> Will's Climbing Page > Crags > Blue Mountains > Sublime Point

Sublime Point

The Word: Big cliffs, big climbs and big exposure.
Sun/shade: Sun from midday
Wet weather options: None.
Style of Climbs: Multipitch trad and mixed.
Grades: 11-25
Best Routes: Bentrovarto, Sweet Dreams.

The Details: Big impressive walls with frustrating rock quality. The Bentrovarto Wall and Swet Dreams Slab are both fine though. Bentrovarto Wall looks just amazing, a 100m wide by 100m high sheet of gently overhanging orange sandstone, and Colloseum Corner looks like an absolute classic.

Access: 2min walk to clifftop, 20-30min descent. 90mins drive from Sydney CBD, 3mins drive from Leura. From the carpark walk out to the point then down the climber's track which winds very steeply down - take care! Go back right along the ledge, just after the obvious orange Bentrovarto Wall the ledge all but disappears for several metres, rope up for this section. Sweet Dreams is then about 40m further and is pretty easy to find - it's where the path practically stops.

* Sweet Dreams 125m 14 (OS)
1) 20m Start 40m left of the Terror Traverse, at the faint initials. Past useless bolt, then up dirty corner to DBB.2) 25m Step L and follow flake and crack over bulge (crux) to DBB at small ledge. 3) 25m Veer diagonally R up into slab, past BB, then at second BB traverse past many bolts to TBB at small bushes. 4) 20m Wander R up ramp, then straight up wall left of chasm past 2 BB. Step over chasm for a bit of exposure, and continue to DBB in secluded ledge. 5) Continue up choss gully or do SDVF.

* Sweet Dreams Variant Finish 35m 16 (OS)
A nice little pitch waaaay up in the air. Head up wall L of choss gully above SD 4th belay. BB, then cruxy traverse left to flake (BB) and up past another BB. Continue nicely up wall, then mantle on left. Follow R-wards leading dirty ramp to tree belay.