Hikkaduwa
The Main road proceeds south past beautiful Akurela beach, with a fabulous reef, and then screeches right through Hikkaduwa 100km (62miles) from Colombo - making it difficult to understand why the beach resort remains so popular.

International surfers are attracted to this buzzy bit of coast, and divers come to explore the nearby coral reefs, but the beach is narrow, the currents are strong and the rash of hastily built hotels and guest houses have just about robbed this once beautiful stretch of coast of its carefree character. Still, backpackers, independent travellers and package tourists alike seem to favour the Goa-meets Bali beach atmosphere created by the diving and surfing scene, the beach restaurants and bars, shops and snake charmers. Furthermore, Hikkaduwa's broad range of accommodation caters to all pockets.

" Coral " is the key word on Hikkaduwa, and just as in Bentota where every hotel calls itself a "Villa" here you will be hard pressed to final a hotel without "Coral " in its name. Numerous diving and snorkelling outfits in the town cater to those interested in exploring Hikkaduwa's "Coral Sanctuary". Unfortunately, the coral reefs themselves are slowly dying, but they are still well populated by a variety of fish and turtles which can be easily observed even when snorkelling only a short distance from the shore.

For divers there are also fascinating, well-populated wrecks and dives to lower-level reefs which are still living. At the southern end of town, Wewela has the best surfing waves, and you can also body surf at Narigama where the beach widens for a while, allowing sunbathers to chill out in the swelter - but swimmers need to watch out for the strong undertow and currents.

As a much calmer alternative to the teeming thrust of energetic beach life, you should visit the lake at Dodunduwa. There is rich birdlife and an island with a serene Buddhist hermitage, which can be visited by prior arrangement.

Another place providing rural light relief is the Sri Janaadarama Mahavihara just 4km (2.5miles) down baddegama Road. north of Hikkaduwa bus station. The one foot-long key that the monk uses to open the main temple is one of the sights, as is the list of foreign benefactors. This unremarkable temple has benefited from sitting next to a major resort and is well manicured. A lake about 2km away is a good spot for birdwatching.