Tickets at Ticketweb: www.ticketweb.co.za   

Don't blame us, if you do not go.

27 January 1999  

Don't blame us, if you do not visit the ITW show this year.

You will miss out on an excellent variety of things to do, so you can make your travel plans - PROPERLY.

You can also meet some of our regions BEST Backpacker brains, who will be over there, JUST to help you get an idea of what the RAINBOW NATION has to offer.  

Worst of all, you could miss a FANTASTIC exhibition and the possibility of winning "THE PRIZE" This will knock your socks off and really give you a "SOUTH AFRICAN EXPERIENCE".

SANTOS EXPRESS
MOSSEL BAY, GARDEN ROUTE
SLEEP ON A REAL TRAIN
Tel 0444-911995
E-mail trein@mb.lia.net
FEBRUARY SPECIAL
* SINGLE R60-00pp
* DOUBLE R55-00pp
OR
* R120 PER ROOM SLEEPING 3 OR 4
15 % OFF
ON :
SEAL ISLAND TRIPS
RESTAURANT
MEALS
SHARK DIVING (Only if arranged and booked through us)
  * FREE BEER ON ARRIVAL
* FREE MORNING COFFEE

27 January 1999  

Hello all you party punters!  

Just a wake-up call for those of you who haven't yet heard, that there's a big jol this weekend down at the Breede River!  

It's the Savanna Up The Creek Music Festival featuring the best of SA rock - Springbok Nude Girls, Wonderboom, Honeymoon Suites, Koos Kombuis, Blues Broers, Fetish and a whole lot more!  

The Festival, which has been going for a good few years already and just carries on getting hotter every time, is held at Up the Creek which is a Felix Unite river camp 20km from Swellendam.  It kicks off on Friday afternoon and runs until Sunday afternoon.  

We are selling tickets at the Backpackers for R180 - this includes entry to the concert itself as well as camping at the venue on Friday and Saturday nights.  Food and drinks are on sale.  

Give us a call if you'd like to book or find out more.  

And while you're about it, why not pop into the Backpackers before or after and enjoy a good dose of our legendary country hospitality!  Not to mention the range of outdoor adventure activities that we organise...  

Keep watching this space - you're going to be hearing from us again.  

Until then ....  

At a function last night (18/08/98) held at the Waterfornt, attended by many in the industry and quite a few backpackers, the guys from the Baz Bus announced that they have extended their services:

AS OF THE 26th AUGUST THEY WILL BE SERVICING SWAZILAND as part of their normal route.

This will be an excellent addition to their existing service from Cape Town, that runs people up and down between Johannesburg and Cape Town. It travels along the whole eastern coastal road to Durban and and on to Johannesburg, letting you hop on and off, as you please at hostels along the way, with the return journey also popular.

As this is a very new change, you can contact them direct to get timetable details either via -email or phone them in Cape Town (+27-21) 4392323 or fax 4392343

DESTINATION

We found out in Kampala that our original destination, the Ruwenzori mountains or Mountains of the Moon, were temporarily closed to visitors. Anti-government rebels, flushed from Zaire by the new regime there, were harboured in the mountains and although they weren't posing a serious threat to tourists, the government was starting a 'sweep' to to root them out. http://www.utando.com/icon/Emergency_updates/uganda/irinug3.html
So we diverted attention to the other side of Uganda and the country's second-highest mountain area: Mt Elgon. It offered the challenge of a week's wilderness walking and, as it turned out, a week's rain. On the way from Dar es Salaam airport to Uganda, we passed East Africa's better known volcanoes, Meru and Kilimanjaro, as well as the far older Usambara, Pare and Uluguru mountains.

MT ELGON

The volcano first erupted some 24 million years ago and is extinct now. It is far older than Kilimanjaro, and was probably higher at one time; its base, up to 120km across, is still broader. The name Elgon appears not to be local, but according to C.W. Hobley's 1897 account derives from the name of a tribe living around the mountain, the El Gonyi. However, Captain Smith's survey of 1899 refers to it as Donyu Elgon, and our recent guide book explains the name Elgon as deriving from the supposed Maasai name for the mountain, Oldoinyo Ilgo'on, meaning 'breast mountain'. Sadly the cloud and mist prevented us from assessing for ourselves the appropriateness of this appellation.

The main peaks of Mt Elgon circle a central caldera some 8km wide. The highest is known as Wagagai, 4,321m high. The caldera rim is breached on the north by the Suam River, which now forms a part of the Kenya-Uganda border. To the south east, the border runs for a short way around the caldera rim, leaving most of the peaks, including Wagagai, in Uganda.

Colonel MacDonald commented in 1899 that "the more elevated parts will well repay further work both for the zoologist, entomologist, and botanist, as the mountain region appears to possess varieties and species of its own". With its high rainfall and geographic isolation, the mountain has an abundance of plant and animal species, with a relatively high proportion not found elsewhere. Since 1937 most of the Ugandan side of the mountain above 1,900m has been a Forest Reserve and in 1993 became a National Park, giving it a higher degree of protection and management resources. Henk Hoefsloot and Gershom Onyango give a useful summary of human impacts and current conservation policies.

THE JOURNEY

TRAVELLING TO MT ELGON
As NMcW had been working in Dar es Salaam before the holiday, we started there. Highlights of the journey to Mt Elgon included: a visit to Lushoto in the Usambara mountains; spectacular views of Kilimanjaro from Moshi; the 'Akamba Executive Bus' journey from Nairobi to Kampala; Lake Naivasha with its pink shimmer of flamingos; crossing the Owen Falls hydro-electric dam where the Nile leaves Lake Victoria; and the morass of matatus at Kampala bus station.

HIKING ARRANGEMENTS ON MT ELGON
The Mt Elgon National Park authority is trying to generate revenue from the Park to help pay for its conservation. Tourism is a major potential earner. However, until recently just a few dozen foreign visitors came each year. Trying to increase this number, the Park is now developing a network of trekking routes, campsites and huts.

The 'standard package' so far developed starts from the village of Budadiri, west of the mountain, climbing to Wagagai summit and returning by the same route, a walk of four or five days. The other option takes the same route to the summit, but returns across the extensive northern slopes of Elgon to Kapchorwa village. We chose this option, deviating slightly to the east at the end in order to reach a small border crossing into Kenya. Other routes are being planned by the Park authority for variety and to spread the pressure of numbers.

We made our trek arrangments on arrival at the Park Office in Mbale, where there is also a small information centre. This involved:
* Paying daily Park entrance fees and nightly camping fees
* Arranging for a ranger to join us for the day spent in the caldera. This is obligatory, because of armed cattle rustlers using the mountain route to Kenya
* Arranging for a guide to join us throughout the trip. This is not obligatory, and indeed not strictly necessary as the mountain paths are well blazed. However, the guides are all local men; we would have been lost in the fields on the lower slopes without our guide and he was a constant source of information.
* Arranging for two porters to join us throughout the trip. Again, they were not obligatory nor strictly necessary, but in the rain on the slithery clay slopes we were thankful to have them. And for the people of Budadiri and other villages, local employment is seen as a raison d'être for the National Park which otherwise largely excludes them.

The prices for the last two are set by the Mt Elgon Guides & Porters Association, a co-operative which must be admired for taking the uncertainty and difficulty out of hiring local help. The only confusion we ended with was about paying bus fares back to Budadiri - with retrospect, we would have agreed on that first. The guides in the Association have been through a training course in mountain walking. As we discovered, the training is very basic, nonetheless a good idea.

All payments were made at the Park office, and our requests were sent by radio to Budadiri. We could as well have made the arrangements in Budadiri, but that would have meant waiting while everybody got ready.

BUDADIRI
We arrived by Matatu just after dark in a power-cut Budadiri. The only hotel, the Wagagai, was undergoing the throes of expansion, reflecting the rising number of visitors. The highlight here was the temporary bathroom, an open concrete balcony where you could splash in the water tub while looking out at the fireflies, the cooking fires in the village, and the stars. The owner, a banker who had worked in London, was back in his village for the weekend, overseeing work at his hotel. He encouraged us to return: if anybody is interested in staying in Budadiri for a while, he will put you up in return for help with teaching in the local school (see address section). It would be a superb experience.

TREK 1: TO SASA RIVER CAMP (altitude 2900m)
The next morning we met our guide Nathan, number 31 of his father's 69 children, and the two porters. After the road-head, a path wiggled up through luxuriant farmland of bananas, maize, beans, sunflowers, coffee and passion fruit. We stopped to sample some local liquor, sucked hookah-style from a warm pot. Tempted by the succulent path-side peas, we bought a bagfull, specially-picked, from one of the farmers.

A steepening of the path brought us out of the farmland and into the National Park, entering the forest of bamboo stands, twisted trees, hanging mosses, lichens, bright turacos and glimpses out through the mist to the plains. We walked for several hours in the rain to reach Sasa campsite among the trees by the Sasa river. An evening by the fire in the porters' hut dried us out before we scurried back to our damp tent.

TREK 2: TO MUDE CAVE CAMP (3500m)
The path was very muddy after all night rain. It continued through the forest to a remarkably abrupt transition to giant heather heathland. Arriving a few hours later at Mude Cave camp (the name comes from a hunter who once inhabited the caves, not the state of the ground) we found both Raleigh International and World Challange occupying the site, the later rather disheartened after a cold, wet day on the mountain. By this stage, we had also joined up with an English and two Dutch walkers. There was just enough space for everybody to huddle into the huts for the rest of the afternoon while the rain continued.

TREK 3: WAGAGAI PEAK
An early start for the summit day, with promising blue sky and even sunshine. The heather gave way to more open moorland with giant groundsels and lobelias. At Jackson's tarn, the mist drew in again, turning to rain as we joined the crater rim leading gently up to Wagagai summit, 4,321m, the highest point of Mt Elgon. If it wasn't for Nathan telling us, we would probably not have known we were there, with thick mist obscuring everything! Still, it was satisfying to have reached this point. We hurried back down to Mude Cave for an afternoon in the tent trying to remember card games. NMcW had headache from altitude, AJG unaffected.

TREK 4: TO HUNTERS CAVE CAMP (3870m)
This turned out to be the longest and hardest day. The morning was brilliant and clear for crossing the caldera. We followed the 'Smuggler's Path', used for transporting contraband when the Kenya-Uganda border was closed, and still in illicit use by trans-border cattle rustlers. For the first time we could see the surrounding peaks, including Lower Elgon, the second highest peak at 4,301m, on the Kenyan side of the crater. Two lammergeiers flew above. We detoured a bit, crossing the Suam River to reach a hot spring. This was no spouting geyser, but there was a perfect bathing spot where the hot sulphurous spring water flowed out into the cold river water. Nearby were buffalo footprints; the ranger told us that buffalo and occasionally elephant were starting to venture out from the Kenyan side of the mountain, where the longer-established National Park has afforded greater protection than in Uganda.

Crossing back over the Suam, one of the Dutch women slipped, badly gashing her shin. We did our best to patch it with Steristrips, and she bravely continued at a fast hobble. As we set off, clouds rolled up through the Suam Gorge and rain hit again. The afternoon was spent with heads down, the whole group soon sodden, on the seemingly endless journey to the next campsite, Hunters Cave. Crossing the caldera rim again, the rain turned to hail, the porters walking barefoot in slush. Arriving at Hunters Cave towards evening, we found a low, muddy recess in the rock, not quite the spacious dry caves whose prospect had sustained us during the afternoon. With no possibility of drying, we retreated to soggy tents.

Then just before setting, the sun beamed out over the hillside, transforming the campsite as the crags, the groundsels and the multitudes of red-hot poker flowers were bathed in a miraculous sunset glow. The wet tent froze during the night.

TREK 5: TO PISWA CAMP (2850m)
In the pleasant morning weather, it was tempting to stay for a few days at Hunter Cave, exploring the moorland, craggy hills and ravines. However, we moved on down, through more fields of red-hot pokers, with views out over the extensive foothills - the decayed remains of the volcano - and their lush blanket of rainforest. Some of the hillsides we descended had once been forested, but had been burned and were now vegetated with thick weeds - an ideal site for making comparative studies of soils, vegetation and hydrology.

Piswa Camp was the main ranger post for the north side of the mountain, and was bustling with rangers, the Raleigh team and a group of students from Aberdeen University. To relieve the monotony of pasta stodge, Alison had the brilliant idea of buying some fresh potatoes from the rangers, boiling them and smothering them with Kenyan Blue Band margarine and black pepper - a heavenly meal. Meanwhile, blue monkeys came out of the trees into the rangers' vegetable patch for their own raided meal.

TREK 6: TO KAPKWATA
We parted ways with the other trekking groups and headed along the less used path to Kapkwata, the plan being to continue eastwards from there to the Kenyan border. The path provided glimpses of all sorts of activities in the Park. Pastoralists from the northern slopes of Mt Elgon had been permitted to continue grazing their cattle within the Park boundaries to give them protection from cattle-raiders and bandits. So the forest was interrupted by open lush pastures, reminding us of nothing more than the parkland of an English country house. Further down, more hillsides had been cleared for agriculture and soon we were walking through non-stop fields of maize and potatoes, the volcanic soil and all year rain creating perfect growing conditions. Nathan told us that since last year all the farmers within the National Park had been given five years to buy land elsewhere and move out; after that, the hills would be reforested - a remarkable aim. From these high open fields we could see out over the hazy plains of Uganda and Kenya, with Mt Debasien, 3,000m high, tempting us far to the north - "as rugged a mass of precipitous crags of bare rock as one can imagine" C.W. Hobley described the same outlook exactly a century ago.

At the first village we came to, the path took us past the primary school. Faces turned in the classrooms as the children spotted the two passing wazungu - Europeans - and uncontrollably the whole school erupted as every child ran out shouting and clapping to march along with us. The break didn't last for long as teachers rounded everybody back inside, although the hubub continued. We felt rather detrimental to the Ugandan education system*.

[FOOTNOTE:]
Compare this to the reception accorded to C.W. Hobley travelling around Mr Elgon in July 1897: "A beast was killed, and a medicine man examined the entrails with a view to discover if our visit boded for good or otherwise. The augury proved favourable, and they at once proceeded to spatter my men with the contents of the bullock's stomach, which, it appeared, was a sign of great good-will. The men, half amused and half angry at this novel pleasantry, returned the compliment with great zest, and in a little time every one was in a most unpleasant condition and in the best of humours. Needless to say, I hastily retired to my tent at an early stage in the proceedings."

After a long walk, getting lower and hotter, we reached the roadhead and Kapkwata village, where Nathan and the porters turned to find a lift back to Budadiri. We had been expecting to find transport ourselves that day to the Kenyan border, but none came. Kapkwata was little more than a few houses and a Park office. A ranger brought us potatoes, cabbage and water and let us camp outside the office - the last night of the walk and the first dry one.

TO KENYA
Two hydrogeologists gave us a lift the next day to the border. We soon realised how lucky we were to be in a comfortable, well driven 4WD vehicle. The road was steep and exceptionally slithery. A truck coming up towards us, jam-packed with people, slid into the verge and lurched sideways, fortunately not going over.

The Suam border seemed hardly used. The Kenyans had not yet established an immigration office, although the men at the customs post, hidden away on a side road, obliged us with a letter as evidence of our entry into Kenya. From there, a matatu took us to the agricultural town of Kitale with its banks, fax bureaus and supermarkets.

BACK TO DAR ES SALAAM
Highlights of the trip back included a visit to the Marich Pass Field Studies Centre on the edge of the Cherangani Hills; the discovery that the fastest and most comfortable way to travel from Nairobi to Arusha is in Peugot 504 taxis; a night at a friend's coffee farm on the western slope of Kilimanjaro; eating lunch by a waterhole in Mikumi National Park while a lone elephant came to drink; and a night in Zanzibar. We returned to Dar es Salaam before flying home.

FOOD & COOKING

From UK: muesli and milk powder, muesli bars (excellent Quaker variety), herbal tea bags, powdered sauces and soups
From Mbale: pasta, bread, honey, biscuits
From Budadiri market: onions, cabbage, passion fruit>BR> En route: Peas, potatoes, bamboo shoots for nibbling fodder

In retrospect, given the advantage of porters, we could have taken more fresh local food and not have relied so much on dried food.

At each campsite, the guides and porters cooked together over an open fire (only dead wood allowed). They were of course happy to let us use their fire, but visitors are encouraged to bring their own stoves and fuel. We took an MSR stove, burning kerosene. A litre was more than enough. We didn't see any small gas cylinders available in Uganda.

EQUIPMENT

Bearing in mind our decision to hire porters (who would carry packs of up to 20 kg), we realised that our 'light is right' attitude, although useful for the rest of the trip, was in fact perhaps a little short-sighted and left us with minimal dry clothing for the duration of the trek. Although we were unlucky to have six consecutive rainy days, our guide told us that this can happen at any time of year. Listed below are the important items we packed, together with recommended additional equipment we would take on any future visit to the mountain.

Medical kit: painkillers, gauze, non-adhesive dressings, Steristrips, rehydration sachets, surgical tape, syringe & needles, plasters, Compeed blister dressings, insect bite cream, antihistamine tablets, proguanil and chloroquine for malaria prophylaxis, mefloquine for treatment.

Equipment Taken (with improvements/comments) one item each, unless marked with a * which indicates shared item.

tent - Saunders 2-man Spacepacker Plus * (waterproof, two entrances; but inevitably much condensation)
MSR stove with kerosene fuel * (better: petrol)
down sleeping bags, 1x2 season and 1x3 season (better: synthetic filling (maybe) or water-resistant outer)
1 closed cell carry mat/1 Thermarest
Pertex jacket (better: Goretex jacket & overtrousers)
sunhat & suncream
waterproof hat
gloves
thermal top & long johns
fleece jacket
4 pairs socks - 2 thick, 2 thin
cotton trekking trousers & shirt (would have been good in better weather)
leather boots
Teva sandals
medical kit (in daysac, not large rucsac with porters)
insect repellent
iodine water purification tablets
headtorch plus spare battery
waterbottle
penknife
large rucsac (carried by porters)
small daysac
plastic rucsac liner (better: more strong waterproof bags for packing kit, especially sleeping bag)

ITINERARY

		journey					night

July

mon	21	NMcW arr Dar				Sheraton Hotel

sat	26	AJG arr Dar				Traffic Light Hotel

sun	27	drive to Lushoto			Grand Mandarin Hotel

mon	28	drive to Kisiwani then Moshi		YMCA

tue	29	drive to Arusha, bus to Nairobi		Grand Holiday Hotel, 							Tsavo Rd

wed	30	bus to Kampala				with friends

thu	31	in Kampala				with friends



August	

fri	1	bus to Mbale then Budadiri		Wagagai Hotel

sat	2	trek 1, farms & forest			Sasa River camp

sun	3	trek 2, forest then heath		Mude Caves camp

mon	4	trek 3, Wagagai peak			Mude Caves camp

tue	5	trek 4, cross caldera			Hunters camp

wed	6	trek 5, moorland			Piswa camp

thu	7	trek 6, forest & farms			Kapkwata camp

fri	8	Suam border to Kitale			Alahara Hotel

sat	9	bus to Marich Pass, walk		Field Studies Centre

sun	10	back to Kitale, then Nairobi		Grand Holiday Hotel

mon	11	taxis to Arusha				Maasai Campsite

tue	12	drive to Sanya Juu, near Moshi		with friends

wed	13	drive to Mikumi Village	Hospital 	Guest House

thu	14	visit Mikumi Park, then Morogoro 	Hilux Hotel

fri	15	drive to Dar, boat to Zanzibar		Manchi Guest House

sat	16	explore Znz, boat back, AJG flies out	with friends

sun	17	in Dar					with friends

mon	18	NMcW flies out				British Airways

COSTS

All costs for TWO people



					local			UK£

Transport

Arusha-Nairobi bus*			T 	30,000		30

Nairobi-Kampala bus			K 	1,600		16

Kampala-Mbale bus			U 	12,000		7

Mbale-Budadiri matatu			U 	2,600		2

Suam-Kitale matatu			K 	  400		4

Kitale-Marich Pass matatu		K 	  800		4

Marich Pass-Kitale matatu		K	  160 		2

Kitale-Nairobi matatus			K	  760		8

Nairobi-Namanga Peugot			K 	  400		4

Namanga-Nairobi Peugot			T 	4,000		4

Arusha-Moro.-Dar - fuel			T 	30,000		30

Dar-Zanzibar-Dar ferries*		T 	40,000		40

    sub-total								151



Accomodation

Lushoto hotel				T 	10,000		10

Moshi YMCA				$	    15		9

Nairobi hotel				K 	 1,200		12

Wagagai Hotel, Budadiri			U 	 7,000		4

Kitale hotel				K 	   800		8

Marich Pass Field Centre		K 	   750		7

Nairobi Hotel				K 	 1,200		12

Arusha campsite				T 	 4,000		4

Mikumi guest house			T 	10,000		10

Zanzibar hotel				T 	 8,000		8

    sub-total		                      				84



Food

In UK	-							10

For Mt Elgon				U 	20,000		12

Average per day 

    2 x 17 x £6							204

    sub-total								226



Other

Map of Uganda				U 	5,000		3

Ugandan 1:50,000 maps			U 	5,000		3

Mikumi Park fees 1 day			$ 	   30		19

Mikumi guidebook			T 	4,000		4

    sub-total								29



Mt Elgon (6 days)

Park entry fees				U 	70,000		42

Park camping fees			U      	100,000		60

Park ranger				U 	14,000		8

Guide					U 	48,000		29

Porters					U	84,000		51

Tips					U 	28,000		17

    sub-total								207



Total										697



* = lower rates due to Tanzanian residency



Approximate exchange rates

T = Tanzanian Shilling, £1 = 1,000

K = Kenya Shilling, £1 = 100

U = Uganda Shilling, £1 = 1,650

$ = US$, £1 = 1.6



Mount Elgon National Park

Park entry fees: normal rate is U10,000 per person per day.

However, a 5 day block is U30,000, and each additional day U5,000



Camping fees: U10,000 per person per night.



Park ranger: U7,000 per half day



Guide: U8,000 per day



Porters: U7,000 per day

BOOKS & MAPS

Briggs, Philip (1996) Bradt Guide to Uganda. 2nd edition. Invaluable for getting around Uganda, well written, but surprisingly low on detail about Mt Elgon.

Else, David (1993) Trekking in East Africa. Lonely Planet. Gives a good description and sketch map of the mountain, although the advice on the practicalities, having been written in pre-National Park days, is rather out of date.

Hobley, C.W. (1897) Notes on a journey round Mount Masawa or Elgon. Geographical Journal 9: 178-185.

Hoefsloot, Henk and Onyango, Gershom (1995) Mount Elgon National Park. Swara, vol. 18, no. 5, September/October 1995, pages 33 to 35. Swara is the magazine of East African Wild Life Society.

MacDonald, Col. J.R.L. (1899) Journeys to the North of Uganda. Geographical Journal 14.

MacMillan Uganda Traveller's Map. 1:1,350,000. Excellent overview of the country, with relief shading and National Park information on the back (although none on Elgon). Available from the Tourist Office and bookshops in Kampala.

Freytag & Berndt Road Map: Kenya Tanzania Uganda. 1:2,000,000. Good overview and road map of East Africa. Some details out of date. Useful climate data - although nothing indicating the seasons on Mt Elgon!

Schematic map of Mt Elgon showing campsites and distances, available from National Park office at Mbale.

Smith, Captain G.E. (1899) Road-making and surveying in British East Africa. Geographical Journal 14: 283.

ADDRESSES

For details of Mt Elgon National Park: Warden-in-Charge, Mount Elgon National Park, PO Box 135, Mbale, Uganda Our guide on Mt Elgon Nathan Milton Mabaya, PO Box 20, Budadiri (Mbale), Uganda

Interested in short-term teaching help in Budadiri Robert W. Gimunye, Wagagai Hotel Ltd. Budadiri, PO Box 102, Mbale, Uganda

Superbly-located field centre north of Kitale Marich Pass Field Studies Centre, PO Box 564, Kapengura, West Pokot, Kenya

East African Wild Life Society, P.O. Box 20110, Nairobi, Kenya. http://www.cheetah.demon.nl/eawls.html or Email them

Authors:
Nicholas McWilliam, Linacre College, Oxford OX1 3JA, UK nicholas.mcwilliam@geog.ox.ac.uk
Text copyright of the authors 1997
This is supplied for informational purposes and should not be considered a definative guide at all.

Submitted by Nicolas - TO Help others - MANY THANKS!!

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