© 2002 Will
The Details: From it's reputation and popularity you would expect this crag to be a lot better. The route lengths are all exaggerated by around 20%, the cliff is quite inconsistent (regular choss and/or breaks in the cliffline), there is heavy erosion everywhere, and the bolts are generally quite old and starting to show it! However, yes, there is certainly ‘some’ good climbing to be done here. I was certainly disappointed by Exhibition Wall and Atomic Punk when I saw them (haven't done EW so I can’t comment on route quality). EW is well and truly overbolted (13 bolts in around 25m), though none of the FH look that great. Anyway, the access is unbeatable so I guess that counts for something! (ie its easy to piss off and find a better crag!). You’ll note that all I can say about most routes is that they’re ‘worth doing’ . . .
Access: 2min walk. From Mt Victoria, follow the signs all the way out to Mt York. The routes are mostly within 50m of the car.
Described L to R, facing the cliff.
*** Auntie Jack 30m 18 (RP)
A great route. The moves to the bolt are certainly a bit committing, but you have two options - either balance across the small slab in cramped positions, or pull straight off the deck to good holds on the lip of the bulge above, and then traverse L, which makes for overhung positions but better holds. Anyway, clip BB, continue L to thin flake. A good cam pocket protects a hard move to gain the flake (ignore the shitty wires!), then slot a great cam and backclean to reduce drag. Awesome moves up the flake (so-so wires available) lead to another sinker cam-break, then a magnificent move gains jugs, which continue right to the top. You’ll need #1-1.5 Frs for some small pockets for the belay.
** Viparete 30m 17 (OS)
Direct up the arete is more like 20. Start up groove on R of arete, stepping L to arete at 4m. Good small wire, shallow #1 Fr, then tricky to good #0.5 cams on ledge. Continue up arete, then trend R onto face up overhung section (wires). Step L around arete at bulge, then back R to belay.
* Obituary 20m 14 (OS)
A stylish corner crack, though some of the rock on the right face is a bit dubious. Surprisingly tricky up initial corner (smoother than it looks!), to stance under roof. Crux over roof, then continuously pleasant moves lead to a slopy topout - don’t use the tree root, there’s a good crack right beside it to haul off. Belay and rap off DRB.
** Atomic Punk 22m 20 (TR)
Absolutely fantastic moves, the only reason its not a total 3 star classic is the dubious rock and bolts. Pleasant 8m slab (better pro than appearances would suggest) to niche and BB. Lovely moves lead steeply out of recess, then fantastic varied climbing leads up the slightly over-vertical wall, fortunately with the odd rest. Crux at about 18m, then steeply to DRB.
* Refusal 25m 14 (OS)
Really good. Up to ledge, then crux moves up long layback section. Despite the lovely corner crack, a lot of people manage to take big grounders from here, so take care with your first few gear placements! Pull into recess, then bridge/layback/chimney up steep final section.
* Marooned 15m 20 (L)
Firm for 20, and not 20m. Needs some better pro before the first carrot (ie another bolt!) Quite pumpy for such a short crux section (the first and last 5m aren’t really worth talking about.) Most of this route tends to stay dry.
* Thunderfart 35m 14 (YP, P1)
P1 only - grade 8. Access for the new routes off the ledge, alternatively solo up dirty gully on the L to back of ledge then 4m chimney. The second pitch reportedly has more pro than it would appear.
Unknown 15m 20 (OS)
First route R of T. Off ledge to BB, then to glued-on flake (a dubious practice!!) and 2nd BB. The crux crimpy sequence leads to 3rd BB, then no jugs til chain. Ok.
** Noodles 15m 14 (OS)
Great steep jughaul - a must for leaders at the grade. Step R off ledge then short slab to BB. One reachy move to 2nd BB, then just keep swinging up those buckets. Maybe 13.
Lexical Density 15m 18 (OS)
3 stars?? No. Worthwhile though. Step R past 1st BB of N, then BB to FH. Crimpy moves then clip 2nd FH off jug, then easier.
* Mezzaluna 25m 16 (OS)
Worthwhile, but again not 3 stars, and overbolted. Easily to chossband, then pull over roof and mantle to break. Slightly R into crimps then veering back L of 5th & 6th BB - a nice section at the grade up a sheer wall, with a touch of exposure starting to kick in. Juggy 8m to DRB.
Technical Stuff 20m 17 (OS)
Worth doing. The new bolts don’t accept straight PFH hangers. Easily past cam to BB, and to undercling where arete steps L. Nice crux to gain crimp up high and to establish feet on arete, then pant your way up steep climbing to rest around arete. A few moves on the L of the arete to avoid blank section, then swing out R onto the face and nice jughauling to DRB.
To see what this crag looks like, have a look at my photos .
© 2002 Will