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![]() Breeding Hamsters Before even considering breeding hamsters, you must always consider the question of "Why am I doing this?" You should never breed a hamster just for fun but have a solid purpose, and that is the betterment of the species. To just putting two hamsters together just for the fun of it, and to see what baby hamsters look like, goes against everything Tershonian Hamsters and the Hamster Club of Ontario stands for. It is sheer ignorance that one should do such a thing. There are enough unwanted animals in this world, and another litter of hamsters does make a difference. If this is your sole purpose, then please log off of our site as you are not welcomed. The breeding of hamsters for sheer profit is another issue that we at Tershonian Hamsters and the Hamster Club of Ontario do not look upon fondly. Again, there are enough unwanted animals in this world. Also, profit from hamsters is very poor, and you will lose before you will gain. The cost of supplies, a good vet, and to maintain a healthy environment are all to costly to be maintained by sales of hamsters. To even think of breeding hamsters, you should also have a excellent grasp on the various standards available such as the British Hamster Association and the National Hamster Council. These standards are your breeding bible and every effort must be followed to produce hamsters that are much better then their parents. This is what breeding is all about, the betterment of a species, an animal that is better in quality then both its parents and resembles what the said standards require. Only the best hamsters should be bred. Ones that are healthy, old enough, and adhere to the standards in quality are the ones that should be bred. Not the ones that are at home and a neighbour decides to bring over to see if they will mate, or, the only hamster at home which you have decided to breed to "educate" the children on birth - come on mothers and fathers - the birth of a hamster is nothing like that of a human baby!! Sure birth is a wonderful thing, but what happens with the 12 babies you are now required to take care of! If you don't sell them or give them away to excellent homes, you are now required to come up with another 12 cages because at about 6 weeks of age they are ready to kill each other or better yet, breed, your 12 could easily become 30, 40....you decide! If you have done your homework correctly by purchasing hamsters from a reliable breeder, no, not a pet store, but a breeder. Most breeders, those that adhere to the standards of excellence, have committed years of experience in the betterment of hamsters. They understand what is required of them to produce quality hamsters, not quantity but quality. By purchasing a pair from a breeder, you are already off to a wonderful start at producing quality hamsters, therefore, you now are on your way to becoming a reliable breeder. But before you even decide to breed, you must research your area to see if there is a market for hamsters. Remember you are not going to make any money, but you will have babies to give away or to sell. Of course you have also done up pedigrees and adoption papers for your hamsters, correct!? The adoption papers are a great way for the buyer to feel committed to the sold hamster. He now kind of has a contract to follow if he wants one of your hamsters. You should always have a good feeling about the person who is buying your hamster - are they too young to own one, do they have the necessary equipment, are they educated (of course they have been given your booklet on hamster 101) in hamster care. Be very careful if you decide to supply to a petshop. Check, re-check and double check the petshop. Do they meet the necessary requirements to care for animals, not just hamsters, but all animals in their care. Do they provide their hamsters with adequate cages, bedding, food, clean water, ventilation and toys? The basics of hamster care must be met, before you even consider providing them with your hamsters. See what happens to the "unwanted" or "older" hamsters - do they become reptile food or are they stored in a freezer before disposed of in the garbage - these are just some of the situations that we have been told or have been made aware of. These petshops should not be supplied with your hamsters. You may also want to sign a contract with the shop mentioning what is required of your hamsters while in their possession. If they want high quality, healthy hamsters, then they should be willing to sign one. Although you may not be able to support such a contract, it makes you look as if you mean business and that your hamsters are well taken care of, and expect the same treatment when in their care. If you have done your homework and are ready to experience breeding hamsters, read on!
The male will mount her many times and it is very important to be there for the complete mating. At anytime they could fight and harm or even kill each other. A time span of 20 minutes is suitable at which time both can be put back into their cages. Mark on a calander the date of mating and then count 16 days ahead - this is when your babies are due. Wait four days and repeat the mating. If the female is in heat, the male will breed her again. If she is not in season, she will be aggressive towards the male and they must be removed immediately. Remember to mark on your calander - records are very important!! Once pregnant, your hamster will need some additional food, you may want to double her portion during her pregnancy. At about a week your hamster will appear to be somewhat aggressive and more territorial. She may even bite you if you put your hand in. This behaviour will increase during the later stages of pregnancy. During about a week and a half, she will start to bulge out and take on the form of a typical pregnant animal. During anytime of her pregnancy, you should handle her as little as possible. Closer to the 16th day, her wheel should be removed and her cage disinfected and extra bedding/nesting material (paper towel) reapplied. She will make her own nest wherever she feels comfortable. Let nature take its course, and she should give birth on the 16th day. Do not be alarmed if she has 17 babies and the next day 8. Alot of mother hamsters will decide on how many babies she can handle, and will eat any that she feels need to be removed. This is perfectly normal. All hamster babies are born pink with no hair, squirming, no open eyes and with little tiny ears. In a week you should be able to see some colouring and they will be eating some seeds on their own. At a week and a half, they are climbing out of the nest and wandering around the cage. Remember to lower the water bottle so that they can have a drink, their eyes might be closed but their sense of smell is working fine. The mother will endlessly pick them up and put them back in the nest but at two weeks they are everywhere in the cage. Their eyes should be open now, and at 3 weeks of age, they are less likely to nurse from mom. They can be weaned at four weeks of age if they look as if they can be on their own. At this time, the males and females need to be separated into separate cages. The babies should never be handled until they are about 2 weeks of age. Rub your hands in her bedding before handling the babies. This will make your hands smell like her and then she is less likely to harm the handled babies. Most mothers are pretty easy going about handling their babies, especially if it is a mother that you have raised. Once the babies are separated, then feel free to handle them as often as you can. This will only encourage an easy going hamster that enjoys being touched. At this time, they can be given away or sold. If you decide to keep any of your offspring, make sure that they are a better hamster then mom and dad. You want to increase the quality of your stock, not decrease it. |