In fields of green below walls of white


The 9th of May in Pokhara, Nepal

The horizon is lined in white. A massive jaw of snowed on peaks. Sitting here in Pokhara, from the molar like Dhaulagiri in the west, through the positively canine Machhapuchhre directly above, to the mystical Annapurna II in the east its an impressive sight. One that recent rains have revealed in amazing clarity. When first I got to Pokhara, I could not even see the hills, let alone the mountains, so its great to be here now. The city is flushed in wet floral spring green, filled with the happily courting birds. I have settled in well, and know the people at my various ports of call (the couple of restaurants I frequent, the drinks stall, here at the internet spot and my cheap but clean hotel). It will be a pity to leave for the Bustle of Kathmandu in the morning. But enough reminiscing, I have stories to tell. I left off promising to continue updating the homepage further (and with a shameless but profitable plug for the café here).Instead, predictable, I went trekking.

But first the circuit. I found myself trying to eat my weight in Chocolate Apple Strudel in Marpha after what I would think is my most adventurous trek to date. After a day of sheer gluttony, I headed up the valley, against the general flow of traffic, to the magical medieval town of Kagbeni. The end of the road for most tourists, the forbidden zone continues to the north. Permits set you back $700, and only 1000 westerners a year are allowed in. So one must turn east and push for the pass. The next stop was Muktinath. It's a very holy site for both Hindus and Buddhists. A holy spring it channeled through 108 ornately carved fish mouths for the former, and an eternal natural gas flame burns inside deep in a sheltered temple for the latter. Prayer flags flutter everywhere, and I rather liked the spot. The hotels are fill of relieved and sore trekkers, who have just come over the pass. The reason that most people go anticlockwise around the circuit is that it's a 600 to 950m climb from that side up gentle gradients to summit the 5416m pass. The way I went is a long and often steep 1700m haul to the summit. Most people have neither the fitness nor the acclimatization to attempt such a stretch, and I was looked at as rather loopy by my fellow trekkers. Especially as I started from the hotel furthest from the pass in town. But I had the secret weapon of a couple days over 5000m in my bloodsystem, so headed up with confidence. In the end I went over in just over 7 hours, which most people struggle to do the other way. And that includes over an hour recovering on the summit before running down. I must admit to pushing a little to try to break the 5 hour barrier on the climb, but failed and got to the top very fatigued. It's a very easy pass were it not for the altitude, but this did not trouble me at all, and still I wonder what altitude sickness is like!

I took a couple shorts days coming down before getting rather misplaced trying a side trip from the other side. I followed instructions meant for those approaching from the normal route, and ended up a few km off the route in high Tibetan facies environments. Very beautiful and remote, but I had a hair raising and frankly dangerous traverse to try to get back on track. I was heading for Tilicho base camp, and in the end had to descend 600m and reclimb most of it again to safely get back on route. As I'd also run out of water (pretty dry, the high side of the Himalayas) so had a very tough time. Yet, once I saw the base camp, all was better. Its 600m below the high point one reaches (4800m) and nothing but smooth steep scree separates you from there. A 600m scree run is something I've always dreamed about, and the sliding running flying 10 minute drop is one I will remember for a long time. As is Tilicho base camp. A great cook and chap ran this isolated little hut, and a couple of Australian twins were good company. I took another day off here and just relaxed below a wall of fluted white peaks before heading up to the lake the next day. Reputably the worlds highest at 4900m(I've heard that one more than twice), it's a recessed big flat expanse of ice, 3 by 5km and fed by glaciers coming straight off the mountain face. Truly a magical and little visited spot, I spent a couple hours gazing out at what really does look like a Bolivian Salar. After the descent and more good food, I headed out the following morning for Manang, an easy 6 hours away. From there it was really just a ramble downhill to the end. I took my time through the beautiful next three days, walking opposite some awesome peaks and through a narrow winding gorge of a valley in lush conifer and deciduous forest. Eventually one starts to clear the stunning section, and the last day and a half saw the hammer go down as I embarked on some Mweni style thundering down the trail.

My bus ride back here, after 24 days on the trail reminded me that wheeled things are not all they are cracked up to be, and it took three buses, a broken axle and 7 rather hot (but scenic) hours on the roof to get back to civilization. I was here only two days, doing the last update, getting another permit and cleaning some festy clothes, before heading off up the Annapurna Base Camp trek. A short walk, it's a fair climb and filled with trekkers. I caught flu or something because the power had left my legs. I'd lightened the pack by leaving the stove and tent behind (to be replaced by books and a walkman) but still felt very weak and wobbly. It was rather educational walking at the pace of the masses. I'd planned a high speed dash for the inner sanctum, but had to live with a protracted 4 day crawl! For the first three days I was actually walking the recommended times, and feeling tired doing it. (normally I just halve them and cruise along comfortably at that pace) Rob, I now know what you felt like on the otter trial, and frankly, its shite!

But I made it in the end. I was up for another recovery day at ABC, but did not get far out of camp. The illness had affected my acclimatization and even though this was only 4100m, I was very short of breath. Still, the location more than made it worth the effort, with some beautiful alpine birds and flowers to keep me going. And remarkable food, all things considered. I woke feeling very bad for the descent. But though my body moaned, the legs came through, and I ended up walking out at respectable speed. The monsoon has pretty much arrived, with daily showers that cool things nicely and end the days walking. Which meant I took 3 days to return rather than the two it should take. The last day was another high speed effort, but higher up I simply rolled through the lovely forest. Its all bamboo and Rhondodendons and various deciduous stuff, which buzzes with unusual birds. As does Pokhara at present, and my little list for the trip is teetering on the brink of 100 new species (want a list Ant?). Its off tomorrow to the big city, for a couple of days tourism, before my legs once more are swung out along another month long trial.