Mweni's Monsters

Access walk:The only way into the valley (by path) is a long haul straight from the police station. Instead on heading up the Mweni valley like the majority of passes in the area, one crosses the main river and continues on the east bank. Further on one ascends a spur away from the river and heads through the last cluster of huts. It's still a long haul through beautiful little berg before the pass begins. Due to the extensive use of this area by locals, the path is good. However, past the cave, the path peters out after a stunning section of Podocarpus forest. I would call this the real start of a very long pass as one comes through a narrowing in the sandstone, and can see the depths of the climb ahead. Access from the top is obvious if a little ominous

Pass Route:The map has a faint path marked, but despite an effort to follow this, I quickly gave up and navigated by what I thought was common sense. This is not the only route, but worked for me. I went straight up the boulder bed for as long as it was passable, before scrambling onto the grass banks on the western slopes. I then followed this up and around back onto scree. The final section is a steep boulder scree gully, narrow and potentially dangerous. It is the most eastern of the various gullies that head off from the scree slope. In winter it can become very iced, and the odd bit of climbing gear could prove useful. For the most part it's steep, but there are some tiny scrambles that get slippery in winter

Water on pass and Summit: Like most of Mweni, the water is a bit suspect until above the cave. From here there is plenty water until really high in the pass, provided that one keeps to the river. Water on the summit is a fair walk over the watershed and into a gentle valley in Lesotho.

Caves and Campsites:This is definitely a more than 1 day climb. Cycad cave provides good shelter, but is often occupied by locals. Further into the pass, the odd cleared patch provides good camping, but take care not to flatten the crops and anger the locals. Once on the summit, camping is as plentiful as always and the small Ifidi "cave" can be found a little back from the edge of the escarpment and slightly west of the summit

cidi

Access walk:The walk in is long, starting at the police station and swinging up the Mweni valley. About 30 minutes walk past the last kraal, you can see the Icidi valley across the river. On winding across, the path starts close to a beautiful series of pools close to the junction of the two rivers. It's a good path, keeping to the west bank of the Icidi river, and occasionally drifting some way above the river. Keep looking on the west bank when the path goes to the river, as each time it goes back onto that bank. Eventually you reach a spot where the river seems to come out of a narrowing, onto an area of broad flat basalt. I would call this the start of the pass proper, and the beginning of the challenge. The walk to this point is a long day from the police station, and it is probably better to camp earlier or use the caves

Pass Route: Often the greatest challenge of a pass is getting through the bit in the middle from where hard work only is needed. Icidi has a notoriously difficult middle section. Two impassable waterfalls confront anyone who misses the path. Unfortunately the path is all too easy to miss. The first waterfall is negotiated by ascending into the fynbos thicket on the eastern bank of the river. The path leaves at a level spot on the river where a outcrop of basalt forms the bed. It climbs sharply onto the plateau and continues above the river until the falls from where it is probably easier to stick on the river until you reach the next waterfall. This fall is negotiated on the western bank, again through clawing thicket. Once clear of the second falls, the river provides the easiest option until the grassed slopes beckon. The grass slopes are as steep as any in the berg, and remarkably long considering their gradient.

Water on pass and Summit:Obviously there is plenty water while you are on the river. However, not all of it is potable, and I would only be sure of it above the Icidi pools. Lower than this there is heavy cattle activity, and hence the water is a little polluted. On the long haul up the grassy slopes there is no water, and even some way into Lesotho water is scarce. Indeed, it can be a long walk in winter to get to a source of flowing river, some way into the interior.

Caves and Campsites:There are two caves on the approach. I've only used grasscutters, which is a shallow high overhang, providing little shelter. However, unlike most other caves in the area, it does not see much use by the locals and is hence a bit cleaner. The nearest cave on the plateau is at Ifidi, but this is barely a cave. And still a good 45 minutes walk away. Camping is excellent at the junction of the Icidi and Mweni rivers, and this small spot by the pools is often in use by trekkers. On the summit water is an issue, but the top of the pass is in a bit of a valley, and thus quite sheltered and ideal for camping.

bundini

Access walk:Like all the other passes in the Mweni valley, one tramps along the same old 20 odd kilometres from the police station. Once through this, one passes Shepherds cave before heading up the same valley that is home to the beautiful Fangs pass. In fact, until the start of the climb itself, the route in is the same as Fangs. It's a full day to the base, with the last couple of kilometres begin on an indistinct path that crosses the lovely little river a couple of times. Pay attention and look for cairns along the riverbanks. Again, the path sticks mostly to the western bank, so follow this if you loose the path

Pass Route:The path is indistinct going up the spur, and simple vanishes higher up. Initially it is not bad, sticking to the crest of the spur. However, further up there is an impassable basalt layer, and no path, so decisions need to be made. I stuck to the western slopes on my ascent, which look easier than either the northern slopes or the river. However, it takes a bit of planning to wind up through the many basalt layers. The crux comes close to the top where a massive slide has scourged the slope and one must traverse high up against the basalt cliffs to avoid it. From there it's a slog up the grassed slope to the top of the berg. The actual top is just south of Stimela peak and well marked.

Water on pass and Summit:Water can be a real issue on this pass as there is no reliable source from where the climb begins. Summer may sprout a couple tiny trickles, buy none of these can be relied on. On the summit it is a long downhill walk towards Fangs to a river in Lesotho. Due to the length of the pass (at least 4 hours had walking) one will get really thirsty, so bring a couple litres of water along, more if you plan to camp at the summit.

Caves and Campsites:The nearest cave up top is at Fangs, a full 200 metres below the top of the pass and 2 km south. Shepherds cave provides basic, if dirty shelter some way from the base. A tent allows the better option of camping closer to the base, where some level ground is too be found. The summit would be a great place to camp, providing stunning sunrise views if it wasn't for the long walk to fetch water. Still, if you have the energy to do the extra couple of kilometres to and from the river, the sunrise will make it all worth while

angs

Access walk: Like all the passes into the Mweni cutback, access is from the Iswandala police station. From there it's at least a day of hard walking to the base of this monster, which sheers off from The Mbundini route at a scenic but tiny waterfall. However, most people barely make the Mbundini valley on the first day, as this is a long 25 odd km from the police post. It's another hour and a bit to the junction of this pass and Mbundini. A convenient place to stop, as the path ends here and the pass proper begins. From the summit the pass leaves a low point relative to the surrounding mountains and should be no problem to find. Be aware that there are two routes, and the eastern one is best avoided, although it appears passable, and probably is.

Pass Route: I found no trace of a persistent route, although here and here there is some semblance of a path. My line of attack was straight up the river from the river junction until the grassed scree slopes. Its a long hard session on the boulders of the river bed to access these slopes, but once on the slopes, Fangs comes into its own. The myriad of turrets and spires have no equal in all the berg. It's a climb to savour, with no real difficulty once on the slopes. There is an indistinct path leaving the spur between this and Mbundini pass, about half way up. I haven't followed this, so can't vouch for where it accesses the main part of the pass and saw no cairns to point its entrance in to depths of the pass. There are two routes up through the basalts, but the western one is far more passable. The eastern one could be done at a push, but is probable best avoided, especially in winter.

Water on Pass and Summit: Water is readily available on the walk up to the junction with Mbundini. From here there is obviously water if you continue up the riverbed. However, if you elect to try the spur route, water could be an issue for quite a while. The grasses slopes to the summit have no little trickle for most of their length and hence the last couple hours of the climb can be dry. Once on the summit, its an walk over a tiny watershed heading east and a good few hundred metres into Lesotho before guaranteed water is found.

Caves and Campsites: Shepherds cave provides the best shelter for the approach day, although this is a dirty and poor shelter. Alright camping can be found at the intersection of the Mbundini and Mweni valleys and further up towards the pass proper. There are no good caves on the pass until the very summit, where the tiny lava tube of Fangs cave is good if small shelter at the summit of the eastern gully. I've heard rumours of a large cave in the pass, but have failed to locate it. Camping is good and sheltered around the summit of the pass, although a little far from water.

wanqua

Access walk: The access is a very long days walk, and finding the pass itself require attention to the map. You head up that familiar old Mweni valley, but continue on the North bank past the Fangs and Mbundini valley. Note that the path crosses here to access Mweni pass, but a faint trail allows you further up to the next valley heading off north. Its then a long pull through some relatively overgrown lower sections before you can begin the ascent of the relatively gentle grass slopes.

Pass Route:Once on the pass the southern slopes provide a good route to the top which is a grassed slope. There are a number of Basalt bands, but these can be easily negotiated with a little common sense. I did this beauty in mist, and with few landmarks, we still navigated without a problem. No path goes higher than the highest marijuana field in the little berg and a cairn marks the top, although obvious. Not too long or the steep the pass is still a fair challenge, and beautifully scenic.

Water on pass and Summit:The usual warning about Mweni water holds true here, although once past the last village, things should be fine. It's still a long pull to the base of the pass, but the beautiful clear river is safe all the way. The route we took up the pass was dry, as is the summit, so take a fair amount of water. It's still a fair walk to water over the top, but not as long as some other passes.

Caves and Campsites:Apparently a cave lurks somewhere in the throat of the pass, but to date its precise location has eluded me. Otherwise Shepherds provides a good half way stop for the walk in, but is certainly not right at the base. There is not much camping a lot closer to he bottom, yet the top has ideal camping terrain, both on the summit, and a bit down into Lesotho and closer to water

weni

Access walk:Access is a full day's trudge from the police outpost. It shares the same walk with Mbundini and Fangs passes. And the same overnight spots can be used. Soon after the junction of the Mbundini valley, one crosses to the southern bank of the Mweni river. The old Slingsby maps don't show this, but the path is there and fairly obvious. The path progresses further above the river until finally it starts to climb

Pass Route:There is no real defined start to this pass. The gradient simple gets steeper, as you slide up the southern bank of the Mweni river and head towards the distant gully summit. The crux comes with a traverse from the southern flank into the throat of the beast, and should you lose the path, the prospects become grim. The Gradient is not for the faint hearted, and although far from a rock pass, it requires some serious energy expenditure to climb. From above a couple of cairns mark the summit. There are two gullies and although both look passable, I can only vouch for the more commonly used western one

Water on pass and Summit: Mweni is a relatively dry pass. From when you cross the Mweni river at the start of the summit day, there is no guaranteed water until the distant Senqu river on the summit. If you are heading for Mponjwane cave, it's on the way, but otherwise it's a fair detour to rehydrate. Make sure you have as much water as you feel comfortable carrying at the base. The same warnings about water quality that apply throughout Mweni hold true here too

Caves and Campsites:Mponjwane and Ledgers caves are both easily reached from the top, although both are far. Ledgers is the closer of the two, a sometimes difficult to find overhang perched dramatically over the edge of the escarpment. Camping abounds as always on the summit. There is an alright place to camp close to the Crossing of the Mweni river at the base, and shepherds cave again provides the nearest passable cave.

ockeries

Access walk: Unlike the majority of Mweni passes, this route is not via the main Mweni valley. One beings the walk at the familiar police station, but after 6 km one continues up with the Ntolojana river as far as the next major river junction. A plethora of cattle passes head up this valley, and any one will take you clear of civilisation and into the deep valley that heads straight at the basalt wall. The path now carries on clearly along the South bank, well above the river. It's a solid days walk to the base of the pass, a junction of two rivers. The southern one comes off the interesting looking Nguzu rock pass, while the main river flows down the Rockeries valley

Pass Route: The regular passing of mules makes this a good path to walk, and after the initial scramble past the river at the base, an excellent path leads higher. It sticks to the western side of the valley, well clear of the river. Initially it climbs and contours, heading always roughly towards the summit. But further up it starts a series of gentle long zigzags. Don't be tempted to take the short cuts to miss the good path unless you are in top shape and have a low environmental ethic. They are no shorter time wise as the steep gradient will grind most people to a wheezing halt. The pass gently tops out above the plains behind Mponjwane, giving a magnificent view across to the hidden recesses of the cutback. It's easy to locate from the top, as the path is strong, and obvious. There are no easily confusing other gullies going off here, making this a good escape route in bad weather

Water on pass and Summit: The access walk has plenty of water, although it is mostly a bit dodgy due to the cattle and villages. Above the last village it is certainly drinkable. At the base of the pass is the last major stream. You cross two much smaller trickles further up, but the last half of the climb is dry. Over the top it's a long walk through to the Orange river, which can be fairly dry in winter.

Caves and Campsites: Mponjwane cave lies a kilometre from and a few hundred metres above the pass summit. It's a stunning cave, if rather poorly cared for. The big hassle with the cave is the lack of close water, and in winter it's a long hard walk to top up the bottles in the Orange river. At the base a small cave (whose name escapes me now -please mail me a reminder) can only hold 4 or 5. There are a couple more caves further off the beaten track, but these are heavily used by the locals. Camping on the approach is not very good, except in the last 500m before the base of the pass, which has a few level areas. The summit, on the other hand, has an abundance of level areas, although a little unprotected. Care should be taken to ensure all belongings are in tents at all times, as drug running mule trains come through at night, especially around full moon