Porter's Pass

The Word: One of the great sport crags making up "the Glen". The Crag Classic: Black Heathen (*** 24), La La Land (*** 24) The Hidden Gem: La La Land - until I laid eyes on it, it never seemed to register that it gets 3 stars! Looks fantastic. Sun/shade: Mostly shady, possibly late sun in summer. Wet weather options: Everything on Black Heathen wall, Chasing Ami area (though your gear gets wet). Style & Length of Climbs: Sportclimbing, mostly 20-30m. Just bring draws and a 60m rope (or 2 ropes). Rock type: Acres of fabulous orange Blueys sandstone, interspersed with your more normal grey walls. Available Grades; Best Grades: 21-29; 21-29 The Details: Not quite as convenient as the upper cliffline crags, but a great area nevertheless. Access: 15min walk. Same as Centennial Glen - from the end of Centennial Rd (same parking as for Shipley Upper), follow the walking track (not the old 4WD trail with locked gate) down to good views of Wave Wall across the gully. Down rock steps then turn R, and within 50m there's a fork in the track - veer L here (not R as for Centennial Glen), and follow the path down into the gully and then down rock steps beside the lovely creek (sometimes you'll get wet feet if the creek is up, but it's still ok). Descent(s): All routes have lower-offs (know how to thread safely!). Chasing Ami Area Once at the base of the cliffs, turn right around the base of the cliffs for about 150m. Chasing Ami is on a recessed orange slab capped by a big roof (with seepage drips off the lip after rain). ** Chasing Ami 25m 21 (OS) A beauty, which gets harder, thinner and reachier all the way. Further left is La La Land (*** 25m 24), shown on the right, with Chris on the crux and the waterfall in great condition after 40mm of rain in 24 hrs. . . .

La La Land (*** 25m 24)

Black Heathen (24) is R of centre in this photo, with chalk visible on it. The belay ledge is visible way down the bottom. Lloyd Wishart has a project (sent yet?) which blasts out the 8m roof at the very top of the wall - a wild position! Wipe Out (25) blasts up approximately in the middle of shot, skirting the R end of the two vegetated breaks down low. Sail Away (26 - upgraded from 24 and still a sandbag!) is between WO and BH. Mike Law's new addition Returnity (28) is a few metres R of BH. The two vegetated breaks at bottom left prevent climbing on the entire left end of the crag - what a travesty!! . .

The mighty 65m Sail Away Wall as viewed from below Woodpecker Wall.

*** Black Heathen 25m 24 (OS)
A total classic, and my first 24 flash to boot. A tricky start up a flake, a few reachy moves between breaks, then a longish sequence through a small roof to a cramped rest in a break. Above is a really hard move up a fused flake (reach past the crappy gaston off a good jam), then a great natural bucket seat provides a sit down rest. The crux follows immediately, a big reach off juggy flake to small pocket, cross through to next pocket, then crank to little crimps. High step into pockets then slap high left to jug in break. Continue up good flakes to lower offs.

Nicole on the initial tricky flake.

Nicole still going - notice the big amphitheatre behind and nice waterfall.

The long sequence through the little roof.

She's got the pockets - now for the rest of the crux....

Me on the initial tricky flake.

Me around halfway and still going - about to get to the hard move up the crappy flake (just L of me).

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