© 2002 Will
The Details: One of the best crags in the Blueys. Above grade 18 it's of the calibre of Mt Piddington, but doesn't have too many good climbs below 17-ish. Around Memory Lane is a compact offering of dozens of classics, so its only a quick walk between climbs.
Access: 15min walk. Access is currently prevented by the SRA and a local landholder. To get to the carpark you'd need to refer to the SRC Upper Blue Mountains Guide, or better yet follow someone else. From the carpark, the trail leaves from the most downhill point, and heads down the L side of the gully for about 200m under some short walls, and then round left into a heavily vegetated and often wet amphitheatre - Greenhouse Gully. The track to the Railway Cliffs veers down R here, which can also be used to access the L end of Cosmic (slower for most routes though). Through the amphitheatre over branches laid across track, then across small slab and to the ‘kidney bowl’, a pool in a creek. Across, then the track emerges onto a rock platform with an excellent view of the cliffs opposite (the Railway Cliffs, T2 & The Freezer). From here, go through the dip, and stay on the higher of the two paths. About 100m on (50m after stepping over a log with a ‘groin-height’ spike on it - careful!!!), there is an obvious chain on the track. This is the best access (Memory Lane). Down the chain and chopped holds to a good view of the Clip or Die wall (imposing black slab), then 50m round left to a deep gully and another chain. The hugely chalked climb on orange rock on your L as you get to the bottom is Walking Wounded (23 and brilliant). To descend from the climbs on the walls L and R of I'd Rather Be Sailing (19), walk R along the line of chains on the ledge to Memory Lane.
Described L to R, facing the cliff.
Xerxes 30m 16 (YP)
Good stuff for the first two thirds. Marked, about 30m L of IRBS. Start on R, and step L under roof to clip BBs. Nice and cruxy for a few moves to 4th BB, then it gets much easier, and dirtier, past more BBs and a #0.5 camalot to a very loose top out. DBB or TBB, walk off L.
** I'd Rather Be Sailing 40m 19 (OS)
Damn fine. Marked, about 60m L of Memory Lane. Mostly about grade 16, except for a bouldery start, protected by a so-so #2 wire. Up to jug, then to undercling/flake/jug with plenty of gear options, and up L to arete. 10m run out to 3rd BB (possible wires and/or cams??) with delicious exposure. Belay off RB and chain well back, then exit carefully R.
* High Plains Drifter 40m 16 (YP)
1m R of IRBS. Hard undercut start, then nicely up the wall. Run out to 20m past 3 or 4 friends. Nice medium hexes on R at 20m, then up and L to good wires in thin crack. Lotsa bolts for belay.
** Clutching at Straws 40m 20 (OS, 4/98)
Excellent slab! Jump to first jug, clip, then strenno to pull onto slab. Easily to next BB, then a nice section past more BBs to rest on ledge (#5,6 Hexes). Excellent climbing through crux section to base of crack, and really sweet moves up thin crack (#1,2 Hexes). Quite soft after the start.
** Clip or Die 40m 21 (OS)
A great climb, with continuous moves around grade 18-20 for most of the slab. Use the rest below the roof well, then off two good holds/gastons, run feet up wall, and hoick L foot up to jugs just below hands. L hand up to outpull in roof, then undercling R out the roof, with footwork and pumping out being the two real problems. Then rounded sidepulls up the flake, to jugs and exit.
*** Walking Wounded 20m 23 (L)
"Mega Classic". No, in fact, I think I'd call it an absolutely bloody amazingly brilliant MEGA classic myself!! Just about every move is exquisite. It's the very chalked orange wall at the bottom of Memory Lane. Start at line of scoops, L hand on good gaston . . crank . . sloper . . sidepull . . undercling . . crimp . . footwork . . thin . . roof . . technical . . jug . . roof . . glory . . . . .
Nah, if you want beta, you'll have to take me with you!!!! It is a truly phenomenal climb. One of the best single pitches of climbing I've done. I'd go on, but you get the idea!
Just some practicalities - the first pro is a bit necky to get to (~ #2 camalot in the break), with some hard moves just past it, so maybe use 2? I also wouldn't bother clipping the 3rd BB (just under the small roof), and maybe skip the 5th as well (under big roof), as there is a BB just over the lip of each roof, and this will reduce drag significantly.
PS: did I mention that this climb kicks arse . . . . .
*** The Eighty Minute Hour 30m 18 (OS)
Marked, just R of the descent. Crux off the ground to #1 camalot at 4m. Up past BR out R and #3 cam on arete, to spacious ledge. BR then step L and up arete to #4 cam (or #11 hex?), then BR on 2nd ledge for mantle. BR then squat out L to arete and plenty of exposure, and haul to the top. DBB as for WW.
How Much is That Doggie in the Window 27m 14 (YP)
Slab on L side of Bernutts block. Not a bad 'ole trundle.
* Mekong Charlie 23m 21 (RP)
Great climb, beautiful rock. Hard past first bolt, then crux at 3rd, which is hard to clip. Mantle, clip, nice move, then a juggy runout finish.
*** Mindblower 20m 20 (OS)
Yeah, a damn fine route. Despite its blank appearance from below, good holds appear right where you need them. Slightly tricky to step R to 1st BB, then up to the crack, lots of cool moves and 2 more BBs. Lovely move into fingerslot, then sidepull to stance and a good small wire. Tricky and delicate move to the #3.5Fr slot. Continuous moves up crack, protected by another wire and a #1.5Fr if you’re not too pumped, otherwise just go for it.
*** Interstate 31 30m 17 (OS)
Probably a grade easier if you can jam. Very cruisy, with great jams on offer basically the whole way. Can be led quite safely with 2 big hexes, and 2 each of #2 camalot, #2.5Fr, #3 Fr and #3 camalot, or even less. Slightly tricky to start, then lovely, tricky and a touch sustained for the middle 10m between the two pods. Probably the most continuous jamming of any crack in the Blueys, ‘mindless jamming’ really does sum it up.
** Baird’s Effort 30m 19 (tried!)
An aesthetic looking route. Heinously hard undercut start - harder than 19 even if you aid off a wire! Hard to roof and good microcam, easy step L under the roof to wide crack (good big wire). Pleasant undercut sidepulling off the ledge to stance at massive undercling, small wires. Crux moves for 3m, then very pumpy wire placement at bulge. Hidden sidepulls on L to pull over bulge and gain wide crack (slight stance, #4 camalot or #1.5 Fr). I bailed here, looks quite nice though tricky up #2Fr sized crack to ledge, arete to top.
** Barbarossa 40m 21 (L)
Bloody awesome! I'd damn near give it 3 stars. About 80m R of EMH. The unprotected traverse to start is a bit of a worry (about grade 19). From the first bolt, prepare for 40m of continuous crimping, interspersed with some great reaches, thought provoking moves, 2 small roofs up high, and a beautiful undercling move underneath the first roof. The crux, if any, was past the first bolt, but there's plenty of grade 21 moves all the way. If you're after the redpoint or onsight, I'd consider skipping one or two of the bolts - they're pretty close together, and there's not many jugs on this climb from which to clip!! The only real rest is just past halfway, about 5m below the first roof. 2 RB and DBB for belay, then rap.
** Allied Chemical News 25m 17 (OS)
Make that 15m! Ignore the first pitch, walk up L to ledge. A ballsy lead if you're at the grade - 3 BBs. Good climbing though, and take a camera - the situation is great.
Tunnel Vision 20m 17 (YP)
Surprisingly sustained. Some nice jamming moves, but spoilt by vegetation and dirt. It’s 15 if you don’t do the top crack.
Cattleman’s Union 40m 15 (OS)
A dangerous route that should have been bolted. And it doesn’t even follow the fine arete. Up to #1 friend under roof at 10m. Traverse left to pull each roof, then old piton 3m in from arete at 16m. Stay 3m from arete, and up 5m (crux) to #1.5 friend break. Up on some brittle edges past little pro to tree. Top pitch looks crud - rap 30m.
* Piece of Edge 30m 11 (OS)
Ok. Slab with minimal pro, then crux up short vertical section. Up good thin seam, then step L on top of roof, and nice final crack.
** Extensions 30m 11 (OS)
Excellent! Easily up crack to half height. Great #4 hex, then up to crux section below block and tree. Beautiful and simple jamming gains rest above tree, then up final crack in a nice position.
To see a photo of these routes, click here.
© 2002 Will