Paradise Island
Koh means island
in Thai, and Samet is tree that grows in abundance on the island,
famed for its bark which is used in traditional medicine and boat building.
I fly in to Bangkok Airport
and catch a bus or taxi to Pattaya, which
is a beach resort about three hours drive away on the congested roads.
I find a room, and sleep after the 13 hour long flight, the congestion
of the airport and the long drive. When I awake I arrange accommodation
at Samet with one of the Samet accommodation agencies based in Pattaya.
Next morning before
breakfast I cram into an overcrowded mini-bus for the ninety minute drive to
Ban Pae, which is the nearest port to Koh Samet. There is time while we
wait for the tide to get some
rice or noodles for a late breakfast before clambering into the ferry.
The journey takes almost an hour and sometimes the swell rocks the small
boat so much I worry it will turn over. But as we approach the island
the waves still and I lean over the side staring at the thin white lines
that are the beaches, backed by bright green of palm trees.
The island is shaped like the letter p with a long tail. At the top
of the p is a fishing village with a jetty and a monastery and temple.
The rest of the island is a national park where development is forbidden.
The left side of the p, is a straight rocky coast with only one
sandy beach. The other long side has long sandy beaches.
I am staying about
halfway down the long tail at Ao Wong Duen. There is no jetty at
this beach and the boat stops in the narrow water.
A raft is hauled out from shore and passengers climb down the boat a few
at a time, our bags passed down to us, then stand on the raft which is hauled to the shallows. We then step
into the knee deep warm water and wade ashore. A couple of smartly uniformed
National Park police collect the park entry fee, and we make out way to
our cabins dotted behind the tree line in a mango glade.
The island is small enough to walk around. There are some small restaurants
and beach bars. Everyday, local people come over on the public ferries to
sell fruits and snacks along the beaches. Everything must be imported, except
for fish. There are no discos, go-go bars, cinemas, shopping precincts, mains
electricity or other benefits of civilistation. The owner of my cabin runs
a generator in the evening to power a strip light and fan in the room. But
at midnight that stops and it is time to sleep. My entertainment consists
of walking, swimming, talking to people I meet and reading my supply of
books. Time goes by so fast. I am so happy and relaxed, and I turn off
the neon light early and sleep a deep untroubled sleep.
When I was young the sight of coconut trees in travel films about far off
places always
seemed so exotic. I never ever dreamed that I would ever be able
to see one. I truly know I am on vacation when I can sit under a coconut
tree drinking the juice from a fresh green coconut. The beaches on Koh
Samet are fine white sand. The long beach at the top of the p has
the finest sand. It is like talculm powder and sings when pressure is
placed on it. As you walk along high pitched musical notes are emitted
at every step.
Ten days on Koh Samet passes by in a flash. Before one is ready it is
time to wade out to the raft to go on the ferry back to the mainland and
the long journey home. Back home when I tell people I have been in Thailand,
their knowing smiles and winks show they do not really believe I have spend
my time on paradise island.
I am just longing to return.
(date July 2000)I have returned many times since I wrote the above.
And every time I see changes. The pace of change in Thailand is amazing. The long arduous drive from Bangkok has been halved by new roads. No longer are you reduced to the speed of an ox cart ahead, and the new road by passes the town with cycle rickshaws that used to cause huge traffic jams. Of course, there is much more traffic and more tourists than ever so you cannot guarantee a speedy journey.
And now Koh Samet has modern communications. Whereas before the only communication was with the mainland via radio telephone, now there are mobile phones and even an internet service.
If you have any questions please ask them on the guestbook, and if you have been, please tell us your hints and tips and travellers tales.
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email me at kohsamet@oocities.com
http://www.oocities.org/TheTropics/1452
November 1998
updated July 2000 and May 2001
photographs taken on Koh Samet by me