Here is a list of the original component values for the Leak Stereo 20 amplifier and the replacement equivalents I used during my restoration excercise. This component list is available as a spreadsheet saved in Excel 95 format on the download page.
|
designator |
(All 1/2W except where shown) |
(All 1/2W except where shown, see note 2) |
R1 | 1M | 1M | |
R2 | 22K | 22K | |
R3 | 2K2 | 2K2 | |
R4 | 100R | 100R | |
R5 | 100K | 100K | |
R6 | 3M3 | 3M3 | |
R7 | 91K | 91K | |
R8 | 1K | 1K | |
R9 | 22K, 1 Watt | 22K | |
R10 | 100K, 1 Watt | 100K | |
R11 | 3M3 | 3M3 | |
R12 | 1M | 1M | |
R13 | 1M | 1M | |
R14 | 270R, 1 Watt | 270R, 2 Watt (see note 1) | |
R15 | 270R, 1 Watt | 270R, 2 Watt (see note 1) | |
R16 | 10K | 10K | |
R17 | 10K | 10K | |
R18 | 12K | 12K | |
R19 | 47K | 47K | |
R20 | 4K7 | 4K7 | |
R21 | 100R, 3 Watt | 100R, 3 Watt wirewound | |
C1 | 1nF, 400V | 2 x 470pF, 630V in parallel | |
C2 | 50uF, 12V electrolytic | 47uF, 25V electrolytic | |
|
C3 | 0,1uF, 350V | not replaced |
|
C4 | 0,25uF, 350V | 220nF, 450V |
|
C5 | 0,02uF, 350V | 22nF, 450V |
|
C6 | 0,25uF, 350V | 220nF, 450V |
|
C7 | 50uF, 25V electrolytic | 68uF, 50V electrolytic |
|
C8 | 50uF, 25V electrolytic | 68uF, 50V electrolytic |
|
C9 | 200pF | not replaced |
|
C10&C11 | 32uF-32uF, 400V
dual capacitor |
2 discreet 47uF, 450V
capacitors (see note 2) |
|
C12&C13 | 32uF-32uF, 400V
dual capacitor |
2 discreet 47uF, 450V
capacitors (see note 2) |
|
V1 | ECC83,12AX7,B339 | same as original |
|
V2 | ECC83,12AX7,B339 | same as original |
|
V3 | EL84,N709,6BQ5 | same as original |
|
V4 | EL84,N709,6BQ5 | same as original |
|
V5 | GZ34,5AR4 | GZ34,5AR4,GZ32,5U4G |
Note1: The 1 watt resistors used in the original amplifier never really needed this power dissipation, and were all replaced with 1/2 watt'ers. R14 and R15 should only really be 1/2 watts but my supplier only had them in stock as 2 watt resistors. They look better anyway, which is probably why the original had the huge 1 watt resistors too !Note 2: The capacitors were wired to provide the same electrical setup as the large canister caps which portrude through the chassis. The original caps were left in the chassis to not impact the external look of the amplifier.
For more info read the article on my restoration project.