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1950's |
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sturdy Venus or figure trained Elegance ![]() |
38"-32"-38" or 38"-18"-38"? "Figure
training
a 19th c.
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Getting used
to tight-lacing: Do's and don'ts
Things
to do: |
Things
not to do: |
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Today's
waists are on the average build are 28" to 34". A reasonable
expectation is 24"-28"
with moderate corseting and will give very good proportions. On the same average build, waists of 20" to 24" are very achievable with figure training. Smaller 16"-19" waists are possible with long term training as shown below and also in "accomplished lacers" |
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Modern day tightlacers have
demonstrated that even when starting later
in life, past age 20, 30 or even 40, poses no limit on the ultimate
results that can be achieved with figure training. Depending on the
degree of reduction sought, it may take
half a year, two years or more to reach the final goal, but sixteen or seventeen inch waists can be achieved on a modern body. |
Measurements:
Some controversy exists regarding inside versus outside
measurements of very small
waists. Since only the external measurement is observable, it has less
meaning to quote
the "under the corset" measurement, especially when a fitted dress or
gown is
to be
made! A
heavily constructed garment adds anywhere from one to two inches!
Quoting the inside measurement is of interest to determine the actual
level of physical constriction, which only matters to
the wearer. Recording these measurements however, is significant
because each 1/4" reduction on a waist less
than 20" is a significant achievement, as this starts to approach the
physical limit for
most.
Example: a 24" corset is laced
closed on a 30" natural waist. The corset is about 3/16" or 0.19"
thick.
Assuming a round waist, the inside diameter of the 24" corset
maybe 7.6". Add two corset thicknesses to that and you have
7.6+ 0.19 + 0.19 = 8" on the outside! That's a 25" outside
waist measurement, without
any corset stretching. A corset made for tightlacing
may well be 1/4" thick at many places, certainly at the boning channels
or at the busk and the rear at the eyelets. In that case you'd measure
25.5" outside! The corset did not stretch by 1.5" and you'd
be considered having a 4.5" reduction, which is nothing extreme, yet
the waist is reduced by 6".
When looking for the average 4" reduction, allow for a one to two
inch gap in back. Also, the corset measured when laying flat, accross
the waist tape (inside!), will give the relaxed waist measurement.
When put on, that measurement will be the inside corset measurement
and, depending on it's structure, there will be some degree of stretch.
Thus, someone with a 28" waist who wants an outside 24" measurement
should order a 22" corset and wear it with a one inch gap!. Someone
with a squishy 34" waist, can probably wear a 26" or 28" corset and
without any extreme lacing have a 28" or 30" waist respectively. Having
said all that, muscle tone and general build will have a great
influence on how easy it will be to lace. A trained muscular body will
accommodate a 2" reduction, while with the same level of pressure a
less trained body may reduce 4" or even 5". The key in this case is to
learn to relax in the corset. A well made corset allows for that.
When measuring yourself for a custom corset, don't be optimistic
with the measurements. Rather indicate the proper numbers and tell the
maker your intentions on how tight you want to wear it and where you
want it to shape you and where you will tolerate tightness. Some
individuals can't stand pulling in their lower ribs, but are ok with a
lot of pressure in their waist. They may want to opt for an hourglass
style.
Others prefer a narrow funneled lower chest and are willing to accept
the ribcage constriction to achieve that. Their corset will be cut very
different.
If the intention is to tightlace and thus longer term wear, opt for
strong closely woven fabrics, such as coutil. Pretty patterns are not
always suitable for this.You'd probably want steel boning rather than
spirals. The steel will provide much better support, allowing your
muscles to relax more and so allow for tighter lacing. Make sure
grommets are used. Eyelets are not for tightlacing. With repeated
(daily) use the wear and stresses involved dictate the use of grommets.
Backlacing: Nearly all corsets feature back lacing and during the early part of the 19th century manufacturing improvements, in particular the use of metal eyelets, allowed it to produce the degree of tightness desired for obtaining fashionable shapes. The maximum tightness was primarily limited by the sturdiness of the corset construction, but the advent of the sewing machine and use of steel stays and busks, allowed corsets to become better fitting and stronger, improving their shaping ability and overall comfort. Physicians studied the effects of tightlacing and measured that casual corset wearers accepted twenty to thirty five pounds of total force on the area between the bust and hips, but fashionable belles laced tighter and accepted eighty pounds or more of force on their waist and lower ribcage. However, when measured again after an hour, this pressure had dropped significantly, demonstrating adaptation of the body. The corset pressure however even in the tightest corset is still far below any normal physiological effects that take place in the body, thus explaining why no damage is done by tightlacing. Regardless of the adaptation, getting comfortable with the higher levels of constriction and support requires acclimatization, and it may be desirable to practice night-and-day time corseting. The 23 hour / 7 days a week practice is again adopted nowadays by modern tightlacers who aim at very small waists. For one hour a day the corset is removed for bathing and exercise to avoid muscle atrophy. These individuals report no illness or health issues at all, simply because they allow their bodies to adapt in a gradual manner. When asked if they are comfortable, the response is always "yes". The often silly question "can you breath" is hardly worthy of a response. The lungs and heart are well above the area of constriction, even in the case of the narrow chested funnel shapes. The upper chest also expands to compensate, leaving the lungs and heart relatively unaffected. The maximum breathing capacity is reduced, but rarely by more than 25%, meaning marathon running is out.. Yet, during the late 19th century women competed succesfully in many active sports while tightly corseted, such as tennis. The advantage of back lacing
is that it usually takes less
effort for a given reduction compared to front-lacing. If only modest
lacing
is needed, front lacing is sufficient The exception being long
term tightlacers, who's midsections have become very
pliable, allowing them to lace down small enough, even in front
laced corsets. The advantage of the front lacer is that it requires
less dexterity and usually can be tightened without assistance. But.. if you don't want or have someone else to lace you up,
the "doorknob" method works very well and is
well suited for solo tightlacing, just take your time. For a 4" to 5"
reduction, two runs over about 10 minutes will be more than sufficient
and comfortable. Although the lacing resistance encountered will vary
from person to
person, and by how long they have trained, it's the last half inch that
takes all the time! If you decide to lace to your limit, then when
discomfort begins you should back it off by half an inch and you'll
find that comfort will return. Lace it so that you're still ok after
two hours! Typically two hours marks a threshold for many. If you "want
it off" after two hours, it was too tight. If you are ok after two
hours, you can go tighter. |
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Pregnancy: |
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In the classic
maternity corset,
additional lacing adjustments allowed for the abdominal expansion,
without forgoing the upper body training . In particular young women,
who had invested considerable time and effort in training,
were unwilling to forgo all this during
pregnancy,
and remained tightly corseted as long as they could tolerate. Once
expansion would start,
the lacing would gradually be relaxed to retain a reasonable comfort
level. It was not uncommon
to deliver with the corset still laced-on, but then it was only to
support and
limit the
discomfort from over extending the ribs. Another reason for
extending corset wear was to avoid stretch marks. Women who laced
through the 6th month showed considerably fewer marks than those lacing
3 months or less.(Surgery, Gynecology & Obstetrics By The American College of Surgeons, Franklin H. Martin Memorial Foundation - 1913)Reducing "time-off" for maternity leave, by means of corseting is practiced again today by a number of actresses, e.g. Helena Bonham Carter concealed her condition allowing her to continue to play her role in Anne Boleyn in the historical TV drama Henry VIII. Other modern actresses have (and are) doing the same.In Indonesia women have and still do practice very tight body binding immediately after delivery in order to restore the body to it's natural shape. These bindings are as tight as a corset. |
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Producing the small
waist (and health
considerations) During the late 19th and early 20th century, when fashion promoted very tight corseting, the overall effects became better understood. The key was to reach the physiological limit while preserving health and maintaining a reasonable level of comfort. The focus of serious figure training is the ribcage which is much less pliable than the waist and if the intention of the training is to narrowly taper the ribcage, the corset must be designed to keep its form with the added strain. Maker and tightlacer Amy Crower of Wasp Creations has the reputation of specifically designing corsets for figure training and there are others as well. This was the primary reason for mothers to start corset training their daughters at an early age where the ribs are very pliable, allowing for a very narrow ribcage with relatively modest effort. By starting before the bones would "set", the ribs would grow into the shape of the corset without much effort. Most important is to ensure that tightlacing never causes pain, which would indicate that harm is being done. Corsets, no matter how tight, may be very restrictive, but should never hurt. Opponents to corseting and tightlacing will disagree on the
health
issues and are against wearing any restrictive clothing. They cite
medical reports that would have indicated that tight laced women have
“immobilized
diaphragms, compressed stomachs and lungs, displaced and damaged
livers. Yet the
manner in which tightlacing affects these organs, none
of these
effects
are health threatening, they simply are the result of body adaptation
to tightlacing, or for example pregnancy, as already mentioned. The
fact that tight lacers feel good
about themselves and their habit and are generally in good health,
confirms this and
this can
not be overlooked. The internal organs are very pliable and almost
liquid
like and move around
and change shape with minimal effort. If this was not the case, the
organs
would be like wooden
props stacked in a model and we would not be able to sit, bend or even
walk, or be able to support any pregnancy! Simply eating a large meal
will expand the stomach, displace the liver and push up the diaphragm.
A tight corset just prevents this type of over eating. Most of the
effort involved in tightlacing is because of the effort needed to mold
the ribcage, but also to support the torso, because the torso muscles
will relax more and more as the corset is made tighter. If anything,
corsets support the body and the internal organs and if anything are
likely more beneficial than thought. If any discomfort arises, it can
come from forming the ribs too fast. This is not dangerous, but can be
painful and cause temporary irritation. The cartilage that connects the
lower ribs to the sternum is what is formed by training the ribcage and
it requires time and more time as you are older when you start. No
permanent damage is done, but it can be quite uncomfortable if you went
"too fast too quickly". Even the prominent 19th British Physician Dr. W. Williams
of Liverpool,
who had been outspoken against corseting and in particular tightlacing,
admitted his frustration in that he could
not
explain the fact that his patients who practiced habitual tightlacing
for decades,
all were in good health and lived well into old age. He cited the
"deformation" of the ribcage, yet other than it creating dependency on
thoracic or upper costal breathing it had no further consequence other
than the obvious reduction in breathing capacity. This "deformation"
however was the actual intention and goal of the wearer and rather, it
was considered an essential and desirable element of beautification. Discomfort may be
experienced from the shaping pressure on the
ribs,
which after a full days wear may have become sensitive. It is important
to
unlace
slowly
to avoid discomfort from sudden release. For training there is comfort
to be found by wearing a corset during the night as well. This avoids
losing
the progress
made
during the day, by allowing the body to adapt more naturally and
gradually.
It takes a few days or up to a week to get used to sleeping
corseted and this should be build up gradually, but generally
after that first period, the sleep
quality is
not affected. For night time wear the corset can be relaxed by
one or two inches, without losing to much in terms of training. Once
used to sleeping corseted, the night time
tightness level
can be increased, until after a few weeks or months there is no
difference between the day and night time tightness. Use pillows under
your waist in the sides or back to sleep more comfortable. |
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What corset wearing women had to content with - some negative views An opponent writes: A negative view on the corset's effect on health: The total effect of an overlapping rib cage and compressed internal organs would be of extreme discomfort and of uncertain health. Women who haplessly followed the fashion trends in the heyday of the corset often found themselves spending a great deal of time with their physicians. Many doctors tried unsuccessfully to convince their patients to loosen their laces as a way of relieving their aches and pains, but women were often as fondly attached to their corsets as some modern women are to their make-up. These women demanded pills, powders, and potions to relieve their discomforts. The effect on women of multiple medications on top of the existing difficulties caused by their corsets can only be imagined. |
Recommendations on waist targets: | |||
If you
are ambitious about
figure training, there are traditional 19th century corseting
guidelines. These
were established by experienced corset makers, who
in order to stay in business had to make sure that their clients had
the
most favorable figures, proper fit, good
health and minimal discomfort. Their trade relied very much on
returning
customers and
word of mouth. Three methods are documented and are frequently cited in corset making literature : Method I presents the general limit, and the reality is usually found between methods I and II. Method III is the least strenuous and is suggested for "comfort" lacing, but is not regarded as "tightlacing". |
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Targets for waist training: | Method
I |
Method
II |
Method
III |
Waist
target is 10" smaller than the natural size. The
disadvantage is
that the waist reduction is not based on proportion. For a modern wearer this would require years of training, and unless started at an early age, the 10" reduction may not be attainable. For most modern day committed 23/7 tightlacers an 8..9" reduction is a more practical goal. |
Reduce the waist to 5/8 of the bust circumference. E.g. a 40" bust would have a moderately tight 26" waist.. The advantage is that the proportions are taken into account and thus creates a comfortable and well proportioned figure. Many modern tightlacers manage this level of reduction. |
The waist is made slightly smaller than that of the upper thigh, for good body proportions and takes body weight and body fat into account. This method was preferred by the heavier ladies, who's thigh measurements often exceeded 25" and consequently were not likely to produce very small waists. Yet for the elderly matron it would present a balanced figure. |
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Another overview of waist targets is available at the LISA site. |
How to lace a corset correctly? | ||||
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Self
lacing or
help from another person are both practical methods. After hooking the corset in front, snug up the laces, straighten out the undershirt and work bottom to waist, top to waist, by pulling the crosses. Lace a little at a time until tight. Then wait 30min, loosen it slightly, straighten out the shirt and body, and relace. |
Make sure to put on stockings, garters and
boots or shoes go on first. Once laced-in, bending at the waist
will be very difficult. |
Bare skin under the lacings may look nice,
but it is not comfortable and not suitable for long term daily wear. |
. .
. just pull!
..but, of course
it's a bit more complicated than that!
First, after having hooked the busk in front, even
out the
laces in back and remove all
slack. If you are by yourself, hook the lacing loops over a
doorknob, and walk away slowly and stop when
the laces are even left
and right and just taut.
Then gradually starting from the top, reach behind you and pull at the
lace
crosses one a at a time, down to the waist, then the same from
the bottom up to the waist, all while gently leaning or slowly stepping
forward to
maintain constant tension on the laces. Make sure you have three
to six feet of
"stepping" space, depending on how tight you are lacing. Don't just
walk and stress
the corset at the waist, it will quickly wear things out.
Repeat the "lace and
pause" every five to
ten minutes, during each pause wriggle
around in the corset to settle it, and pull out the wrinkles from the
undershirt or undergarment that is under the corset, lift your
arms
above your head and rotate and stretch your upper body inside the
corset. Next, pull the
central laces at the waist so that the two rows of lacing eyelets are
parallel. Repeat, this three, four or
more times, until the desired shape is
achieved. Hang on to the laces when it's getting tight
as they may slip back! Finally the laces are knotted, usually a double
knot, such that the laces will
not loosen by themselves. The excess laces are then tucked out of the
way under the
bottom of the corset. Preferably they are not tightened by wrapping
them around the waist and tied in front as the tension in the laces
causes excessive wear to the waist region of the corset.
For tighter lacing it is recommended to reduce in stages: take in
just 2..3"
inches initially, then repeat the process
every half hour
or so, until your comfort limit is reached. In most cases the intended
reduction is 3..6" which can
usually be
achieved in two or three re-lacings. Firm muscular bodies make
tightlacing
more challenging because there is less fat to push around, and because
of the greater muscle tone, it will take longer to "relax" in
the corset. When deciding on wearing your corset very tight, or
as tight as possible, you will need to relax breathing. Meaning when it
starts to feel tight and constricted, breathing will become restricted
as well and a pause is needed to get used to this. Walk around and
attend to other things to let your body adapt and return to autonomous
breathing. You don't want to be gasping for air! Within a short
while your breathing will relax and you can continue the tightening
process.
Cleaning: A properly treated corset will not have to be cleaned very often. When it has to, it is necessary to remove the metal boning and then dry clean it, unless it is marked that the stays will not rust, but in general the firmness and smoothness may be adversely affected by the cleaning processes, and especially for highly stressed corsets that are used for figure training this reduces the garment's structural integrity. Always inspect your corset for damage. If you catch it early it's usually easily repaired. Common areas for damage are the eyelets in the back, ripping out due to incorrect lacing, e.g. not enough pulling of the lace crosses and too much pulling just at the waist. The other is usually from long term wear with steels poking through at the edges. The corset stretches in circumference and as a consequence it gets shorter top to bottom to compensate. Spiral stays are less of an issue, but solid steel stays cannot compress, so they eventually wear through the edges. Good corset designs accommodate this with a variety of techniques, but even then, wear over time at the edges is significant. Lastly, older corsets, or those that have been cleaned too often, may have thread wear at the seams, causing ripping at the seams. This tends to be an overall structural weakening and the corset is likely approaching the end of it's useful life. If you do have an older vintage corset, I suggest you preserve it and study it's construction. If you plan to tight-lace, you really should get a modern and new corset. For example Melanie Talkington from Lace Embrace, has mastered the art of classic corset making and authentic reproduction.
To open the corset, always
loosen the laces first, do not unhook
the
claps from the studs while the corset is under tension, since you are
not likely to be able to loosen the waist area clasps! Once the top or
bottom
two busk clasps are open, all the tension will concentrate at the waist
and it may bent or break off the waist stud. If you lace very loosely,
you
might
get away with it, but a properly laced corset will be under so much
tension
that even opening the first clasp will take some some effort and it
will cause the busk to
begin
to rotate and bend. Then, once
you take it off, with the laces loosened by 4" or so, you may find that
it will be difficult to put it back on like that, if you have been
tight lacing.
You'll
have to open it six to eight inches to get back into it without
straining
the busk too much. And whatever you do.. go slow and enjoy your lacing!
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1950's |
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