SIAMESE FIGHTING FISH
SPECIES: Betta splendens
APPEARENCE: The B. splendens sold in pet shops show little resemblence to the wild fish found in rice fields and drainage ditches of the Far East. Domestic bettas have long flowing fins and are brightly colored- traits selectively bred into the fish over the years. Colors are solids or combinations of blue, red, grey, yellow, white, green and even black.
SEXING: Male domestic bettas tend to be the ones with the long flowing fins, however, there are varieties (split-tails) that don't have long fins. In general, the males are bigger and more agressive- they will display to a mirror. Females may also display, but can usually be kept together without serious problems.
CHARACTER: Bettas are agressively territorial- especially the males. Two males in too small of an area (anything less than a 55 gallon tank) will fight until a loser is determined and escapes. The problem in a tank is the lack of anywhere for the loser to escape to. Because of this space issue, most fights in tanks end in the death of one fish. Females are less agressive, but problems can still arise. When in breeding condition, the male will actively (reads agressively) court the female, and mating, too, is very violent. Most breeders immerse the female in a diluted solution of Methylene Blue after mating, as her fins are usually pretty torn up.
BETTAS IN BOWLS? When you see bettas in pet stores, they are usually in tiny jars or bowls. This is to keep them from fighting with each other. They can live like this because of an organ called the labyrinth organ- a spongy mass of tissue situated just behind their eyes. The labyrinth allows all species of bettas and gouramis (collectively called the anabantoids, or labyrinth fishes) to obtain the majority of their oxygen directly from the atmosphere. You will often see these fish go to the surface and gulp in air.
So yes, they can live in bowls without aereation or filtration. That doesn't mean that they can live in there without water changes, and they still need space to grow. Anything under 1/2 gallon is too small and is cruel to the animal. The water should be changed when it looks dirty- at least every 3-4 days, using aged and dechlorinated tap water. Note that in most towns, it is no longer enough to allow the water to sit for 24 hours before using it. Newer chemicals are being used and unfortunately do not dissipate as easily as chlorine does. Use a commercial aquarium dechlorinator/ water treatment. Click here to read about
BETTAS IN VASES.
BETTAS IN COMMUNITY AQUARIUMS? The sad thing about bettas living in bowls is that many people feel that they can ONLY live by themselves. This is not true- in fact, in a community tank with a betta, the betta is far more likely to be picked on by the other fish than to pick on them. Each betta is different, but, in general, here are species to avoid keeping with bettas: tiger barbs (unless they are in large groups- >10, and even then, use discretion), Siamese Algae Eaters (these fish are agressive with all slow moving fish, including angel fish. Watch them carefully), other labyrinth fish and some tetras (those that tend to fin nip).
FEEDING: There are many commercial betta foods on the shelves. Tetra BettaMin, HBH BettaBits, Hikari Betta Gold (formula is the same as Cichlid gold- use a pepper grinder to make your own betta-sized pellets) and AP Betta Bites. Bettas also like live/frozen food- bloodworms, brine shrimp (always rinse first), blackworms, tubifex, daphnia and mosquito larvae. Just remember that bettas are predators and cannot live on plant material.
BACK
International Betta Congress Website
Darth Betta- my current SFF. Photo: December 2000.
Diagram of the labyrinth organ. From The Aquarium Fish Survival Manual.
Mud, Carolyns' male SFF. Photo: December 2000.
A red female SFF, owned by Carolyn. Photo: December 2000.
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SIAMESE FIGHTING FISH CARE SHEET
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