Paintball Central

Paintball Central

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Paintball Central

I am always trying to keep this updated, so check frequently back for new information.

Newbie Freequently Asked Questions(FAQ)...

Newbie FAQ:

Alot of people always ask the same questions, So I figured I would make this...

Game Types:

Capture the flag: - Also called woods. Each team starts at oppostie ends of a field and must get the other teams flag from the enemies base and hang the flag in their own base without being hit by a paintball.

Speedball: - This is played on a small field with two teams starting on opposite sides, usually the teams must all be touching the starting bunker. On the field, there is generally a lot of bunkers; which is anything that can be hid behind, for example, barrels, logs, spools, inflatable shapes, etc. There is a flag in the very center of the field and the object is to get the flag and get in to your enemies starting spot without being hit.

Scenario Games: - These games have special circumstances and objectives to be accomplished. Many scenario games are historic battles, like the Oklahoma D-day reinactment, themes from movies, or whatever else you decide to play to add some fun to the game.

Guns or Markers:

Taken from The silencer in the Tippmann forum. I take no credit for this.

Paintball markers, or guns, come in 3 styles:

Pump Guns: - In order to fire you must cock the gun via a pump arm. Then to fire you pull the trigger and a paintball is shot. In order to fire again, you must pump the marker again. Some pump guns are known as stock class guns. These are limited to 10 round loaders that are parrelell to the guns main body. They also must be pump action they must use a 12 gram Co2 cartridge. This kind of play is very challenging and many people choose to play stock class so they can get better, or they jsut like the challange of it.

Semi-Automatic: - In order to fire you must first cock the gun usually by pulling a knob back. When you pull the trigger a paintball is shot and the marker recocks itself. These will fire as fast as you can pull the trigger. These make up the majority of paintball guns today.

Electro's: - These guns are electronically controlled. Most electronic guns have semi-auto fire, as well as full auto fire capability. Tournament will not let you use guns set to fully automatic, which means when you pull the trigger the gun will fire many paintballs until you let go of the trigger, because of safty reasons. These are generally more expensive but they work very nicely.

Barrels:

Taken from The silencer in the Tippmann forum. I take no credit for this.

Barrels

A new barrel should always be your first upgrade. Stock barrels arn't made to be vary accurate because the designers know that most people will just buy their own barrel afterwords so making a good stock barrel would just raise the prices of the gun.

Barrel lengths, pressure, and accuracy -

I common myth among new players is that the longer the barrel the more accurate the barrel will be. NOT TRUE. Barrel physics can be a little complicated if you do not understand how pressure differences react to each other, basically what you have to understand is how high and low pressure air flows within spaces. In any paintball gun the ball is pushed into the barrel and then is accelerated down the barrel. You might ask yourself why does any gun need a barrel? A barrel guides a paintball as it accelerates from a standstill. When the bolt pushes the paintball down the barrel pressurized gas comes out of the valve between the paintball and the valve. This cause a very high pressure (normally around 100psi is required to launch a paintball) behind the ball and a low pressure down the barrel and in front of the ball. If you know anything about physics you should know that this means the high pressure will want even itself out with the low pressure and this action will force the paintball to move. As the paintball moves down the barrel the pressure behind the ball will decrease because the total volume of the container the gas is in will increase but it will continue to push the paintball along. Airgun Designs, the company that produces automags, have done many tests on this and has found that a paintball needs 6-8 inches of a smooth barrel and no holes/porting to properly accelerate. Anything longer or shorter will mess up the accuracy of the paintball coming out. Does this mean that you should buy and 8-inch barrel? The answer is no. On barrels acceleration of the ball is cut off at the first porting hole. This means your barrel should have 6-8 inches (from the back) of no porting. Then after about 8 inches there should be either no barrel or there should be some porting in order to get the best accuracy out of a barrel.

So how can I get the most accuracy out of my barrel?.

The most important thing is to make sure your are using the right size paintballs. To small and it makes your gun less air effieceint because air will just flow past the ball. To big and the ball might break in the barrel. This is the main reason why the Smartparts FREAK barrel system is one of the most accurate systems. There are many other barrels that let you change their inner bore size by twisting them. One other key factor in accuracy is how consistant your gun is. If your gun is chronoing in at 240fps and the next shot is 280fps then your shots arn't going to be very accurate. This is one reason why some poeple prefer nitrogen over Co2 because it is much more consistant.

What barrels do I recommend?

1)Lapco Bigshot/Autospirit- Very accurate and will shoot almost any size paintball with good accuracy. It also doesn't break very many paintballs. Personally i have used over 10 cases of paintballs through my 98 and have had no barrel breaks. One other advantage is that it is only $50, which is half the price on the boomstick. The only drawbacks is that it is louder then most other barrels except for the flatline. I really don't care. The Lapco Autospirit is the same barrel as the bigshot but in a smaller bore size. The bigshot is .689 and the autospirit is .687.

2)J&J ceramic-Good accuracy and quiet. The main feature of the ceramic is that it can clean itself if a ball breaks and still maintain something like 80% of it's accuracy. Other advantage is that is it only about $30.It's not quite the accuracy of the boomstick, bigshot, or freak system but not much of a difference.

3)Dye Boomstick-Very accurate and quiet. The thing i don't like about the barrel is that your are paying $50 for the barrel and $50 for the Dye name.

4)Freak barrel system-Most accurate if sized correctly. Mostly quiete but it dependes on what tip you have on it. The Freak system is a 2 piece barrel and the back half is where you insert the barrel sleeves of the size of paintballs you will be using. The front half is known as the tip and you can have many different kinds of tips.

Gun Maintenance:

Taken from brutl_force and _TT_ in the Tippmann forum. I take no credit for this.

Take the gun totally apart after each game to get ALL paint out. Run some hot water on the inside of the barrel to help get the paint out. Then, Try it out with a paper towel. After that, oil orings, and put oil in the air adapter, put on CO2 and fire 40-50 shots (without barrel/paint) to oil inside of valve. Use Hoppes #9 gun oil (recommend by Tippmann) as it will not mess up your o-rings. Hoppes #9 oil should have come with your gun or you can buy it at K-Mart or any good gun shop.

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