AfriCat through the French Canals |
These are some corrections and general comments to accompany the
Navicarte books we used for our trip.
We entered the Seine at Le Havre, went via the Canaux du Centre and
exited at Sete. The journey took us a
little over 6 weeks. For those who are interested I have produced separate documents, containing details of the marinas and anchorages we used along the way, budget information
and canals Navicarte updates. |
Essential Equipment |
Tyres - must be tied on with 2 separate ropes,
cover them and you will not be hassled.
Have some with holes in, for lowering into the water (holes allow them
to sink) when alongside sloping sides. |
Fender board - at least one |
Poles - we used a pair of 2"x 2" poles
about 2.5m long. These were used as
fender boards as well as keeping us off sloping sides while moored
overnight. Think about how to attach
to your boat beforehand, make sure you have any necessary padding. |
Mooring spikes - order from a canal boat chandler
or make your own |
Navicarte 1 |
PK 355 |
Honfleur |
You can moor
alongside the wall in Avant Port or go into basin, you are charged the
same. Shower tokens are 10FF, clean
and warm. Laundromat and Champion
supermarket about 500m up the main street from the back of marina. Mast can be lowered for around 400FF, go
through 2 bridges to second basin.
Honfleur to Rouen must be done in one run, there are one or two
possible stopping points but none seem comfortable or safe. |
PK 242 |
Rouen |
Halte Plaisance
de Rouen is good value at 60FF all inclusive. There are not many free spaces, lots of liveaboards. The lights in the shower cubicle are
triggered by locking the door, there are no light switches. There is a small Co-op, butchery, bakery
and laundromat 50m from the front gate.
The VNF office is on the bridge over the river , as you come up the
steps from the halte towards town.
There is a big supermarket on south bank. There are various banks (including Barclays) in the town (north
side) as well as internet cafes and good markets. Leave Rouen for the first lock as PK 202 about 1 hour BEFORE LW
Rouen, in order to travel with the least current against you (it never turns,
only slackens). |
Pg 80 |
|
Pt
g'Oissel & de l'autoroute photo's are switched around |
PK 202 |
Ecluses
d'Amfreville |
Huge
lock; straight, solid sides; bollards, ladders and recessed bollards; fender
boards useful near ladders; minimal turbulence |
PK 199 |
|
bras
de Cornelles route is scenic.
However, there is a new bridge in the small offshoot to the Le Moulin
restaurant mooring. There are many
suitable private moorings - ask before using any of these. Many of the sites marked as possible
moorings on the chart will prove to be very high to get ashore, and will
require fender boards. |
PK 176 |
Club
Paris-Normandie |
VERY
tight, full, a little neglected. |
PK 174 |
|
Short
stop quay for shopping. Floating
pontoon. Yacht harbour has alongside
berthing on floating pontoons for visitors. |
PK 161 |
Ecluse
de ND de la Garenne |
Bollards,
ladders & recessed bollards; straight walls; automatic |
PK 157 |
Port
St Gabriel |
Some
rickety alongside pontoons - no facilities - looks abandoned. Inner island route is very scenic. |
PK 150 |
Vernonnet
YC |
5FF/metre/night. Shower, water, electric, alongside
pontoon. Diesel from garage
~500m. Supermarket, bakery across
road. Laundromat, all shops across
river in Vernon. |
PK 145 |
Former
lock |
Nice
mooring place, still solid, some liveaboards. |
Near most of the locks there are bankside
moorings (bollards) for waiting - you could spend the night if you stop late
and leave early. Long ropes and
fender board needed. |
PK 110 |
Limay |
Free
halte. Single boat length pontoon,
solid. Water & rubbish
facilities. Also numerous bankside
moorings. |
PK 99 |
bras
de Me'zy route |
numerous
bankside moorings, very scenic |
PK 93 |
Meulan |
Free
Halte, single boat length pontoon |
PK 91 |
bras
de Vaux route |
very
narrow but lovely |
PK 84 |
|
bridge
under construction |
PK 81 |
Port
Saint-Louis |
heard
numerous bad reports, looks derelict. |
PK 69 |
Ambience
Yachting |
VERY
tight, full. |
PK 63 |
La
Frette |
Free
halte, floating pontoon, bakery & small café behind church; market,
butcher up in the main town. 3
restaurants along waterside. Sewage
pumping station, wash hands after touching ropes! |
PK 48 |
Bougival |
Free
halte; single boat length floating pontoon; noisy as right under bridge;
diesel from garage in Croissy (about 1km) |
PK 45 |
Chatou |
Free
halte, under bridge so noisy. |
From here into Paris there are very few places to
stop. All marked stopping places have
been taken up by liveaboards. Moor
alongside a barge if needed. |
PK 29 |
Port
Sisley |
Full
of liveaboards! Looks a bit rickety. |
PK 24 |
Port
Van Gogh |
Full of liveaboards! |
Most of the advertised fuel pontoons are not
really suitable for yachts; very high sides and huge hoses. |
PK 17 |
Ecluses
de Surenes |
recessed
bollards, ladders, straight sides |
PK 15 |
Marina
de la passerelle de l'Avre |
big,
rusty-coloured floating "building"; does not appear to have any
free spaces |
PK 13 - 12 |
Jeanneau
sales quay |
a
possible mooring overnight |
From PK 12 towards Paris : note the shanty towns
under the bridges and the homes inside the abandoned storage spaces along the
river walls |
PK 0/PK
168 |
Paris Arsenal |
50% extra for
multihulls. Recessed floating
bollards on port side of lock (entering) only. |
Navicarte 2 |
The best time to do the last section into Paris
is early morning, aiming to arrive at PK 0 around 9am. This means you will miss all the mayhem
caused by the pleasure boats. Any
overnight stop at PK15 the previous night and an early start should let you
make this. Alternatively, use St
Denis canal. |
PK 155 |
ANVT |
seems okay,
alongside floating pontoon, lots of cleats |
PK 150 |
Albon
9 |
no
recessed bollards |
PK 148 |
Port
Premier |
Full
of liveaboards; some bankside moorings just before port |
PK 146 |
Port
aux Cerises |
Full
of yachts |
Many of the 'club nautique' have pontoons but
they appear to be for dingies |
PK 134 |
Port
Nicholas |
no
sign of anything! |
PK 131 |
Port
Asaintry |
small
motorboats only |
PK 130 |
Coudray
7 |
need
fenderboards, straight sides but corrugated so fenders are useless. |
PK 123 |
old
lock |
no
space, full of liveaboards! |
PK 119 |
Port
Roi |
supposedly
good but narrow dog-leg entrance; entrance not sign-posted, low steel girder
is entrance bridge. On opposite bank,
landing stage outside St Assissi Centre is a good stop - floating pontoon
with good cleats |
PK 112 |
Port
de Plaisance |
VERY
tight, full |
PK 93 |
Samois-sur-Seine |
new,
solid wall; big cleats; very picturesque |
PK 91 |
restaurant |
"Auberge
de Rosiers" quay is in a bad state of disrepair |
PK 90 |
Port
Stephane Mallorne |
floating
finger pontoons, some outside berths, good condition |
Navicarte 6 - Canaux du Centre |
When referring to port and starboard, I am
relating to travel in the Paris to Sete direction. |
Canal du Loing |
All locks along this route are straight-sided (no
sloping locks). NOTE that even the
"automatic" locks have a lunch break from 12 - 1pm! |
PK 49 |
St
Mammes |
new,
alongside pontoons at the Port de Plaisance.
Bankside moorings available between peniches in stretch towards first
lock. Sloping sides so need poles to
keep yourself off |
PK 19 |
Souppes |
stbd
- new quay with electricity, water, bollards |
PK 15 |
Neronville |
stbd
- good halte |
Canal du Briare |
PK 56 - 55 |
|
stbd
- just before first bridge after lock there is a quay. About 100m back there is a big InterMarche
and garage, not visible from the river. |
PK 35 - 34 |
|
free
halte to stbd just before lock; 5FF shower tokens from store, bakery |
PK 29 - 28 |
|
stbd - halte just
after bridge, before bridge. |
PK 10 |
Moulin-Neuf
8 |
a
section of the lock to port is collapsing (below water line), be aware |
Canal lateral a la Loire |
The lockkeepers in this section only officially
start at 9:30am. If you want to
travel earlier, you must let them know the previous day. REMEMBER to mention ALL the locks, as well
as ETA, through which you plan to pass before 9.30am, else only the first one
will be expecting you. Also, ALWAYS
remember to let lock keeper know when you stop for the day! From here on, the canal sides are sloping
so sound in carefully when looking for a spot to moor. |
PK 192 |
location
de VTT |
about
5 pontoons, showers etc. Also,
possible mooring alongside peniches / barges at bankside. Charges. |
PK 184 |
|
Nice
halte; 26FF inclusive. 6FF shower
tokens. |
PK 174 - 173 |
Houards
36 |
sells
Sancerre wine between 32 - 42 FF; comparable to prices at Sancerre itself and
a good PR exercise if you buy! |
PK 168 - 167 |
|
stbd
- just before bridge, quay with bollards |
PK 165 on |
|
lots
of bankside moorings |
PK 159 - 158 |
|
stbd
- InterMarche, flat-sided quay, need spikes |
PK 159 - 158 |
St
Thibault |
sloping
sides |
PK 157 |
|
stbd
- free halte, sloping sides, 10FF shower token, 10FF water |
PK 151 |
|
stbd
- straight metal sides and bollards |
PK 144 - 143 |
|
stbd
- halte, straight sides and bollards |
PK 138 - 137 |
Charmetant |
No
space at halte on pontoons |
PK 128 |
halte |
stbd
- not very safe, shallow and hard sill |
PK 126 - 125 |
halte |
stbd
- just before bridge, lots of bollards, straight sides, all facilities ~45FF |
PK 123 - 122 |
|
stbd
- very nice private, free halte.
Gardens, bollards, showers, book swap. |
PK 120 |
|
stbd
- free halte (incl. Showers). Diesel
~ 100m (right at bridge) |
REMEMBER that most places close on a Monday, the
occasional exceptions being the Tabac (pub) and the boulangerie
(bakery). Bakers often close on Tues
or Wed instead. |
PK 103 - 102 |
halte |
stbd
- 30FF |
From now on, many of the locks are handled by a
single lockkeeper (typically 2 - 3, sometimes 6). They will travel with you on bike or by car, you may have a bit
of a wait if traffic is already moving through. |
PK 81 - 80 |
|
stbd
- just after bridge, nice quay with bollards; restaurant and pub close by. |
PK 76 |
|
port
- nice quay, deep alongside. Rural
and quiet, no shops. |
PK 69 |
|
port
- just before bridge; InterMarche, steel sides |
PK 52 |
|
stbd
- lots of space |
PK 41 - 40 |
halte |
stbd
- just after bridge; floating pontoon |
PK 38 - 37 |
Beaulon
8 |
fresh
eggs for sale, 20FF / dozen |
PK 20 - 19 |
halte |
stbd
- just before bridge; quaint town |
PK 5 |
Port |
stbd
- first night free, chandlery |
Canal du Centre |
PK 103 - 101 |
halte |
prt
- the whole way along. Lovely town,
especially backstreets around church. |
PK 82 - 81 |
|
stbd
& prt - just before lock, moorings both sides |
PK 79 - 76 |
|
banksides
collapsing, unsafe, rocks |
PK 64 |
halte |
stbd
- excellent; floating pontoons, 9FF per night incl. Shower, 15FF water and
electricity (225FF / month, 1650FF / year!);
good market on Sat |
PK 61 |
halte |
prt
- just after bridge, water and electricity |
PK 47 - 46 |
|
stbd
- just after lock; deep, straight tie-up quay |
PK 46 |
museum |
closes
for lunch 12 - 3pm |
PK 33 |
Port |
stbd
- under construction. The bollards
just after bridge have rocky, sloping sides. |
PK 24 |
halte |
prt
- nice; note advert for wine cave
that delivers to your boat! |
PK 17 - 16 |
halte |
stbd
- just after lock 26 |
PK 8 - 7 |
halte |
prt
- last stopping place before lock 34b |
PK 4 |
lock
34b |
2
green laser boxes to stbd, around 120m from lock, trigger the lock mechanisms |
PK 0 / 142 |
Chalon Port |
good
facilities, HUGE Carreforre; 87FF inclusive |
Navicarte10 - La Saone |
NOTE : Always wear lifejackets when entering locks
on the Soane / Rhone. It is
compulsory and there is a 1000FF spot fine, which has been issued
before. The same applies to paperwork,
you must carry originals - although I recommend having copies for day-to-day
use, only producing originals if requested. |
PK 123 |
Old lock |
30FF; quaint
& spacious |
PK112 |
halte |
downstream
(d/s) stbd - solid quay before bridge, floating pontoon after bridge; free;
Hotel de Saone pontoon is only single boat length |
PK 98 - 97 |
|
d/s
prt - floating pontoon just after bridge |
PK 91 - 90 |
|
d/s
prt - very small boats only |
PK 85 - 84 |
Pt
Nord de Macon |
tidal
marker for the various bridges through Macon |
PK 81 - 80 |
|
d/s
prt - bollards and floating pontoon |
PK 73 - 72 |
|
d/s
stbd - good floating pontoon, snack bar / restaurant |
PK 64 - 63 |
|
d/s
prt - quay just after bridge is unsuitable |
PK 61 |
Former
lock |
no
mooring allowed |
PK 55 - 54 |
|
d/s
stbd - floating pontoon, good depth, water |
PK 53 |
|
d/s
prt - floating pontoon at café / restaurant |
PK 52 |
|
d/s
prt - good mooring |
PK 43 |
Nautic
01 |
small
boats only |
PK 42 - 41 |
|
new
bridge |
PK 31 - 30 |
|
d/s
prt - neither moorings look inviting |
PK 26 |
former
lock |
mooring
possible but full |
PK 23 |
|
d/s
stbd - floating pontoon, single boat length |
PK 23 - 22 |
Yachting
69 |
d/s
stbd - floating pontoons, looks good |
PK 22 |
|
d/s
stbd - floating pontoon, 1.5m depth |
PK 21 - 20 |
|
d/s
prt - 2m depth, quay with rings |
PK 18 - 17 |
halte |
d/s
prt - solid quay just before lock |
PK 7 onwards |
|
quays
with rings / bollards all the way along. |
Lyons - don't miss the Fourviere cathedral -
amazing mosaics, brass work, wood work!
There is a big market along the river around PK4 on Sat am. |
Navicarte16 - Le Rhone |
PK 4 |
Ecluse de Pierre
Benite |
Floating
waiting pontoons |
PK 29 |
|
public
quay; solid, high, bollards and rings |
PK 41 - 40 |
les
Roches port |
prt
hand marker missing, stbd marker on last of 6 pylons; good facilities, 2
prong French plugs |
PK 47 - 48 |
|
d/s
prt - rocks and shoals to prt just after bridge |
PK 56 |
|
d/s
prt - steel-sided quay before and after bridge |
PK 104 |
|
d/s
prt - quay with tyres and bollards |
PK 112 |
Port
de l'Eperviere |
tricky
entrance, 1m depth max. |
NOTE :If you see red flags along the walls inside
the locks, this indicates the floating bollard in that position is missing |
PK 143 - 144 |
|
beware
of 1m depth line of rocks running between old river and canal, when leaving
lock. In other words, don't try to
cross over too soon. |
PK 147 onwards |
|
potential
for rough chop in strong winds |
PK 164 |
|
floating
waiting pontoons; sign "no parking sauf plaisance" means no
berthing EXCEPT pleasure boats |
PK 166 |
|
quay
is not suitable, marina is half built but has good depth |
PK 204 |
|
Good
pontoon. Co-operative wine cellar 5
min's walk downstream - wine by the
litre for 6FF, bring your own bottle or buy one from them. |
PK 214 |
ecluse |
d/s
- waiting pontoon just before lock is missing |
PK 241.5 |
Avignon |
quay
or marina same price. Marina pontoons
were not in very good condition so we used quay instead, 3m depth |
PK 261 |
halte |
very
tight, silted up, 50FF |
PK 265 |
|
floating
waiting pontoons |
PK 269 |
|
new
bridge |
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