Edinburgh (New Town) from the castle. In the far right center is Calton
Hill. The tall black obelisk to the left of Calton Hill is the Walter Scott
Memorial. Below that monument is the National Gallery of Scotland.
Probably my favorite city in the U.K., especially in August. No other place that I've been has the combination of history, energy, and majesty that Edinburgh possesses in August. Not only are there the many historical sights to visit; but, there's also the International Arts Festival and the Festival Fringe to experience. I find it enjoyable enough to simply walk along the Royal Mile, wander through the Princes Street Gardens, and look out over the town from Calton Hill. All of these things are free. But, there are a few other things in Edinburgh that do have an entrance fee that are also worth visiting.
Places to Stay - I have one good recommendation and one bad recommendation.
First the bad news. We first stayed at Alpha Guest House on Maitland Street
in downtown Edinburgh. While the location was convenient, the stay was horrible.
The rooms were rather run down. The bathroom on the floor didn't work, so
everyone used the private bathroom that was in my room. The breakfasts were
Continental and nothing like other B&Bs. And to top it off, the manager
of the facility was incredibly rude throughout our stay. The worst part
of the stay occured when we asked her if it was okay to park outside the
B&B on Maitland St. She said it was. It was fine...if one doesn't mind
having one's car towed. One hundred ten pounds in cash later we had our car back. Then,
when we went to pay for our rooms (and she knew that we had just spent most
of our cash on the towing charges), she demanded £230 cash for our
stay because my friend's check guarantee card only covered checks up to
£50 (a policy that was not disclosed to us until we were checking
out). What made that policy more annoying is that they had accepted a deposit
check for the rooms without asking about the check guarantee number. Needless
to say, I would recommend that everyone avoid this place unless they absolutely
have nowhere else to stay. A room with three beds and private bathroom/TV/phone
was £52/night.
The other place we stayed was a polar opposite to the Alpha Guest House.
The place is Ratho Hall, located in the town of Ratho which is about 10
miles west of town (not far from Edinburgh Airport). Yes, it's a little
out of the way if you are planning to visit a lot of sights and do some
late night clubbing in Edinburgh. But, the amenities of the place more than
outweigh the distance in relation to central Edinburgh. The hall was built
in the late 18th century as the manor home for the local large landholder.
It has since been bought by Frederick and Janet Small, who've renovated
it into a wonderful B&B. The house is surrounded by 22 acres of gardens
and pasture land, all of which has trails for guests to explore. If other
physical activities are desired, there are tennis courts, croquet courts,
and a basketball court. Of course, the rooms are so nice that you may never
want to explore the grounds and the other amenities. Then, there are the
hosts. I've never met a more accommodating pair of people than the Smalls.
Their concern and attention to their guests was best exemplified when my
friend asked about the croissants they served for breakfast. When we last
stayed at Ratho Hall two years ago, they served us croissants and fresh
raspberry preserves as part of the huge breakfast they offer. When we arrived
this year, they made a tea for us. At the tea, my friend commented how on much
he loved the croissants. Janet said that they hadn't offered them for quite
awhile. However, they were on the breakfast table when we came down to
eat the next morning. The Smalls had made a special trip into Edinburgh that morning
in order to make sure that we'd have croissants for our meal. It's that
kind of attention that earns repeat customers, like myself. And, it's that
kind of attention that won them the Best Guesthouse in Scotland for 1996
by B &B Magazine. Cost to stay at Ratho Hall is £37.50/person/night.
And they do take credit cards, something Alpha Guest House doesn't. If you
have independent transportation, you owe it to yourself to stay at Ratho Hall.
The Vaults - At the insistence of one of my traveling companions, we went on the Haunted Edinburgh Tour. I have to say that it was a very good suggestion. The guide took us through many of the wynds and buildings where Edinburgh's frequently gruesome history occurred. The highlight of the trip was when he took us through a rather nondescript door across the street from the Holiday Inn on the Royal Mile and led us into Edinburgh's vaults. The vaults are a series of interconnected rooms build into the hills that make up the town. The tour of these rooms is simply amazing. It is hard to believe that there were thousands of people living in these rooms. The guides do an excellent job of portraying how miserable the conditions must have been for the people who lived in the vaults. They also do a good job of convincing you that the whole complex is haunted. This tour is definitely not for the faint of heart. The meeting place is out in front of St. Giles' Kirk. There are several tours each day. Look for the signs along the Royal Mile detailing times. Price to go on the tour (which lasts about an hour and a half) is £5.
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