Anuradhapura was
the greatest monastic city of the ancient world. At its height it
was home to thousands of monks at dozens of monasteries, served
by a large lay population. It was the royal capital of a succession
of 113 kings who oversaw a flowering of the arts that produced
magnificent palaces intricate and exquisite sculptures, ornate pleasure
gardens and of course the huge dagobas, the domed buildings that
protected the most sacred relics of Buddhism. The gentle sway of
the Buddhist faith inspired the kings of Ancient Lanka to allow
freedom of workship and to build the world's first hospitals. There
were even animal hospitals provided for their non-human subjects.
Perhaps the most impressive achievement was in irrigation, with
reservoirs constructed to preserve the monsoon rains, and a system
of sluices put in place to keep the rice paddies productive.
The fame of the city spread; the Greek ambassador to India, Megasthenes
admired the limousines of the ancient royalty, the state elephants,
which were an important export, along with gems and spices. The
mass of Roman coins which have been found show that Lanka was
not short of trade and possibly even enjoyed some early tourism.
In the early 5th century, the chinese Buddhist pilgrim Fa hien
came in search of the Buddhist texts in Anuradhapura as Buddhism
was then already waning in India.
Originally founded by a minister called Anuradhapura the city
developed around 500 BC under King Pandukabhaya. In 161 BC king
Dutugemunu united the island with Anuradhapura as the Capital.
It was fought over and finally abandoned in 1073 when the capital
was transferred to Polonnaruwa. By that time the city had served
as the capital for about1,400 years. From then on the jungle
enveloped the Palaces and temples, which slowely began to crumble.
The British explorers who first surveyed the ruins in the 19th
century justifiably felt they were rediscovering a 'lost' city.
Subsequent archaeologists of Anuradhapura have had an invaluable
aid in the form of the mahavamsa, the great chronicle which records
the founding of the city's monuments in pali verse. Restoration
continues, somtimes amounting to rebuilding, since this is not
a dead city but a living plgrimage site. Tourists, pilgrims and
even monkeys flock here for their own reasons.
The most crowed part is around the sacred
Bo
Tree ( Sri Maha
Bodhi), especially on the full moon, poson in June, when the
area is packed with worshippers. People come because this is
a sapling of the original tree under which the Buddha attained
enlight enment in Bodhi Gaya in India.
It is the oldest known tree in the world and has been tended
devotedly for 23 centuries, even when the city was conquered
by Tamils. Seedlings
from it have stocked temples throughout the island and around
the globe. Today it is propped up on a frame of iron crutches
and protected by a golden railing, swathed in colourful prayer
flags offered by the pilgrims. The tree retains its beauty,
turning a soft pink when it sprouts, preferring to keep a dignified
distance from the crowds.
Near the sacred Bo Tree is the
Brazen Palace (Loha
Pasada) a grand name for what is now an unimpressive forest
of short stone pillars, most of them rough-hewn, and all tilting
at varying angles. These paltry remains convey nothing of the
splendours described in the Mahavamsa. These chronicles tell
of a palace nine storeys high, each floor with 100 rooms, and
a throne of ivory with a seat of mountain crystal.
Although called a Palace, it was not a royal residence but the
quarters of the monks (the name brazen refers not to the inhabitanta,
but to the copper roof). Otherwise this magnificent palace was
originally made entirely of wood, which unfortunately meant
that it burned down more than once. The 1,600 oillars you see
today are all that remains of the work completed by king Parakrambahu
in the 12th century.