Moonarie

Access: Drive 5hrs from Adelaide, 12hrs from Melbourne. 35-50min walk. Get to Hawker, continue 42km north towards Wilpena, and turn L at a well signposted road to Arkaroo Rock. Follow this dirt road down through the first creek bed, then around the long sweeping turn it takes to the R, and down into the next creek bed. Immediately after this 2nd creek, turn L. The 'no-access' signs don't apply to climbers who have permission to camp here. Follow this smaller and rougher road (manageable in 2WD) for about 800m into the campsite amongst a grove of small pines. As you enter, there's a creek bed on the L (beyond which camping is not permitted). To find the walk-in, cross the creek bed then walk upstream on the L bank until you reach a wire fence. Some boulders have been placed about 30m back from the creek as a 'stile' to get over the fence, the walk-in starts here and is fairly easy to follow all the way up to the crag.

Descent(s): Some routes have lower offs (2 ropes usually), see James Falconer's Moonarie site (link below) for a list. However most routes top out. The Southern Descent Gully is the main descent, but requires a lot of care - it has seen deaths and is dangerously steep for nearly the whole way down. From the top, enter the gully from the well-cairned N side (closer to Flying Buttress) - the S side leads to a deathfall. Another descent is the 45m rap off the Great Wall (first timers shouldn't try to find it in the dark), followed by a 10m rap off the ledge. Don't know much about the Northern Descent Gully, but it doesn't look too steep.

A view of all of Moonarie from down near camp.

Described L to R.

A view of the Southern third of Moonarie from down near camp. Initialled routes are: Mr Ordinary (*** 21), Pagoda (*** 15), and Pine Crack (*** 19).

Checkers Wall

Descent(s): Some routes have lower offs (2 ropes usually), but most top out and require you to walk R (N) along the top to descend the Southern Descent Gully

Forgothername heads up the excellent arete of Mr Ordinary (*** 21), with Neil wearing his 'French Film Crew" hat. Pagoda starts up the corner second from right

*** Pagoda 120m 15
Stunning positions on an absolutely massive detached flake with the 2nd belay being a beauty out in the middle of a blank wall 60m off the deck. 1) (35m 10) up ramp 2) (** 30m 13) Diagonally L up massive detached flake all the way to the top (the original 17 version goes up the vertical crack halfway up which rejoins the main corner) 3) (*** 15m 15) going on 17 if you ask me! Up crack which arcs over R into the corner. 4) (* 40m 12) Nice long corner pitch of all sorts.

A view of Pagoda from Top Camp. A party is visible at the base of the original (17) 3rd pitch which goes direct up the wall to rejoin the major corner. The 15 variant continues up L from them to the top of the grey flake, then follows the R-arcing crack back into the corner.

A view back down the 15 Variant 3rd pitch, with Nic perched atop the enormous detached flake.

Neil on the second pitch of Pine Crack, with Dave on belay. Most people run these two together. This orange wall has several great 20-25s.

A view of Pine Crack from near Top Camp, with Dave (in white on the bulge) seconding the airy third pitch.

* Goldfinger 20m 21 (OS)
About 50m R of Pine Crack is a scramble up to an elevated ledge. This route starts out of the gully which leads up off this ledge, taking the lovely vertical orange wall on the L. A real fun bolted route, but with 4-5m between bolts its more sporty than your average clip-up! Once the first bolt is clipped they're all good clean falls though. If you want to be a purist and avoid the initial stick clip, I'd recommend fiddling in some trad gear as the crux is getting to the clipping hold, and if you came off you'd be off the ledge and crashing down the gully. Anyway, most people stick clip, then lunge desperately to the slightly scary flake. From there up there is lots of grade 20ish moves, a move L at half height, and one tricky move about 3m above the 3rd or 4th bolt being particularly memorable! Rap off.

Flying Buttress

Sun/shade: Sun until late morning, although routes on the Southern Descent Gully side of the buttress are shady almost all day. Wet weather options: Vortex and Buckets would withstand quite a bit of rain, but the scramble up there in the wet would be treacherous. Available Grades: 15-25 Descent(s): Rap station above Vortex, other routes exit the top of the buttress by climbing the headwall behind then walking down the descent gully. ** Vortex 17 (OS) An excellent steep crack line, continually pumpy and tricky. Rap off. ** The Buckets of Jism 19 (OS) Sport-o-rama, so this gets plenty of tickage. I put in some trad pieces below the first bolt, but from then up its glorious steep face climbing, and not entirely on buckets either! *** Flying Buttress 105m 15 (OS) 1) (** 35m 13) scramble in from left, gain chimney from R, then a long excellent chimney to below major roof 2) (*** 18m 15+) sandbag central if you take the main line through the roof - it's probably only 15 if you take the original way by deviating a few metres to the right 3) (** 25m 15) another sandbaggy pitch, with some steep tough moves to get past the overhanging offwidth crack - I swung L to some jugs on the face but it's still harder than 15 IMO. 4) We walked R around the roof to finish easily. Note to get off there's a headwall which we roped up for: 5) (30m 6) Up the headwall wherever, seemed easiest to keep trending left. ** Swooping Pterodactyls 25m 22 (flash)

Flying Buttress with a dude in white on some 21, and there's someone on Vortex, the very steep left arete of the main buttress up near the black slabs. Flying Buttress (*** 15) takes the major crack system up the front, with Swooping Pterodactyls (22) just to it's right.

Sumchick on the delightfully positioned Buckets of Jism (19). The obvious crack just left is Vortex

A view of the central section of Moonarie from near camp. Initialled are: Garden Refuse Removed Cheaply (*** 120m 13), Nervine (*** 115m 12), Guru Wall with hard overhung routes on superb red rock, and Hangover Layback (*** 90m 15). The Great Chimney is immediately L of Guru Wall.

The Ramparts

Descent(s):

** Sweeping Statement 25m 20 (OS)

** Reality Factor 75m 21 (OS)

Me starting up the first pitch of Reality Factor, with the mighty Guru Wall on the R, and the Great Chimney on the L. At top L the ropes are hanging off the incredible rounded arete of Goblin Mischief (*** 23) which looks absolutely amazing.

Neil on the second pitch of Reality Factor

Neil again on the second pitch of Reality Factor

Me leading the third (crux) pitch of Reality Factor (© Neil Monteith)

Moonarie Northern section viewed from base camp. Initialled is the obvious crackline of Melodrama (* 45m 15)

The Great Wall

Descent(s):

** Outside Chance 25m 16 (OS)

* Buckleys 15m 17 (OS)

*** Downwind of Angels 45m 19 (flash)

Mushroom Boulder

Mushroom Boulder

More Internet Sites on Moonarie Climbing

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