Will's Rock Climbing Page > Crags > AU > NSW > Blue Mountains > Mt. Piddington

Last updated: Oct '05

Mt. Piddington

The Word: The Bluey's finest crag, and one of the best in the country.
Sun/shade: Sun from 11am.
Wet weather options: Limited, but try Spartan, Sincerity, and the Cottage Boulder.
Style of Climbs: The lot - slabs, walls, overhung sport routes, corner cracks, beautiful square aretes and, best of all, bucketloads of classy splitter cracks. Mostly 15-50m high, with several rap descents requiring a 60m rope or two 50m ropes.
Grades: 8-27
Best Route(s): Too many to list! The hyperclassics are Eternity (*** 18), Psychopath (*** 17), Flake Crack (*** 17), Solomon (*** 20), Psychodrama (*** 22/23) etc etc etc . . . .

The Details: Definitely the best crag in the Blueys. The quality, quantity and variety of climbs here make this one of the classic climbing areas. Perhaps the best all-round crag I've been to. Enough here to do quality new climbs for many visits.

Access: 15min walk, 1hr45min drive from Sydney CBD, 3min drive from Mt Victoria. In Mt Victoria turn into Mt Piddington Rd. Take first L then first R. Park in wide area at saddle just before the lookout, and walk down R hand path. 100m from car drop down R past the gate, and continue approx 400m to the end, Hornes Point. Descend slightly to the L then walk back R under the cliffs. If walking from Mt Victoria, it's probably quicker to walk in via Renitz Pass, especially to Hocus Pocus.

A view of Mt. Piddington from the top of Corroboree Walls. Marked features are Solomon Buttress, Hocus Pocus Slabs, Cottage Boulder, Minotaur Wall, and Tombstone Wall.
Ahhhh Piddo...

Same angle, zoomed in to Mt. Piddington Right Side.
Ahhhh Piddo...

And here's Mt. Piddington Left Side.
Ahhhh Piddo...

Climbs described from R to L, facing the cliff (i.e. in the order accessed from Hornes Point).

* Descent Gully to Spartan Area

*** Eternity Area

*** Flake Crack Area

*** Janicepts Area

** Hocus Pocus Slabs

* Cottage Boulder

** Solomon Buttress

More Internet Sites on Mt. Piddington Climbing

Bureau of Meteorology Navigate to "North Central" - Seymour's weather is the closest.

Australian Maps Enter "Porepunkah" into the suburb field (and Victoria as the state).

Chockstone The best site on Victorian climbing, though you might get a bit of deja vu....

Onsight Photography A few great shots.

Parks Victoria Park information, downloadable maps, etc.

Rock Climbing Australia Grandiose name but only skimpy information.

TheCrag.com As always. Record your Buffalo ticks here, and see what everyone else is climbing.