Climbing Australia__________________________________________Tasmania
This page:
Adamsfield
Bare Rock
Ben Lomond
Cataract Gorge
Coningham
Federation Peak
Fortescue Bay
Frenchmans Cap
Freycinet
Tasmania 2:
Freuhauf
Geryon & The Acropolis
Grasstree Hill
Gunner's Quoin
Handsome Crag
Kempton Quoin
Mt Killiecrankie
Larks Edge
Mad Monkey Crag
Tasmania 3:
Monkey's Bum
Mount Brown
Mount Wellington
North Esk
Proctors Road Quarry
Rocky Tom
Sisters Beach

Adamsfield
Number of routes
About 50.

Climbing style
Adamsfield provides Tasmanian climbers with a very different medium to climb. The rock is very steep conglomerate as opposed to the columnar dolerite of most Tassie crags, and the area is the most well-known Tassie sport climbing area. The area has the State's only all-bolt ethic to avoid tatty threads and dodgy gear and has the highest concentration of hard, steep routes in Tasmania. A good flat and sheltered camping area exists behind Pyramid Rock, but there is no water. There are also a couple of caves formed by the boulders. Although the crag isn't in the National Park you have to pay the entry fee to be able to get there.

Guidebook
• As for most Tassie areas, buy the excellent "Craglets" (4th edition) paper guide.
• For the same info as in the paper guide and great photos, check out the Craglets online route guide.

How to get there [click for map]
Most of this info comes directly from the Craglets online route guide. Thanks to Roger Parkyn and Sam Edwards. The Adamsfield cliffs are situated at Grid reference 715430 on the Wedge 1:100 000 map at the northern end of the Ragged Range, about 35 km past Maydena. Once you have driven past Maydena, continue into the National Park along the Gordon River road, driving past the Scotts peak dam turn off (Frodshams Pass). About 5 km on from here, the road will be heading downhill. After passing several minor offshoots, a sign indicates "Clear Hill Road", follow this.

Turn right down the road and drive for 16 km (from the Gordon Road) until a large boulder sticks out on the right, nearly overhanging the road (this is the climb Roadkill!). A top-rope problem also exists on this boulder and is about grade 17. Only 50 metres on from this it is possible to park on the left, opposite a slimy looking bank. Walk up this bank with a little difficulty, then head up to the right through bracken and bushes for about 100 metres to the large boulder. This boulder is known as The High Wire. Follow the blue tapes up the hill to the top of the hill to find Pyramid Rock and the Bear Pit, follow the orange tapes to the Trapeze.

Associated links and references
• Craglets (4th edition) paper guide
Craglets online guide and photos
Nermut's overview and photos

Picture courtesy Roger Parkyn
Above: Sam Edwards working Forearm Flameout (27).
Photo: Roger Parkyn


Bare Rock (Fingal)
Number of routes
Under 20 routes on a huge dolerite face.

Climbing style
The rock is dolerite and towers to 200m in height. However, it's not regular Tasmanian dolerite in the sense that it isn't regularly columnar and so there isn't an overabundance of "straight-up" cracks. The climbing is serious due to the patches of loose rock (wear helmets) but there are some absolute stunning bolted, slabby multipitches, such as The Sapphire Rose (22) which are a must if visiting this crag.

Guidebook
• Craglets 4th edition has a good section on Fingal.

How to get there [click for map]
First you must check with the owners, Trevor and Sue Berryman to obtain permission (they live at Fingal and can be contacted on 03 6374 1002). The cliff is usually closed for a period in Spring for falcon nesting.

Directly behind Fingal, in the Fingal valley about an hour from Launceston. These next directions directly from Craglets. Take the first R-hand turn (Legge St) upon entering the town and drive south towards the highly-visible cliff past several intersections until the road curves R and then back L. Continue straight ahead along a track to a locked gate (2.2km from main road) with "Tresspassers Prosecuted" sign. Continue through gate following the track wich turns sharply L, descends past an old wooden shed, then gains an old rocky road leading up a small hill to another gate, giving access to a paddock. Cross the paddock to a gate. Trend L up hill to the rough road just over its crest which leads to within 100m of the cliff.

Associated links and references
• Craglets (4th edition) paper guide
Nermut's overview and a pic


Ben Lomond
Picture courtesy Simon Carter
Above: Defender Of The Faith (21), Robin's Buttress.
Photo: Simon Carter
Number of routes
A few hundred routes over many different areas.

Climbing style
Soaring dolerite columns pitch skyward for 200m and more. All natural protection with an anit-bolt ethic. Take a big rack and tape for your hands. The climbs are often unrelentingly sustained and at an elevation of 1300m, have an alpine feel almost unique in Australia. Needless to say, this is essentially a summer-only cliff.

Guidebook
• As for most Tassie areas, buy the excellent "Craglets" (4th edition) paper guide.
• Previous work was done by R. McMahon.
• Nermut has done an online topo to Robin's Buttress on Frew's Flutes.

How to get there [click for map]
Ben Lomond is located some 50 km south-east of Launceston. From Launceston, take the road to Ben Lomond road. Turn off to Carr Villa and park there. Up to the L is the Pavillion, about 20 minutes walk. Directly above Carr Villa at the top of the scree is Local Loser cliff (described in Craglets). The huge columnar cliff off to the R is Frew's Flutes (also in Craglets) which is accessed by a 30 minute walk across the scree, stay high to avoid the scrub. The cliff further R of the Flutes with the weird architecture is Heathcliffe. Most crags are accessable by a one hour walk or less, although some of the more remote areas require a two hour trek.

Associated links and references
• Craglets (4th edition) paper guide
Nermut's overview and photos


Cataract Gorge (Launceston)
Number of routes
A few hundred over dozens of buttresses.

Climbing style
Short dolerite buttresses with climbs ascending cracks and corners with natural protection. Modern routes have branched out onto aretes with bolt protection. There are two main areas of the Gorge: the Sunny Side and the Shady Side.

Guidebook
• "Craglets" (4th edition) paper guide has an interim guide to the Gorge.
Craglets Gorge Update with new routes and corrections to the paper guide.
• Nermut has done an online mini-guide to the Gorge with good topos.

How to get there [click for map]
One of the best things about the Gorge is the access. Simply drive down Paterson Street and park five minutes from the centre of Launceston in the Penny Royal car park. From there, walk to the closest side of Kings Bridge and up the Zig Zag track. Within a few minutes you should start passing the buttresses. Most of the climbing is on the down side of the track - there are eroded foot pads to most of the more popular areas. To get to Duck Reach get hold of a tourist map and follow it to the old Duck Reach power station. Walk down to the river and upstream to the buttresses. For Riverbend, drive out through St. Leonards to Corra Linn. A couple of hundred metres past the bridge is a gate on the left hand side of the road. Walk from here across the paddocks for around 10 minutes to reach the crags above the river. Thanks to Nermut for access info.

Associated links and references
• Craglets (4th edition) paper guide
Craglets Gorge Update
Nermut's overview and photos
Nermut's online mini-guide with topos


Coningham
Number of routes
Around 15.

Climbing style
This is a tiny little Hobart craglet, no more than about 12m in height. Despite the size of the crag, there are some fine little sandstone routes to be had. In addition, the crag is situated right on the beach so is quite pleasant. The climbing is quite varied with steep faces, corners, slabs and one pumpy offwidth!

Guidebook
• "Craglets" (4th edition)

How to get there
This info from Craglets (which also has a good map). Located only 20 minutes from Hobart. From Hobart, drive south to Kingston via the Southern Outlet. Just before Kingston, take the R-hand lane and continue through Margate and Snug. About 1km past Snug, the turn-off to the L leads along the shore to Coningham Beach. Park here and walk down the steps about 50m on from the beach. Follow the path down to the shore, then south above the shore for a couple of hundred metres. Within minutes the small sandstone cliffs are found below you.

Associated links and references
• Craglets (4th edition) paper guide


Federation Peak
Number of routes
Unknown.

Climbing style
Federation Peak is a huge quarzite fang located in the Eastern Arthur range, in Tasmania's South West. For serious bushwalking peak-baggers, this is probably Australia's greatest prize. It is one of Australia's few genuine mountains, and is home to Australia's longest climbs with sections of rockface up to 500m high. Despite the great rock and huge routes, the area sees little visitors, due to its remoteness, seriousness, and usual bad weather. Also in the general area is the Western Arthur range which is one of Tasmania's premier bushwalking areas - and also home to dozens of quartzite crags.

Guidebook
• There is an old guide produced by the CCT which is hard to obtain. Nermut may be putting it online, so keep an eye on his page.

How to get there [click for map]
If planning a trip you will have to look more carefully into access, however there are several differing approach routes, the shortest involving a strenuous full day's walk from Farmhouse Creek.

Associated links and references
Nermut's overview and pics
• Rock #28 has a good article and pics on Federation Peak

Picture courtesy Reg Williams
Above: The NW face of Federation Peak.
Photo: Reg Williams.


Fortescue Bay (Tasman Peninsular)
Picture courtesy Roger Parkyn
Above: Stefan Eberhard on Ancient Astronaut (24),
The Moai, Fortescue Bay.
Photo: Roger Parkyn
Number of routes
A couple of routes on each of three, free-standing coastal spires, and numerous routes on surrounding coastal cliffs.

Climbing style
Thanks to Simon Carter's picture and poster, The Free Route (25) on the Totem Pole is most likely Tasmania's most well-known route, and has led to a resurgence of climbing in the Fortescue Bay region. The bay features three dolerite pillars (The Totem Pole, The Candlestick and The Moai) as well as many other seaside dolerite cliffs. Many routes are bolted, but the atmosphere definitly adds an air of adventure to the climbs here. Not a place you're likely to forget!

Guidebook
• Craglets (4th edition) paper guide

How to get there [click for map]
Fortescue Bay is a bit over an hours drive from Hobart. The Candlestick and the Totem Pole can be reached by an hour's walk to Cape Huay from Fortescue Bay, which you turn off to several kms before Port Arthur. The Safe House is located in a small inlet about 0.5km from the end of Cape Huay. Follow the directions in Craglets. In addition, the excellent map in Craglets would be invaluable in finding your way around.

Associated links and references
• Craglets (4th edition) paper guide
• Craglets has done online slide shows of The Candlestick and The Totem Pole
• Craglets also has a route description and some pics
• Nermut has done a nice overview and some good pics


Frenchmans Cap
Number of routes
Up to 100 routes scattered across the mountain.

Climbing style
An alpine feel. Probably the most popular large wall climbing in Tasmania, but still sees very few visitors. The rock is spectacular white quartzite which is compact and solid for the most part, and routes can be quite run-out because of this. Fixed protection is very rare, although you might find some fixed pitons and the odd bolt.

Guidebook
• Frenchmans Cap, Stephen Bunton, included with the Jan-Jul 1990 Rock magazine. The guide can be obtained
online at Nermut's site
• Here is an excellent topo

How to get there [click for map]
Thanks to Nermut for this info. Two to three hours drive from Hobart along the Lyell Highway there is a signposted carpark where the walking track to Frenchman's Cap starts. From here it is a full day's walk (25km) to Tahune Hut, where most climbers camp. From the hut it is a relatively short walk to the base of the mountain. See the Notesheet for Frenchmans Cap Track for more information.

Associated links and references
Online guide
Nermut's overview and pics
Craglets slide show
Notesheet for Frenchmans Cap Track


Freycinet
Number of routes
Hundreds of routes over many different large coastal crags.

Climbing style
Different crags offer different climbing but for the most part, Freycinet offers nice routes on quality granite. Coles Bay has spectacular long routes on ultra-solid rock and Lassie's Wall and Whitewater Wall offer perhaps the best beginner climbing in the State. Most routes require natural protection, but there are some sport areas such as the Underworld at Coles Bay. The Hazards offers long multipitch lines, and the remote Flowstone Wall features breathtaking slabs.

Guidebook
• 1996 Climbers Guide to Freycinet Peninsula (published by TUCC & CCT).
• Craglets has put together an online update to the 1995 guide.
• Craglets (4th edition) paper guide has an update to the area with one new big route.

How to get there [click for map]
Half way up the East coast, two hours from both Launceston and Hobart. From Coles Bay, take the road to the Sleepy Bay and Cape Tourville lighthouse and turn L onto the Whitewater Wall road to end up above the sea cliffs. To reach Main Wall (long slab routes) walk along the coast south from Sleepy Bay. There is a camping area at the top of Whitewater Wall (no water). There is also camping and other accommodation in Coles Bay. National Park entrance fees apply.

Associated links and references
Info about camping and looking after the area
Nermut's overview and photos
• Australia's Climb magazine #5 has a great article on Coles Bay with excellent photos.

Picture courtesy Michael Myres
Above: Jay Audenart on Nunc Dimitis (26), The Underworld,
Coles Bay, Freycinet. Photo: Michael Myres


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