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24 May: Florence, Italy
Drove all the way to Florence (45 miles) when I realized I left my Valet key in Siena. Since it was relatively close and I need that key, we turned around and got it. Then back into Florence (eschewing the horrible in-town directions Rick Steves gives). Parking was a bitch, but the hotel is nice.
Decided not to go to Rome. I have that $300 voucher from Alitalia so I'll use it to come back when it's not so hot, muggy, tourist-filled. And when I don't have a car.
We went around the city and got kind of pressured about finding a hotel. Walking around the neighborhood, we found that all the hotels were full. So we walked to the train station and stood in line (OK, Stacey stood in line as I got us food and then manned the phones). All the hotels in Florence were booked for tonight, so they were getting hotels 40km away. For tomorrow it didn't seem much better. It's a big holiday weekend in europe (bank holiday in GB, Memorial Day is USA, and Ascension day everywhere else). So screw it. I'm on the phones and call 7 hotels in Venice and all of them are booked solid for a long time. I flip the book to Verona and get a hotel immediately, get 2 nights, and retrieve Stacey from the horrible hotel reservation line.
Had a thoroughly forgettable dinner and tried to sleep.
25 May: Florence to Verona, Italy
The drive was easy. Navigating the town was easy. Parked about 3 blocks from the main square. Covered parking with a valet for about $9/day. Found the hotel in a snap. Got directions for a tour of the whole city from the extremely friendly hotelier. Where the hell is this, because it can't be Italy. Or at least not the Italy I was used to. I really like small town italy, places that are filled with history but not tourists. OK, there are a lot of tourists here, but with large pedestrian-only streets, large squares, and well spaced tourist traps, it is quite pleasant.
The main square, Piazza Bra, is amazing. A central fountain, lots of eatieries from the expensive to the fast, and a gigantic roman arena (where they hold the opera in the summer, and a Radiohead concert on the 30th that I'm unfortunately unable to see). We walked along the main square (past Marc O'Polo), toward the river Adige. Across the river is a restored roman theatre, some large churches, and some great old castles (closed...) Also past some of the Romeo and Juliet sights, and a really cool crypt with large gothic spires (Archi Scaliglieri).
Back to the main square to try again to get a hotel in Venice and strike out. Screw it, we're gonna go to Milan and be done with it. We had some great food on the square with some expensive wine and slept.
26 May: Verona, Italy
Went to the Church of Saint Catherine. Quite impressive. Went to the museum at Castelvecchio. Great stuff, really bad layout, staff, and descriptions. It was so hot that it was good to just have some shade. Some more gelato and back to the airconditioned hotel for some more attempts at sleep. The beds in italy are a little too varied for me to get quality Zs, and for Stacey to get some Zs at all. Ugh.
27 May: Verona to Milan, Italy
We wanted to take some pictures of things, but alas, I forgot. Drove to Milan and stopped along the way at an Autogrill to get some food (good cheap risotto). Took a little longer than I had hoped to find the parking spot I had found last time (and based on some research found to be the best value). Went into the city. The hotel is OK, but not 3 stars at all. It's like they took a shabby Motel 6 and gave you free soap and toothpaste to compensate. Air conditioning is a little fritzy, but life goes on. I took Stacey to the duomo. She was suitable wowed by the detail and took a bunch of pictures. Then, to the Virgin Megastore to buy some new albums, some more gelato, then back to our hotel for some fruit for dinner and then more attempts at sleep.
28 May: Malpensa, Italy
Drove to the airport to change our tickets to the end of the month. Stacey's flying from De Gaulle instead of Munich (or, quite confusingly, Monaco in the Alitalia Timetables). I couldn't get my ticket changed because I have to go through AAdvantage for nearly everything. On the way back from the hotel I finally washed my car. Then back into Milan to find an internet hotel to deal with mail, websites, and Disney.
29 May: Bellagio, Italy
Took the train to the car and headed north. I'm this close to Bellagio (Italy), and the poker player in me was required to go there. Lake Como forms an inverted Y (a wishbone), and Bellagio is perched at the tip of the confluence. Surrounded by the high alps and with pure blue water, Lake Como is indeed a gem. Stacey and I both love the Alps, and being able to combine Pizza, Gelato, Alpine Views, Blue Water, and the name "Bellagio" made me quite a happy camper.
Drove on the autostrada to Como, which is at the southwestern tip of one of the lakes. It was very much not the way we wanted to go, as a more direct route from Milan was just a little out of the way. Como was very bad on my driving nerves, but back on the road we headed to the southeastern tip and the autostrada. After a little confusion on my part (although Stacey had it all figured out), we ended up in Varenna. A charming little town with a beautiful view and lakefront promenade. We walked through the town and to the ferry dock and boarded the ferry to Bellagio.
Ahhh.... This is what I wanted out of Italian countryside. Small town where everyone speaks English. No major sights but everyone is friendly. The ferry over was great with the pictures of the town. This is where the Milanese go to kick-back, but this wasn't high season yet, so it was very peaceful. Can't really tell you what we did, except buy a few souvieners and a beer. We soaked up the atmosphere. Walked to the Punto Soprevente and laid out in the sun for a bit. Got a T shirt saying "Bellagio" for the next gambling trip to vegas. Fun, fun, fun.
30 May: Geneva, Switzerland (nearby)
Drove through the alps and Mont Blanc, through the Gran St. Bernard tunnel. Great drive, horrible F1 hotel. Stacey's allergy attack lead us to forgo this beautiful, serene, yet terribly hot and humid setting for France and the comfort of Burgundy.
31 May: Beaune, Italy
Swiss Hell's Angels. 'Nuff said.
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