Chatzouri (Χατζούρι)

Chatzouri is the summer refuge of Patras climbers because of its medium altitude and north-east orientation. This counts for two different crags: the lower, 80m high, gray wall, and the upper cave, with routes overhanging more than 45 degrees, the current "extreme sport climbing temple" in Greece.

SEASON: It can be sometimes hot in the summer, especially when trying the endurance 8bcs. Best season is late fall but the winter and cool spring days can be ideal as well, unless there is seepage due to recent heavy rains.

Access: Chatzouri is 45km away from Patras: Following the National Road to Pirgos turn left (at about the 15th km) direction "Industrial Zone"; reaching which follow (rightwards) direction "Santomeri" (Lately the signs are missing due to public works; the right turn is just after the steep road after the river bridge). Follow the road for about 10km reaching the village "Pigadia" (or "Tzailo") past which turn left towards "Charavgi". (Following the rightwards road, to Santomeri, you reach another 5-6 small but beautiful crags, with totally about 20 routes; 6c | 7c+. Even further there is the out-of-this-world huge cave of "Portes".) Past Charavgi turn rightwards and follow the foothill dirt road for 3km, until an excavated area, in front of the 80m wall sector (5' walk) and park here. The top of the cave sector (15' walk) is visible higher at the right.

ACCOMODATION:  Free camping is possible on the parking area. However, the nearest large stores for full supplies are in Kato Achaia. Drinkable water is provided by a fountain next to a kiosk on the uphill road between Ano Soudenaika and Tzailo.


Chatzouri – Cave Sector "The temple"

NAME GRADE Length Quality Comments

Akra Aristera

6c/+

15m

* short & bouldery

Katarameno Fidi

7a+

15m

*** A fine classic

Salamandra

7b+

15m

** Slightly exposed
Jihad 8a+ 12m ** Extended boulder
Black Sabbath 8a/8a+ 12m ** Short with powerful finish

Sykofantis

7c/7c+

20m

*  

Tarzan

7c

20m

*  
Parallactica
    
(Start: Galactica; Exit: MrForte)
8b+ 26m *** A long journey through the cave; natural

Galactica

8b

20m

*** Natural
Courva Perspectiva 8b+ 20m *** Awesome, natural

Thia Diki (Divine Trial)
 + extension

8b+
(8b+/8c?)

17m (+7m)

 ** 2 artificial holds; dispensing them  at least 8c+

project

(?)

 

   

Thia Timoria

8b+

15m

** 60o-70o overhang!

Mr Forte

8b

18m

*** Classic. A stamina problem

Pteranodous

8c?

16m

*** Superb; natural; high crux

project

(8c/+)

25m

***  

Ventouzas

(8c?)

17m

  Some artificial holds

Autokollitos

8a+/8b

18m

 * Bouldery

Skylopnichtis

7b+

17m

*** Easy start, hard finish!

Neraida

7b+/7c

18m

* Roofy boulder

Baise moi

7c+

15m

** Roofy boulder

Gamistiraki

7b

14m

 * Bouldery, exposed

 


Chatzouri – Wall Sector

NAME

Grade

Length

Comments

3 magoi

VII-

80m

a classic diedre, 3pitches; the last traverses to the left

...
  
a few easy trad routes...
V/VI-    

Flash of a blade

IX

80m

2-pitch, finishes at the highest point of the cliff, through the mirror-like wall

? VIII+/IX-? 80m ...another hard trad...

Fourtouna

VII,

60m

 

Sersegi

7a+

40m

 

Sfika

6c+

40m

 

Tritsimpidas

6c

35m

 

Alepou

7b+

35m

No bolt hangers

Ekfyli Tsarina

6b+

17m

Excellent - stands alone on a nearby rock

 

The routes are at the right side of the wide wall.

UIAA grades are given to routes were some nuts and friends are required. Otherwise, French grades are given.

 


Pictures from the Temple

 

Petros preparing for shooting - Photo by Katerina KollirouTorelis in Theia Timoria F9* project - Photo by Aris Thanopoulos  

 

Aris in Galactica 8b - Photo by Petros LappasAris in Galactica 8b - Photo by Petros Lappas  

 

 

Pteranodous initial sectionChalking up before the crux  

Vasiliki Climbing around Patras Santameri

Last update: 18/11/2005