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Mulgirigalla
Just 16km (10miles) north of tangalla, past Beliatte, is the Pahala
Vihara Cave Temple of Mulgirigalla. Allow at least an hour
to ascend at a leisurely pace and try to arrive early to beat
the heat-not least because you will have to do the entire
climb barefoot and bareheaded. Halfway up is a unique Victorian
monks graveyard, beside the entrance to a small school for
trainee Buddhist bhikkus (monks).
Heading east from Tangalla, a road heads north from Nonagama
to Uda Walawe National Park, where
some 600 elephants roam freely around the park's 308sq km
(119sq miles) of land. There
aare many places to stay overnight on the edge of the main
Park, and Jeep safaris with a guide are available to view
many species of deer, wild boar and Jackals.
Back on the coast Hambantota is the
largest
population of Malay Muslims. Its name is said to derive from sampans, the boats
which the Malays arrived in, and tota or harbour. From Sampantota
it is but short step to Hambantota. Hambantota is famous for
its buffalo curd which it claims to be the best in the country.
There are many stalls selling it-easily recognisable with
their strings of clay pots swinging from the awnings. Hambantota's
other big industry is the ancient method of salt-making, and
you will see many evaporating salt pans on the roads in and
out of town. The main tourist attraction is the Bundala
Bird Sanctuary, which stretches along the coast east
of Hambantota and is one of the best parks for instant gratification:
in a four-or five hour Jeep ride, you may see elephants, 2.5metre
(8ft) crocodiles, and flamingos - which are among the 150
species of bird found in the area. Afternoon safaris in the
dry season (December-may) provide visitors with the best chance
of seeing the wildlife.
Mulgirigalla Rock Temple
Mulgirigalla " The summit
of the Rock " was confusingly known as adam's berg or Adam's Peak until
the 18th century. The Portuguese, infamous for their destruction of Buddhist
sites, misunderstood the monks who explained that the frescoes were of the "
first man " . Rather than Buddha, they decided that these were images of Adam
and left the cave temples untouched. In the 17th century a Dutch general misled
some visiting persians who hadlanded in Matara asking to be taken to Adam's
Peak. Having no intention of marching 160km (100miles) through difficult territory,
he led them on a roundabout route from matara to Mulgirigalla dragging the journey
out for six days.
Probably founded in the 1st Century BC, this 105-metre (350ft) rock temple is
smaller than Sigiriya but rises almost vertically out of the surrounding forest.
With well preserved and beautifully painted cave temples carved into five levels,
the rock was also th site of an important Discovery; the ola-leaf scripts discovered
here in the 19th century were the key to the translation of Sri lanka's most
informative ancient text, the Mahavamsa. It is also the site of a Buddhist graveyard,
a rarity enforced on the monks by the British who disapproved of cremation. |
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