Kleisoura (Κλεισούρα)

Interstellar Overdrive, 8a+Access: Following the National road from the port Antirrio (opposite to Rio – Patras) to Ioannina 15Km before Agrinio you enter the 2km long canyon of Kleisoura. More than 150m high, gray and orange limestone walls are raised at both sides of the road. Many of them seem of poor rock quality, others demonstrate their huge stalactites high up in the canyon. However, just before the exit of the canyon the attention of the sport-dedicated climber will be attracted by an impressively overhanging (35 degrees) 40m-high east-facing wall. This is one of the newest extreme sport climbing crags in Greece, which was started to be developed around 2000. New routes are added gradually; there is abundance of virgin rock. There is a short dirt road which leads to the crag; attention is required as you leave the main road (4-5min walk).

Routes
From left to right (grade in parentheses indicates no free ascent yet).
The
up-arrow () indicates extension or second pitch of the previous route:

    1. Interstellar Overdrive  8a+   40m ŻŻŻ
    2. Crystal method 7b 17m ŻŻ
    3. Ptichiouchos  6c+    23m ŻŻ
    4a. (+L2a: the roof above) (7c+/8a) +10m ŻŻŻ
    4b. (+L2b: the roof above) (8bc?) +20m ŻŻŻ
    5. Armadillo 7a 22m ŻŻ
    5a.  (direct variation) 8a 22m ŻŻŻ
    6. Architeuthis (L2)  8a+ +25m ŻŻŻ
    7. Via del Popolo 6b+ 20m Ż
    7a Illuminatus 8b+ +20m ŻŻŻ
    7b (to be continued)   ++25m  
      ? (mixed gear) IX 25m  
    8. Glykia Idoni  8a+    15m Ż
    9 Pistolero 8b 28m ŻŻ
    10 Ohra spirohaiti 8a/8a+ 32m ŻŻŻ
    10a. Syphilis (same bolts; avoids Ohra's
    crux going right in Cocodrila)
    7c 32m ŻŻ
    11. Cocodrila  7a    26m ŻŻŻ
    11a. + Cocodrilo Grande  7b    34m ŻŻ
    12. Rezous minus  8b  32m ŻŻŻ
    13 Kafroman (finish to top) 8b/+ 33m ŻŻŻ
      (project)   10m+  
    14 (chimney-project - mixed gear)      
    15 (project)   15m+  
    16a. Double Penetration  8a 25m ŻŻŻ
    16b.  +↑ Gang Bang 8c 33m ŻŻŻ
    17a. Kid Loco 7a 15m ŻŻ
    17b.  +↑ Hombre-Solo  7c+/8a    20m ŻŻŻ
    17c.  +↑ Hombre Loco  8a+  27m ŻŻŻ
    18. Gourounompeis ('PigMaster')  8b/8b+    25m ŻŻŻ
    19. Aimatoroufihtra ('BloodSucker')  8b    27m ŻŻŻ
    20.   (8bc)    
    21   (8ab) 25m  
West-facing wall opposite the monastery at the entrance of the canyon; currently the only route is:
  • Monahikos Kavalaris (Lonely Rider) 7c 25m

Best season: Easter, Fall. It's also very good for winter, except after heavy raining periods. However all routes are climbable during heavy rain. Being east-facing, it is also suitable for summer afternoons except for the worst heat waves.

Accommodation: Kleisoura is not far (~20km) from the well known climbing area of Varasova (village Krioneri), where rooms to rent and free camping near the sea are available as well as abundant multi-pitch trad climbing (IV to VII) and some (mainly F6b to F7c) multi or single-pitch sport routes. Hotels and rooms to rent are also available in Agrinio and, in more picturesque setting, Mesolongi.

 

Hombre Solo, 7c+/8a

      

PigMaster 8b+Hombre Solo 8a  


  Climbing around Patras  Vasiliki - Varasova

Last update: 23/04/2007