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Samwise Hikes the Appalachian Trail! |
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April 21, Derrick Knob Shelter - mile 185.8
I felt like a different person on the trail today. I guess putting down that triple serving of soup & rice last night put me in a better position to hike this morning. Today was the climb up Rocky Top -- & though none of us can remember who sang that song - it sure was BEAUTIFUL up there. The wind was FEROCIOUS because a front is coming through but even so, what an experience. I was very grateful for my trekking poles, as I nearly got blown off the mountain a few times when the wind caught my pack.
Well, it's only 7:00 tonight & everyone is in their tents, hiding from the bugs, mostly. The gnats here are vicious & out for blood. I can hear conversations between tents as people discuss plans for tomorrow & so on. It's rather ironic that we've established a tent city here & the shelter is empty. Generally speaking, thru-hikers are expected to tent at the shelters since other hikers usually have them booked full, although they do also reserve three spaces for thru-hikers. I don't know if it's a growing trend or if it's just this year's hikers, but almost no one likes to stay in shelters unless it's raining. The mice seem to be the most frequently given reason. as well as "I sleep better in my tent". Personally I don't mind shelters at all, but I have been tenting so far in the Smokies because the shelters are so unpleasant looking. And I will also confess that I, too, sleep better in my tent, away from all the snoring & rustling of others.
Tonight I have my alarm set for midnight. Our guidebook says that we're in the peak of the meteor shower & in the beginning of another, & we're camped in a perfect viewing spot. I can't resist the opportunity to catch meteor showers in such an ideal place, so I'm planning to get up & perhaps a few others as well
April 22, Mt. Collins Shelter - mile 199.3
It was a pretty long hike to get here, but I'm glad to be here! Today we crossed the highest peak on the AT - Clingmans Dome, at 6600 feet. Not high enough to be above the tree line, but there was an observation deck built above the trees so you could see all the mountains around. It was pretty spectacular being able to see the lake on Fontana, where I was 3 days ago & then "guesstimate" across the ridges where I came. Even still, the experience was surreal. Because the trail to the observation deck is paved & there's a parking lot 1/2 mile down, the top is crowded with tourists & the like. As I went up there for a look, I had all kinds of funny looks & stares- at the top, one guy did ask about the trail & how long I was out. Other than that, though, I felt like I was kind of the freak show at the circus. Pretty weird experience, Not only that, the construction of the tower was completely space age - just like something out of the Jetsons.
Overall, Id' have to say it was a rather disappointing experience. I was so relieved to get back into the woods, where my dirt & smell were the same as everyone else's, & where I was surrounded by trees & hills instead of lots of people.
On a positive note, I was absolutely tickled to hike the ridge today, with one foot in Tennessee & the other in North Carolina. The hike up Clingmans was not nearly as difficult as I had expected and even the hike down was pretty easy. My knees were still sore & my feet are still swollen, but I guess that's becoming the norm.
Tonight I am at this shelter with a horde of other people - looks like a huge boy scout troop, plus a couple thru-hikers I recognize & an assortment of other folks. Polar Bear & Max are here with me & we have our tents pitched nearly on top of one another in the tiny remaining flat spot behind the shelter. Unfortunately, it's also practically directly below the bear pulleys! Hopefully we won't have any ursa visitors tonight. The Ridgerunner is here too, & he has been telling us stories of recent bear activity at the shelters. Personally, I'm really glad it wasn't my tent that a bear stuck his head into & woofed at me, like he did to a woman a couple nights ago.
We also found out from the Ridgerunner that somebody took a dump less than 10 feet away from the spring in the very recent past. YUCK! Neither Polar Bear or I carry filters, just iodine, which won't do anything for possible viruses in the human waste. So for tonight, we're drinking as little as possible & we plan to dump it all & refill at the next water source- bathrooms along a parking area 4.5 miles up the trail.