be a great way for groups to let us know that they would be interested in helping with the work when times are established.

Bob Value
Regional Coordinator, The Access Fund


Access Fund Restoration, Conservation & Policy Proposal for Rock Climbing

Diagrams

Diagram 1 Toprope Climbing
Diagram 2 Rappeling
Diagram 3 Bouldering
Diagram 4 Sport Climbing
Diagram 5 Samples of Typical Safety Anchors


Bouldering


Photographs
Diagram 6 Typical Top Anchors at the Projects
Diagram 7 Typical Top Anchors w/Webbing at Cliff Top
Diagram 8 Typical Top Anchors w/Webbing at Cliff Top
Diagram 9 Cliff Base Impacts Below The Beginners Face
Diagram 10 Bouldering
Diagram 11 Top Anchors at the Projects
Diagram 12 Cliff Base at the Projects


Maps
Map 1 Overview of Park
Map 2 Rim Road Area
Map 3 The Projects
Map 4 Traverse of the Swine Area




Cliff Base Impacts Below
The Beginners Face



Bob Value
Regional Coordinator
bobv512@zoominternet.net
Rick Thompson
National Access & Acquisitions Director

 


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© 2003 Dean Morgan

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