nce you have decided on what you will plant, the next step is planting. But
before you get swept up in enthusiasm and start plopping plants just anywhere
and in any old fassion, there are a few things to be considered.
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When to Plant
Probably the most significant factor determining when to plant is at what point
the overnight temperature where you live ceases to drop below freezing. Though some
plants can tolerate short stints of a dip of a few degrees below freezing, a good
rule of green thumb is to wait until Jack Frost has packed it up for the season and
headed for the Southern Hemisphere. Here are some points throughout the US with the
months in which their corresponding last frost times occur:
Location |
Time of Last Frost |
Location |
Time of Last Frost |
Atlanta |
March |
Kansas City |
April |
Boston |
May |
Huston |
February |
Chicago |
April |
Los Angeles |
February |
Denver |
May |
Minneapolis / St. Paul |
May |
Detroit |
May |
New York City |
April |
San Francisco |
February |
Seattle |
April |
For detailed information about your specific area, consult the
UnionTools®
Frost
Guide.
An option to keep in mind is that of starting plants indoors. You don't have
to plant outside imediately upon purchase. Either buy starts or plant from seed
inside then transplant to the permanent containers that will be these plants'
permanent homes later. A window sill (preferrably a window with southern
exposure) makes a good starter green house. If you don't have enough space on
the sill for all of your starts, put a table next to the window to accomodate
the rest. Two important points about the table you use: (1) make sure it is
strong enough (the dirt, sand, and water in plant pots is denser than you might
think) and (2) the spill-over from soil drainage is mildly corrosive; if you're
concerned about the surface of the table (or the window sill for that matter)
being damaged, put a layer of protective sheeting on it (shelf paper or clear
plastic works well). There are several reasons why starting indoors might of
advantage to you:
- A particular species has a long maturation period and, consequently, you
want to make sure the plants get to harvest stage before the first frost in
the Fall.
- You live in a climate such as mine (Inland Northwest) that has a short
growing season.
- You are ambitious and want to attempt to get two plantings in for the
season of certain crops.
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Soil
One can easily make a career out of the study of garden soil composition.
As a matter fact, many people have made a career out of this and have written on
the subject extensively so that we amatures can get on with enjoying our plants
if that is our preference. I recommend a quick perusal of a gardening book to
get a good grasp on mixing your soil components. One book I would recommend is
Ortho's Gardening in Containers.
Whatever source you consult, make sure that the information pertains to container
gardening. The soil requirements for containers is radically different from that
of conventional gardening. Just to get you started, here are some of the terms
asscociated with soil components:
- Vermiculite
- Spongy mineral granules that retain water when
soaked. (Prevents the soil from drying out.)
- Sand
- Makes the soil drain quickly.
- Organics
- Moss, bark and other finely chopped organic
materials.
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