© 2002 Will
The Details: A beautiful setting for some hard climbing. Similar to, and almost as extensive as Centennial Glen - and much quieter! The main wall in particular is very impressive, with the easiest thing on it being a (goodlooking!) 22 variant L off Lyptus. Apparently Euchre (23) is now a grade harder since a hold broke off at 4m.
Access: 12-15min walk. Park as for Piddington, then walk L around the loop. Follow the path down L, and about 20m after it takes a sharp L hand turn, drop down back R on the smaller path. Follow this about 300m down through the gully, until the vista comes into view. Head around R under overhangs until an echoing cavernous gully appears. The climbs are all on the wall/rooves opposite, and some easier ones around L.
Described L to R, facing the cliff.
Silent Rage 12m 25 (L)
Cruxy start, but the rest aint easy! Sloper to good break, then a big blind move out roof to tight break. Up to pockets, move out R, and up to excellent 2 finger pocket. Very small and crimpy to clip 4th RB (I took a 4m winger and landed on the tree!), then on up to break. Annoying to traverse way out L, up, and all the way back R to flake in roof, and chain. Ok.
* Albatross 12m 19 (OS)
Good til the slab. Sustained, slightly overhung climbing on smallish holds. One nice sidepull move past the 1st bolt is the crux. 4BB to DRB.
Creature Without a Brain 12m 17 (OS)
A nice arete R of A, with a few moves at the grade. 4BB to chain.
** Lyptus 22m 23 (L)
Excellent! About 10m overhung, too. Nice and hard off the ground, then swing up jugs to 4th RB, and rest on L. Up L to crimpy undercut traverse back R, to good jug at 5th RB. Crux here - dyno or powerful sidepull/pistol-grip to scoop, which is best at the R end. Pull up onto headwall into sustained crimpy climbing past more RBs to DRB. 9RBs + DRB in all. A good 22 variant heads L after 4th RB to finish up Euchre.
© 2002 Will