the berg patagonia
gear
home
links
other stuff

The Amphitheatre


Towering over the Royal Natal National Park, this curved wall of basalt is certainly the most famous and most photographed section of the berg. Yet, despite the apparent invulnerability of the heights from below, it is easily accessed via its weak northern flank. An easy walk allows access to one of the most magnificent section of the high berg. It may not be a chance to commune alone with nature, but it certainly is a place to be awed by the shear size and splendor of the mountains. There are two variations when climbing to the summit. Both have the same initial approach, but vary in difficulty
The Chain Ladder
Beacon Buttress Gully

hain Ladder

Introduction:  This is the most used and easiest route to the top of the escarpment. Unfortunately this has resulted in weekends of congested car parks and eroded paths. However, for the less ambitious walker, little can compare with the ease with which you can access the lofty heights of the chain ladder. And despite the ease of the walk, the area is amongst the best of the berg. Some of the biggest drops are off the edge of the Amphitheatre, and the famous Tugela falls, the supposed 2nd highest waterfall on earth plummets from here

Access walk: Access is by car to well over 2500m. This means the resultant path could be considered a pass, and hence the details are below

Pass Route: The path is only 3km long, with a fair section being level. Most of the climb is behind one after the first kilometre, where the path zigzags up the side of the Sentinel. Once round the corner, it's a long contour and gentle climb to the chain ladders. Even the most timid person could force their way up the ladder on a fine summer's day, but the ladder can become exciting in the howling gale of a winter's day. Yet, there is no danger, and the ladders up nowadays are secure and relatively stable. If approached from the top one merely has to follow the highway along the top until three enormous cairns, from where the top of the ladders can be seen.

Water on Pass and Summit: You will need water for this climb. There is no water until the very top, where the tiny start of the Tugela provides the first reliable water. Its only a couple of hours from the car park, but the altitude can tire one out quickly

Caves and Campsites:  It is possible to stay at the car park, where there are a couple of bunks available. But don't rely on them, as the car park can be very crowded, especially over weekends. Once on top there is also the rangers hut, but one is supposed to bring a tent, and although people are allowed to sleep in the, it is generally reserved for emergency use. There is good camping close by. On the ascent Sentinel Cave is a possible place to stay, although it is badly polluted. Crows Nest Cave, towards Mont-Aux-Sources is much cleaner and a stunning place to awake.

return to list of passes

eacon Buttress Gully

Introduction: This variation on the walk to the top of the amphitheatre is one of my favourite little jaunts. A heady push up a steep gully to the very top of Beacon Buttress. The summit, looking out across the wall of the amphitheatre is as spectacular as any in the berg. due to the slightly higher rainfall here, the Ericas grow especially thick on the summit, and sitting sheltered in them, staring across at the bulk of the Sentinel, I can think of few better ways of recovering from a steep climb

Access walk: The access walk is identical to that for the route up to the chain ladder. Only, once you have rounded the back of the Sentinel, and are heading towards the escarpment, you head up the gully just after the low point between the Sentinel and the main escarpment. If you find yourself walking along beneath vertical basalts, you've gone too far. The path is alright, but indistinct compared to the highway leading up to the chain ladder

Pass Route: What needs to be said. Once you've found the gully, point yourself uphill and get walking. It's not overly steep, but you will have to be confident on steep ground, as it certainly is not horizontal. Still, aside from the odd unstable rock, its not dangerous. There is no one clear path, and especially when it chokes with snow in winter, you make your own route up. The summit is obvious. If you are looking for it from the top, climb Beacon Buttress, and the little dip you go through before the last island of rock that you view the Sentinel from is your cue to abuse the knees

Water on pass and Summit: Like the chain ladder, this is a dry walk. It takes a bit more energy, and is a much longer walk to water, so carry an extra litre or two

Caves and Campsites: The same applies here as it does for the chain ladder. There are no caves or campsites here that are not mentioned above.

return to list of passes