Samwise Hikes the Appalachian Trail!
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September 22, Caratunk House, Caratunk, ME - mile 2016.9

Autumn Trail in Maine

What a glorious day to take a zero day! When I went to bed last night, I decided I would have a look at the weather in the morning before choosing to head out or stay over. A solidly gray sky and weather reports of scattered showers all day convinced me to call over here to the B&B to see if any space had opened up...and it had. So I've spent the day relaxing in this wonderful place. This is the perfect kind of place for hikers - beds and showers for all, lots of soft chairs to hang out in - a large movie and book and game collection in the loft, plus a frig full of drinks and snacks you can purchase. Not only that, the owners will cook up burgers or pizza upon request. I actually cooked my own lunch from spare food in my mail drop, but for supper I'm getting a home-made pizza - yum! I even spent a couple hours working on a puzzle upstairs that someone had started last night. That's one of those things on my "when-I-get-home" list. I adore puzzles and I can't wait to make a few at home.

Paul, one of the owners here, insists that I am the most unlikely-looking thru-hiker he has ever met. I can't really get him to say why - except that I'm too "clean-cut." I've had dozens of people all along the way remark that I'm too clean to be a hiker, but I really don't think I'm that fastidious! I haven't combed my hair in 6 months, nor have I shaved my legs, and usually when I get to town, I have 3-5 days of dirt caked on my clothes and my fingernails are cracked and black. I can't honestly see how I look any cleaner than the other hikers around me, but apparently so. It's a weird phenomenon!

September 23, Campsite - mile 2028.8

Moxie Pond

I'm camped tonight by Baker Brook, made famous some years ago when National Geographic published a photo of the two cables (one for feet, one for hands) that comprise a bridge across it. I was delighted to find out today that the AT officially crosses a ways upstream and the cable crossing was never part of the AT - it was only for the Maine Telephone employees. I was even more delighted that I could easily rock-hop across instead of fording, due to the low water level.

I found it hard to leave the B&B this morning, even though I should be excited about nearing the finish. In fact, all day I felt rather blue, which frustrated me because I expected at this point to feel exhilarated and incredibly excited about the goal being so close to completion. Instead, today I merely felt worn out and ready to go home. Eleven more days sounded like an eternity - this after almost 180 survived! Now suddenly a few more seem so hard and it's just plain ridiculous.

Outside I hear owls calling, and I think earlier I finally heard coyotes. I couldn't be sure because I was crinkling a trash bag and every time I stopped, they did. Hopefully I'll hear more tonight. Just before I got here, I passed Moxie Pond, which has to be the most breathtakingly beautiful Maine pond I have ever seen. The surface was like glass, perfectly reflecting the tall, dark pines, the vibrant colors of the turning maples, and the rapidly changing blues of the sky overhead. What an amazing moment to witness!





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