© 2001 Will
Sissy Crag gets a page to itself, as it has a lot of truly awesome bouldering, as well as a few routes - there may be a guide coming out for it, anyone know? All overhung, starts about V0 and just keeps getting harder - not for beginners. Although steeply overhung, it still seeps during and after rain.
Lindfield also now gets it's own page, it has grown on me! The excellent thing is the variety of problems on offer, it's not all overhung like Sissy, but offers laybacks, smearing, slopers, slabs, crimpy vertical walls, cracks, jugfests, traverses, roofs and highballs! Brilliant stuff.
West Lindfield
Quite impressive chunk of rock really, and in a lovely setting. Most importantly, it's always dry thanks to the large overhangs. Unlike Sissy though, there are no routes punching out the roofs, so its bouldering only. The first little wall has a good section for playing eliminates and a hard roof problem, but is ever so small. The main area, up the hill, has a looong traverse, but only a limited number of “move-up” problems, and those that do exist tend to be 4 moves max. But, there is certainly plenty of fun to be had here.
Queens Park
Vertical and steeper. Simple to medium hard. Located at the highest point of the park, with nice city views, and the Blueys looking delectable off in the distance. At the very L end of the path is some good bouldering next to the road. Small but good, and there's infinite variations. About 80m further round R past some fig trees and higher overhanging sections (I'm amazed they haven't been chipped into submission!) are some steeper problems, with some very welcome toprope bolts.
In Coogee, and I imagine other places too, there are sandstone retaining walls all over the place. A really good one I have used is situated next to the East Sydney Tennis Club (cnr Mount and Bream). Best of all, it's on public property too! This wall is about 40m long, and 10-12ft high with a nice soft and even landing. It is excellent for honing your face climbing on small holds. The holds tend to be rather abrasive, but there are some really good problems, mostly topping out. A great one goes up through what looks like a chipped sidepull. We've completed problems about every 2 feet along this wall - including some quite difficult ones (I'd say equivalent to about a 24/25 - I dunno what that is on the V scale. V2?). But there's still lots of variations, along with a huge sapping traverse which are still to be done. Go for it! A groundsheet and toothbrush come in handy.
Maroubra :
Just a boulder problem we found on the N headland. Walk out along the rocks, until near the end of the headland there is a large area with no boulders. About 50m N is a low deep cave, maybe wet at higher tides!
? 7m V1 (sent)
Up the centre is a rib. Start well under, with toe hooks next to hands. Swing L hand out to divoted (chipped I think) ledge, then match with R, push L hand out to fairly wide flake/ledge. Bring R heel up to heel hook with R hand. Release L toe hook carefully, and move R hand up to bottom of spine, and L hand. Move R heel hook along to bottom of spine, then less steep climbing on smaller (typically greasy) holds up to top of spine.
There is also bouldering at many of the crags listed elsewhere in this site.
For a complete description of all Sydney crags and bouldering sites, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.
© 2001 Will