Access:
Following the National road from the port Antirrio (opposite to Rio Patras) to
Ioannina 15Km before Agrinio you enter the 2km long canyon of Kleisoura. More
than 150m high, gray and orange limestone walls are raised at both sides of the
road. Many of them seem of poor rock quality, others demonstrate their huge
stalactites high up in the canyon. However, just before the exit of the canyon
the attention of the sport-dedicated climber will be attracted by an
impressively overhanging (35 degrees) 40m-high east-facing wall. This is one of the
newest extreme sport climbing crags in Greece, which was started to be developed
around 2000. New routes are added gradually; there is abundance of virgin rock.
There is a short dirt road which leads to the crag; attention is required as you
leave the main road (4-5min walk).
Routes
From left to right (grade in parentheses indicates no free
ascent yet).
The up-arrow (↑) indicates
extension or second pitch of the previous route:
1. | Interstellar Overdrive | 8a+ | 40m |
ŻŻŻ |
2. | Crystal method | 7b | 17m | ŻŻ |
3. | Ptichiouchos | 6c+ |
23m |
ŻŻ |
4a. | ↑ (+L2a: the roof above) | (7c+/8a) | +10m | ŻŻŻ |
4b. | ↑ (+L2b: the roof above) | (8bc?) | +20m | ŻŻŻ |
5. | Armadillo | 7a | 22m | ŻŻ |
5a. | (direct variation) | 8a | 22m | ŻŻŻ |
6. | ↑ Architeuthis (L2) | 8a+ | +25m | ŻŻŻ |
7. | Via del Popolo | 6b+ | 20m | Ż |
7a | Illuminatus | 8b+ | +20m | ŻŻŻ |
7b | (to be continued) | ++25m | ||
? (mixed gear) | IX | 25m | ||
8. | Glykia Idoni | 8a+ |
15m |
Ż |
9 | Pistolero | 8b | 28m | ŻŻ |
10 | Ohra spirohaiti | 8a/8a+ | 32m | ŻŻŻ |
10a. |
Syphilis (same bolts; avoids Ohra's crux going right in Cocodrila) |
7c | 32m | ŻŻ |
11. | Cocodrila | 7a | 26m | ŻŻŻ |
11a. | +↑ Cocodrilo Grande | 7b | 34m | ŻŻ |
12. | Rezous minus | 8b | 32m | ŻŻŻ |
13 | Kafroman (finish to top) | 8b/+ | 33m | ŻŻŻ |
(project) | 10m+ | |||
14 | (chimney-project - mixed gear) | |||
15 | (project) | 15m+ | ||
16a. | Double Penetration | 8a | 25m | ŻŻŻ |
16b. | +↑ Gang Bang | 8c | 33m | ŻŻŻ |
17a. | Kid Loco | 7a | 15m | ŻŻ |
17b. | +↑ Hombre-Solo | 7c+/8a |
20m |
ŻŻŻ |
17c. | +↑ Hombre Loco | 8a+ |
27m |
ŻŻŻ |
18. | Gourounompeis ('PigMaster') | 8b/8b+ |
25m |
ŻŻŻ |
19. | Aimatoroufihtra ('BloodSucker') | 8b |
27m |
ŻŻŻ |
20. | (8bc) | |||
21 | (8ab) | 25m |
West-facing wall opposite the monastery at the entrance of the canyon;
currently the only route is:
Best season: Easter, Fall. It's also very good for winter, except after heavy raining periods. However all routes are climbable during heavy rain. Being east-facing, it is also suitable for summer afternoons except for the worst heat waves.
Accommodation: Kleisoura
is not far (~20km) from the well known climbing area of
Varasova (village
Krioneri), where rooms to rent and free camping near the sea are available as well as
abundant multi-pitch
trad climbing (IV to VII) and some (mainly F6b to F7c) multi or single-pitch sport routes.
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Last update: 23/04/2007