Managed to get a glimpse of Mount Everest in the distance but it was only the tip as the weather was not clear.

Waiting in the queue to go through the formalities, albeit tired and dirty after a long day in the air, was particularly amused at the big sign asking passengers to have all documentation ready for presentation, such as passport, customs declaration, visa etc. before you "pass out". The Nepalese try very hard to put things in correct English, but the English language being what it is, they sometimes just miss the mark.

The airport arrival section, at present, is not good, very primitive, (although there is a new international terminal in the process of being built). Prior to exiting the building, it is advisable to change your money at the available money exchange posts, they will give you a receipt which enables you to then re-exchange any money you might have left over at the end of your holiday. This will always be exchanged from Rs to American Dollars. Visa applications can be performed at the airport but personally I think it better to have it prior to leaving your home country.

Outside is just a maze of people clamouring everywhere, very dirty and dusty. The Nepalese, not actually employed at the airport, are not permitted into the airport building, thus if you have locals meeting you they will be outside the front door, usually holding up a placard with your name. Hustle and bustle, noise, cars everywhere both sides of the road, and seemingly no road sense, though I never saw one accident. Drivers permanently with hands on horns. The area near the airport is very slummy with garbage and animals everywhere. We were met by the Trekking Company Representative. Although I was travelling on my own, there were twelve other trekkers, teachers and friends from Trinity Grammar in Kew, who were leaving to go to Langtang at the same time I was going to the Annapurna Region, so we shared the same bus and stayed at the same hotel.

The journey was uneventful except for the culture shock of seeing goats and cattle all over the place. The animals live on whatever they can find, mainly foraging in the garbage which is strewn in piles along the road, which I believe gets carted away every so often. I have seen them eat anything and everything including plastic and paper - so much for their internal constitutioon. The area improved as we got closer to the hotel but fell short of western standards.

Our hotel was down a side street. Once off the main drag, we arrived in a quiet little oasis away from the madding crowd. The owner, a Tibetan Refugee has built up the hotel business over the years and is constantly updating the facilities - Nirvana Garden Hotel - in Thamel. I had a pleasant twin bedded ensuite room on the second floor with a balcony overlooking the garden. The facilities were good, however, the bed was rather hard and the pillow a disaster, changed it with the one on the other bed which was moderately better. The lights failed leaving only one pilot light on in the room. I went to sleep only to be woken a while later with the room lit up like a Christmas tree when the electricity came on again.

4 April 99 KATHMANDU

We were all up early the first morning as we being taken on a guided tour of Kathmandu. My guide, Dilli, came to the hotel to meet me and said he would pick me up early the following morning. During the day we visited many temples in Durbar Square in Patan. There are approximately twelve different temples both Hindu and Buddhist. In the centre is running water with three outlets where the locals wash themselves and their clothes.

We continued on to visit a Tibetan Carpet factory which employs a couple of hundred refugees. Their income is derived from a cottage industry of carpet making. The carpets are exported all over the world. As I had the tour leader's daughter accompy me, the Tibetan women in the factory were fascinated with her and wondered why she was with me, particularly as the little one was Tibetan. They had recognised her facial features which are a little flatter and broader than the Nepalese. We went on to the Nagarjun Stupa in Kathmandu Valley and then back to the hotel.

The standard of buildings varies greatly. Many have the most beautiful carved facades whilst others are falling down. You can get a decent one surrounded by poverty and diminished dwellings. The city is very large and it will take many years to rebuild and develop due to the lack of machinery available. (Note: A building I thought was falling down - emerged as a multi storey facility a year later!)

Thamel, the area in which we are staying, is particularly geared towards the tourist. Thus we are surrounded by small and large hotels, pensions, restaurants, tour offices and shops by the million all selling the same goods - trousers, T-shirts, camping and snow gear, silver jewellery, food, paintings and souvenirs.

Street sellers with their wares of fruit, tiger balm, hand made flutes, little stringed instruments, constantly approach you and try every trick in the trade to make you purchase their goods. Others who are persistently offering to take you places on the bicycle rickshaws. They rely on the fact you do not know the area and will often persuade you to take their offer saying "Oh that square is over a mile away" when in fact it is just round the corner. The only fruits I purchased were mandarins and bananas due to the fact that they had skins which you could peel thus ensuring their hygienic qualities.

The afternoon I spent on my own, walking the streets absorbing the local atmosphere. Saw lots of cattle, dogs, goats, even a monkey. The children are extremely friendly as are the adults as well. I was amused at a street sign advertising "laddies and jents tailors". Returned to the hotel early evening and had a chicken chow mien for dinner sitting in the garden. The hotel Staff is excellent and most obliging. I retired for the night having repacked the backpack for the third time leaving out several items. I have been issued with a rucksack containing two sleeping bags, (one for warmer and one for colder weather), a warm down jacket and inner sheet. The rest of my gear has to fit into what space is left. It was quite an interesting exercise.

We left early in the morning to catch the local "express" bus to Pokhara. Dilli arrived to pick me up and we caught a bicycle rickshaw to the bus station. There was a bit of a panic as I had understood we were leaving at 7 am (from the hotel I thought), but this was in fact the time the bus left the bus station, so the rickshaw cyclist had to put all steam ahead to get us there, which he did, and we boarded the air-conditioned (open your windows) express (the journey of 200 km took seven hours) bus to where our walking trek began.

Passing through the Kathmandu Valley to the west was an experience. As mentioned before, there seem to be very few road rules, but despite this we only saw one overturned lorry. The road is very narrow with plenty of sheer drops either side as you climb out of the valley and through agricultural areas. A nice English couple sat behind, Emily and James, a very pleasant Japanese lass sat over the way. Every time we stopped we were surrounded by local youth trying to sell souvenirs and things to eat. On each occasion Dilli would shut the curtains because as soon as they saw white people they were even
more insistent, to the point of climbing the side of the bus trying to push their wares through the windows. We were also accompanied by our cook, Sheeva, our porter Sete was to join us that night.

My first furore into real local life was two hours out of Kathmandu when the bus came to a shuddering halt, "toilet stop" shouted the conductor. Everyone it seemed, apart from me, leapt off the coach, the boys hanging it out anywhere and the girls squatting. I can't do this I thought. Dilli asked "Don't you want to go to the toilet". "How far is the lunch stop", was my query, "Approximately two hours" came the reply, of course this is Nepalese time and could mean anything. The thought of jogging up and down for another considerable amount of time got the better of me.

Jumping off the bus and hurdling an open drain, I selected what appeared to be a good spot behind a small rock, to find a gentleman already in occupation, let him finish and downed my daks, taking in my surroundings I realised that this was a very popular little nook as there were little piles of number 2's all round me. I am still alive to tell the tale and after all I was the one embarrassed and no one else took the slightest bit of notice of a silly old woman.

There is definitely a hierarchal system of toilets. They range from what we had above, simply nothing, if in the bush then you can either scrape a hole or cover what you have done with a stone and leaves, a hole dug in the ground 12" x 6" x 4" where you cover over what you have done by pushing back some of the soil dug out of the hole, this is usually enclosed in a tent (my little house on the prairie) when you are camping. A more up market system is still a hole in the ground which could have a concrete insert or porcelain one, and you stand placing your feet either side, a bucket in the corner for soiled paper, and a second bucket containing water with an old tin of some kind to sluice the water down, progressing on to a flush toilet with no seat, and then a fully operational flush toilet with seat. The last was found in a fairly up market hotel in Pokhara and was the only one that stank.

POKHARA TO PHEDI

On arrival at Pokhara it was decided not to commence the walk from nearby, but to get a taxi to Phedi. It was here that we were joined by our porter, Sete. As it was fairly hot, Dilli thought that we would stay at the "luxury hotel" rather than camp. Shortly after we settled in, a party of about twenty young men arrived at the camping site and I feel that this was perhaps the reason he wanted me to have my own room for safety.

My bedroom had two wooden slatted beds, a bit of bedding which had seen better days and a glassless window with shutters, so I decided to sleep in the sleeping bag enjoying the company of my own wild life rather than gathering up foreign bodies from the bedding. The room had no other furnishings and the door was closed by a big padlock on the outside (on par with shearers' quarters in Australia), and a solid sliding bolt on the inside. The loo, a hole in the ground, with a big spider in the corner and the shower a running hose coming out of the wall. I was given a personal key to the loo!

By the side of my bedroom was a concreted area which the campers used as their kitchen. Fortunately by seven thirty in the evening, it gets dark just before then; everyone had gone to bed so there was not much noise. Dilli and Sheeva had the room next door and I think Sete slept in the kitchen.

Before dinner I checked out the start of the walk for the next morning, thought I would go up a little way and nearly died of exhaustion of the first 100 feet, arriving at a little shop. Stopped here and had a great conversation with the locals including a couple of guys who said they were working at the hotel at Dhampus. Asked Dilli about the first day, with this mountain behind us, I thought there must be some nice pass somewhere, but no - up and over was the order of the day. Dinner was chicken soup, rice and vegetable curry with lentil gravy, "dal bhat tarkari" which is the staple diet of the Nepalese, eaten at about eleven in the morning and again in the evening. The curry nearly took the mouth off me and I stressed no curry or chilli for the rest of the journey.

6 Apr 1999 Phedi to Dhampus (1799m); 2 hours

An early rise round 6a.m. followed by a breakfast of porridge, fried egg, toast and tea. We started off at last on our real trekking. Up - up and up the route climbs steeply and after about 40 minutes we look over the Mardi valley for a beautiful view of the terraces and river valley. We continued up the ridge to the Gurung village of Dhampus. On the way up I head great calls of "namaste" (hello) and there were the two guys with whom I had spoken the night before. They asked how long it has taken me to get to that point. When I said two hours they appeared impressed and were very congratulatory and wished me well on the trip. I am quite amazed how good my legs are as the first climb was very steep.

Dhampus to Pothana (2200m); Total 4 Hours

During our stay in this spot there were many fires burning. It was the day of the festival of the goats. The male ones that is, though they might disagree with the idea of a festival, the males are culled from the main herd, their throats are slit and the blood offered for sacrifice and their bodies are roasted on an open fire, then distributed for eating. Heads and all go on the fire.

Pothana is a thriving village with several T-houses and many market stalls selling clothing, jewellery and souvenirs. At this stage I am not buying anything as we have a long way to travel.

We were camped behind a T-house. Above us on the next terrace was an English family travelling with their teenage sons. Spent a time talking with them, very pleasant family.

Dinner consisted of vegetable chow mien, sitting on a tarpaulin between the tents. The boys do the cooking for me making an arrangement with the local T-house to use their kitchen. They do not eat with me so I sit in solitary splendour.

7 Apr 1999 POTHANA TO LANDRUK 1650m 3 hours to lunch - 2 hours after = 5 total

Slept well but found sleeping bag too restrictive, so lay on light weight one and opened heavy duty one as cover. As usual awake at 3.15 am (7.30am Australian time), but managed to doze off again. On rising could just see the top of Hiunchuli 6441m before the cloud came over again. Because there has been no rain for seven months there is a lot of haze round and it is hard to make out both the mountains and the valleys.

Dill and Sete both have tummy pain, but soldier on. The boys played bottle games after breakfast like young kids. They are 28, 25 and 22 respectively. All married with families back in Kathmandu.

We left at 8 am - up a small hill!! We leave the river beds and terraces behind us, and climb gradually into the forest. After three hours of walking, having passed through many villages and over a swing bridge we arrive at Tolka's Sapna Lodge for a lunch of chips and pancake.

We have passed a number of English, French and Germans today, and on finishing lunch a large group of Japanese arrived to have their meal. All the villagers are most friendly, the children always asking for sweets. The little ones are shy at first but soon get over that.

Many people ask my age and seem surprised, firstly at the age and secondly that I am travelling on my own. One old guy told me he is sixty five and his friend sitting beside him seventy. Apparently for the Nepalese 60 is a good age. Many of the girls and boys are married in their early teens, but they are trying to stop this practice. This morning we had our first view of snow capped mountains, but only for a short time before the haze set in again.

Two hours after lunch as we cross the ridge we can see Landruk - a village perched terrace like on the side of the mountain 1652m high, and also tomorrow's destination Ghandrung across the valley. From here we cross a stream, then continue to Landruk, passing people tending their stock and working in the fields, presenting an opportunity to become acquainted with village life. We have covered varied terrain, many steps down after Dilli's "little hill" up.

We have passed two schools today. At the first one a man came out with a ledger book asking for a donation. He records your name, country of origin and amount. Gave him 100 rps - $2.50. The second time a young boy asked for money. Had no change and was only able to give him about 10 rupees - 25c. Had another glimpse of Annapurna South tonight. (Note: it is an idea to take some pencils and rubbers to Nepal to give to the Teaching Staff - do not give directly to the children).

Our camp site is at the farthest end of the village, small but comfortable. With only four of us there is plenty of space. The owner of the T-house has installed a solar hot water system so I am able to have a shower, do some washing and wash my hair for the equivalent of $1.00 - bliss. There are about twenty French campers up the road and we have a continual stream of people passing by to have a shower.

I am so pleased that I did so much hard work prior to the trip - this is only the second day but my legs have stood up to the strain very well. The left knee is a little troublesome but nothing to worry about. Hips no problem there. The hotel owner was also a masseur so for $7.50 I had a great leg massage.

Dilli found an extension walking stick which one of the other trekkers had left behind. He was as pleased as punch with this. Dinner was cabbage soup, prawn cracker, followed by vegetables, garlic, onion and cabbage inside a flour dough and then fried, served with tomatoes, onion and herb sauce. I have specifically asked for no chilli after the first meal nearly burnt the mouth off me!!!

8 Apr 1999 LANDRUK TO GANDRUNG 1 hour down 2.5 up = 3.5 hours 1970m

GOOD MORNING! Shit I can't move - thought during the night that I was lying on little pebbles, but found the ground under the tent to be perfectly flat. Every spot where my leg muscles touched the ground was agony as I lay on them. Never mind! it is straight down this morning to the Modi Khola (river) and then straight up to Gandrung.

From Landruk it is a steep walk down to cross the Modi Khola, then just as steep an ascent along the terraces. Today is our first encounter with stone stairs that are hundreds of years old in places, and have been used continuously by local people. Each step would be between 8" and 14" high. As you walk up the steps you realise why the Nepalese are so fit. Nearing the top I was on all fours and looking at Dilli and baaing saying "I have now turned into a mountain goat".

Lunch at the top was potato with tomato and onion on Tibetan bread and two mandarins, sitting on the ground between the tents surrounded by chickens, cow and a calf all trying to sample my fare. The first priority on arriving at camp is to get a good spot. There are always several choices as most of the T-houses have camping areas as well as internal accommodation. The boys always choose the best spots for our small group. Camp is set up and I am given an orange or lemon drink, then water to wash my hands before and after lunch. Usually I sit on my own as they prefer to eat their meals in the kitchen or with friends. Sheeva does all the cooking for me and they pay for the use of the T-house kitchen.

The mist is coming over and I think it is going to rain. We have been joined by the French group who have also come over from Landruk. Spoke to several of their members who appeared surprised at my expertise in their language.

In the afternoon I walked, 'crawled', round the village and talked to many locals. Looked at the Day Care Centre where all the children were on the floor having their afternoon nap. At 3.30 pm visited the Annapurna Conservation Office where they showed a video detailing the efforts being made towards conservation in Nepal. Tourism is causing many problems with litter and the vast numbers travelling throughout the country. They ask you to try and not buy water in plastic containers, but fill your own water bottles with either boiled water, or treat the water with iodine. There are restrictions governing the numbers entering some areas to 1000 people per year and in other regions tourists are charged up to $US700.00 for a week's trekking permit. They are more lax in the Annapurna region. I understand approximately 50,000 trekkers find their way to Nepal each year and of course the numbers are growing.

Another problem is the deforestation. Both locals and tourists are being encouraged to use kerosene fires rather than wood. I purchased two seedling trees for 50 rupees each about $2.50 and left the girl to choose the particular species as it had started to rain. Usually after the video people can go down to the nursery and choose their own plants. They record your name, nationality and country of origin and label the trees accordingly, when they are planted.

Gandrung is a particularly "modern" village with many T-houses of 'good' standard. Sporting "HOT SHAWERS' and flush toilets (seatless of course). It also has a hydro-electric system and is the home to many Indian and British Army Ghurkhas, which is basically the reason for the greater wealth. After the video it was lashing down with rain and Dilli arranged for me to be permitted to eat in the restaurant, albeit Sheeva cooked for me.

A new pair of legs would be in order as I am almost crippled. I cannot complain about the rain as they are in desperate straits having had none for over seven months. It is possible that when it stops the mist will clear and we will have a wonderful view of the mountains - yet to be seen in all their glory - and so to bed. It rained hard during the night with a strong wind.

We were joined at Gandrung by Jiban our extra porter who would be carrying the food whilst we were on the wilderness part of the journey. He was a cheerful twenty year old, the size of a midget, with the strength of an ox - also married.

I saw Sete at the local shop trying to buy a pair of runners, with no luck. I had purchased a pair of Sfida runners before leaving home. They fitted him, so he is now proudly wearing my brand new shoes. I hope my boots do not collapse or I will have to get the runners back from him.

9 Apr 1999 GANDRUNG TO BASHI KHAPRA 2.5 hours - 2700m

This morning after the rain I stepped out of my little home - a tear came to my eyes and I was breathless as there before me were the great peaks of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre (Fishtail). Took many photos and purchased four postcards.

We left Gandrung to climb through dense rhododendron and oak forests. The trees were blooming, beautiful reds, pinks and almost white flowers. Many had lost their initial bloom as it was late spring. If you were alert and watched carefully through the trees every now and then you could spot a monkey swinging from branch to branch. The walk was varied - up and very steep in parts and almost level in others. We went along a river for some time, reminiscent of the walk to Erskine Falls at Lorne. Came across the Japanese girl who was on the bus to Pokhara, so there was great excitement and she took photographs. Also spoke to a Norwegian couple who have lived in Pokhara for thirty four years working as missionaries. They expect to be there another three years before returning home.

We lunched at Bhasi Khapra - pleasant little village which seemed to be the delivery post for the goods carried by many donkeys. Their goods were offloaded and they were then turned loose to rest. There was an old woman sitting on a chair pulling a long rope which was attached to a basket. This was used as a cradle for a young child. It was great to have a reasonably long lunch break as my legs are beat. The dining table is in the middle of the pathway, this is obviously a popular spot for the locals as there is a tap with running water, thus plenty of washing and hoiking (nose blowing and clearing of throats followed by a spit) going on.

BASHI KHAPRA TO TADAPANI 2700m .45 making total of 3.35

Gave some pencils to an old man who sells eggs from village to village. Dilli had to explain to him how they worked and were sharpened with a knife. The next forty five minutes walk was like walking in Australia. Lovely paths through Rhododendron bushes as tall as gumtrees. It took a shorter time than expected to arrive at Tadapani, probably because the terrain was not so up and down and easier on the legs.

Our camp site is on top of the plateau and probably the worst we have had so far. This due to the lack of rain, thus no grass, just dirt. The sun has disappeared and it is once again misty and getting cold. I believe the view from here is wonderful, lets hope the morning brings the sight of the mountain tops. 'Hot shawer' is the go - paid the money but the hot water had run out due to lack of sun. 40 rupees = $1.00 Whilst sitting looking at the view was amused by a group of cows wandering through the camp site, one of whom decided that Sete's block of carbolic soap for the washing up was a good item for its menu, and down it went. Frothy poo tomorrow no doubt. Because of mist it is hard to get our clothes dry, had my sock pinned to backpack all day and they are now nearly as dirty as they were before, due to them resting on the ground when I put the backpack down.

Wandering round the village I met a couple of girls who live in Lynch Street and Grosvenor Street, Brighton respectively, funny to meet someone who lives down the road. They were very impressed with Dilli and thought he was a real spunk, told them he was mine and that he did a marvellous job!!! Looked at the handcraft stalls and debated whether to buy a shawl but decided it is still too early in the trip. Very cold in the evening. Had dinner in Dilli's tent by candlelight. Bed just after 7 pm.

10 Apr 1999 TADAPANI TO BENSHI KHARKA 3400m; 5hr52min

Beautiful morning, not nearly as cold. Sun shining on the mountains. Decided after being chilly last night that I would give in and buy a cashmere stole to put round the shoulders at lunch time. Got the seller to come down from 500 to 300 rupees - $7.50.

This is the time we now leave the main track and start our journey into the wilderness. We are now climbing higher and it is getting colder. We are walking through Rhododendron forests once more. For the next five days we are likely to encounter only nomadic tribes people. Heading north-east we move gradually through the forest and see the mountain peaks of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhare before us and the valley we walked through down below.

The climb up was constantly steep. The legs are better today but not perfect. After a 3.30 hour climb we arrive in a little valley with a dry river bed. Greeted by Sheeva and Sete with a mug of warm orange juice and lunch of beans in salad dressing, tuna and pita fried bread filled with cheese, tea and a mandarin. It is incredible how much the porters carry, even 2 dozen eggs in flat cartons are strapped on to the top of the load. For these five days everything is carried as there are no villages at which to buy supplies.

Up - up - up over the ridge of the mountainn. Very nearly as narrow as the ledge round Mt Stapleton at Halls Gap. An extremely hairy walk over the top. Deep valleys on both sides. Thank heaven it was so misty I could not see down. Had to be very careful that the backpack did not move and choose my footing with great concentration.

On arrival at the camp site at Benshi Kharka we find two dilapidated stone huts. These have been built to shelter cattle and herders in the winter. Despite this accommodation our tents are erected on the edge of the plateau (hopefully no one sleepwalks). The boys have lit a fire, I have the feeling this is strictly taboo, though there are signs of others around the site. Perhaps because there are buildings here it is permissible. Hopefully the weather will clear and the view will be stunning.

The porters do not always travel with us. Most often they go ahead so a cup of tea and washing water is always available for me on arrival either at the lunch stop or in the evening. When I wander on my own through villages I am always conscious that Dilli, my guide, is not far away, he does not intrude, but is there to keep a watchful eye on me. He always know where I am, and most times I let him know when I am off sightseeing. He will be round a corner or standing on a hill watching.

My legs, after five days of walking, seem to be coming good. The third and fourth days have definitely been the worst. I have just mended Sheeva's sock. He had a very small hole which he had just mended - put the sock back on his foot, and ripped it practically in two trying to pull it up. There was much laughter at his antics from the other boys. Although they are there to look after me -a job which they do exceptionally well - I am still conscious of almost being the mother figure. They are simple boys with a great capacity to enjoy life even the smallest things please them - great smiles and lots of laughter.

The only person who sits with me when I eat is Dilli. When I have finished my evening meal he disappears off to get his own meal with the others. Sometimes I find it hard sitting at breakfast or lunch in the middle of nowhere in an empty camp site like a Queen eating on my tod. But that is obviously with what they are most comfortable.

Because of the dryness of the air there are very few smells away from Kathmandu and hardly any flies - mosquitoes are non existent as apparently it is too high. It is quite surprising considering the amount of food scraps that are left out for the chickens and cattle that are always roaming round.

Off to bed round 7pm took an antihistamine as my nose is running when I go down hill. At three in the morning heard footsteps coming through the camp site. The same thing at four in the morning. On both occasions the boys were up with the torch looking round. The next morning, I, having assumed they were off to the loo during the night, was asked if I had heard the footsteps, answering in the affirmative, Dilli then said, that on checking he could see no human or animal. There was a rumour that a cattleman had died up there many years before - so we all heard the 'ghost of Benshi Kharka' that night.

11 Apr 1999 BESHI KHARKA TO CHESDIBUNG 3000m 3.35 hours

Slept well and woke to a beautiful view of Dhaulagiri 8167m and Tukuche Peak 6920m. Looking round this morning I am even more pleesed the ridge we crossed yesterday was misty all round so I could not see what was down either side! Maybe I was not so stupid to be wary of the ridge, as during the snow season last November, three of the Peregrine porters slipped over the edge to their death.

I am pleased to observe that now we have left the main trail, it is much easier to keep my nails clean. The reason could be attributable to the fact that since the rain has fallen it has settled a lot of the dust in the air.

It is a difficult decision as to when to take photographs, as similar to the Grand Canyon, the light changes every few minutes. It is now 6.05am and the first sight-seeing plane is flying over the range from Jomsom. Across the valley is our next camping site. The boys have spotted a group camping there, but for the life of me I cannot make them out. Looking over you would not believe there was another living human out there. Five minutes later - here comes another plane - obviously aa very popular area for early morning flights.

We are slow at moving off this morning, and will probably leave round 8.30am. Dilli has insisted once more I have too much to carry in my pack, he is taking my water bottle and medicine case.

We start off at 8.35 am downhill for an hour and then up - round the mountain on a path like yesterday afternoon. This time it is clear and it does not seem so bad, although we are looking straight down to the Masi Kola and Kaligandake valley, the deepest gorge in the world. The trail drops to a small stream, and we continue down to the Rele Khola, a tributary of the Kaligandaki. The track is very Australian again and to Dilli's surprise we arrive at our lunch stop within two hours. The only occasion he finds it difficult to keep up with me is on the flat surfaces, this is when I take off. Not lasting for long, before another climb or descent, he soon catches up with me once more.

What a spot, I let out a yelp of joy for there, deep in the mountains, is a little oasis. A river, flowing fast down the way past the lunch spot, has been harnessed with a hose running into a dug out log. Yippee! out comes the shampoo, with Dilli and I washing hair and clothing. There is a half built log cabin but I think this time it is a residence. The owner has just arrived out of the forest with a load of planks which he has hewn from timber harvested elsewhere. I am slightly embarrassed as my clothes line is strung between his front fence posts, but according to Dilli he does not mind.

We stayed at this oasis for an hour and a half and set off again up - up - up from the river. Occasionally we come across 'Australia'. Fairly level spots - but don't get excited you are not on to a good thing, and very soon round the corner is another steep climb. Eventually down to Chesdibung which is 400m lower than last night on the opposite side of the valley. (Note: at Benshi Kharka I found that I was breathing more deeply to get more oxygen into the body. Our next stop over- night being lower, assisted in my not getting altitude sickness on this trek).

On the trail Dilli pointed out a line of nose-to-tail caterpillars stretching from a tree they had totally defoliated, across the path to march on to find another more fruitful tree to attack. Having crossed a wooden bridge, we climb north to the summer pastures of Chesdibung, where we arrive just after 2.30 pm. Three Australians, a couple who live in Beaumaris and now in a unit near the MCG in their mid sixties, and a young man from Ferntree Gully, being looked after by Peregrine arrived at our camp site with an enormous entourage. You usually count three or four supporters to one tourist so they had at least twelve.

This site is perched on the side of the mountain and is the home of a local family. They advertised Mars Bars and Snickers for sale, and I though it would be nice to buy one for each of my group. Alas! they had run out. So I promised to buy some at the first available opportunity. Dilli has decided to only spend one night at Corpra Danda 3870m and to come back down to this camp site the night after. He feels the origianally planned trek is too steep - so the change of itinerary - am pleased with his suggestion.

It is sometimes difficult to pass the time on one's own. Went for a little walk down the path and came across a lovely little stream so went back and got my shampoo and washed my hair. Although it is only 5 pm the light is rapidly fading as the mist comes over. The Peregrine group have a dining tent with a table and fold up chairs. Dilli says that my company do the same with larger groups, I am quite happy dining in his tent. As there are permanent residents at this site, it is customary to give them approximatly 200 rupees $5.00 per tent and a couple of hundred for the use of the kitchen.

The Melbourne couple keep complaining how cold it is here. Wait for whatever happens tomorrow night, it will be freezing. They are also going to Copra Danda. 6.30 pm off to bed.

12 April 1999 CHESDIBUNG TO COPRA DANDA 3870m 2.30 hours

Bit noisy last night with visits to the loo and snoring from the other group. Woke again to misty surroundings. We all set off together at 7.15 am for the long haul up to Copra Danda - 3870m. This is an estimated 4.30 hour walk but we have arrived in 2.30 hours. The others came in 15 minutes later. It was fairly steep but some saving graces of fairly level track through grasslands, once again with a sheer drop on one side. Up and over a ridge and what a stunning view of the snow capped mountains. Round another hill over a ridge and round the corner and believe it or not we are here. Not until the tents were erected did I believe we had reached our goal and sincerely thought it was just a lunch stop with another couple of hours to go. At 12602.6" we had reached our objective.

I have wandered up and down the hill behind trying to get better photo shots but the mist and clouds keep coming over. I wanted to get an impression of the height we had achieved but it was not possible. The sun keeps coming and going.

I had a lovely sponge bath and washed my clothes which were very pongy. In fact all my clothes have been rinsed out every day, but with the limited amount of water available, it is impossible to get them properly clean. They are now suspended over the slats of a roofless building to dry.

We are up in the clouds most of the time and it is getting cold. I have donned my thermal underwear and Kerri's vyella shirt, as when the sun disappears the temperature drops quite dramatically. The older Australian man is suffering badly from altitude sickness and his wife is not much better. He has gone to bed and has an irregular heart beat and is having difficulty breathing. So far so good for me. Really they should tell their Guide and go down, they are talking of going higher tomorrow but I think this will be impossible for them.

Dilli and I plan to go higher tomorrow, taking a picnic lunch, so the boys can return down to last night's camp at Chesdibung, they can then have a bit of a relax as we are staying there again tomorrow night. Went for a reasonable walk along the ridge passing several huts trying to get photos but no luck. The invisible mountains are Dhaulagiri 8167m, Tukucke Peak 6920m, Nilgiri 7740m, Fang 7649m, Annapurna 1 8093m and Annapurna South 7219m. Below us is the Modi Kola and the Tha Kola Valley. The Rhododendrons are in bloom and the side of the mountain is covered with beautiful flowers. I am sitting on a rock on the hill up from the camp site, a glimpse of Annapurna 1 and it's gone again. Two porters have returned with the water supply, it has taken them two hours to get to the river and back. There are little marsupials running round - look like tailless rats. An eagle flew down very close to the camp site and there are lots of big crows on the wing.

After dinner to bed with all the clothes I could put on. Thermal wear, Kerri's long sleeve shirt and green track suit. Very cold night. A restless night with so many people round. Michael the young Australian had decided to go on to the Holy Lake, thus his group were up at 4am to get going.

13 Apr 1999 COPRA DANDA TO CHESDIBUNG 4170m to 3000m - 2 hours up and 57 minutes down. Then a further 1.42 minutes down to Chesdibung.

This morning as we had a short drop back down to Chesdibung, Dilli and I decided to walk up for two hours before starting the journey down. We reached a further 300m making a total climb for the trip to 4170m or 13,602.6". On arriving back at Copra Danda we found the Australian couple had decided to stay where they were and not go any higher. I thought this an excellent decision, though still felt they should have gone straight down the night before. We said our farewells as they were going on to another area and we were parting company. I heard later when I bumped into them again at Bangkok Airport, that Michael did get to the Holy Lake, it took them nearly eleven hours and he was extremely worn out when he got back.

It was very cold this morning and for the first time I donned the heavy jacket. However, as soon as the sun came up over the mountains, once more everything was discarded and I was back to my light pants and polo shirt.

On the hillside, at this height, there were a lot of little shrubs which Dilli pointed out to me, saying they are used to make incense. At the lower altitudes the shrubs grow larger and more plentiful. Tomorrow is the Nepali New Year of 2056. They follow the shorter lunar year, whilst we follow the solar year which the Gregorian calendar follows, thus over a period of time they accumulate more years than us. We saw more tailless marsupials at the lunch spot. Dilli threw the mandarin peel at one and cracked up when he hit it on the nose. The poor little thing just stood there in amazement.

At different spots on the track you come across stones which have been formed with a seat and then a raised side with another sitting area. These are designed so that the porters can sit on the bottom flat area and rest their loads on the next level without having to put them on the ground. They are so heavy that often it is extremely difficult for them to lift the loads up on to their backs, and without these aids sometimes have to get someone else to help.

The descent down from Copra Danda was horrendous, very hard on the knees and I had not realised the angle of the incline on the way up. It was only 1.30 hours but I am very tired and am glad we will have the afternoon to rest before going on our way tomorrow. Altitude and lack of sleep could also be a contributing factor over the past two days. It is hard going up energy wise, but difficult coming down. One has to be very sure of the footing, with my trifocals it is sometimes not so easy to get the right perspective, concentration is paramount. I did slip twice and the feet went from under me, fortunately the first time I landed on my backpack, but the hands and wrists took a beating. Dilli apologised for not catching me - what a sweetheart!

The second time was on a narrow path with a sheer drop to my right. Dilli usually walked in front, by my side or behind me depending on circumstances. Whilst behind he was very close, almost breathing down my neck, I found this a bit disconcerting, but did not question the procedure, realising that he must have his reasons. This became apparent when once again my right foot rolled and slid on some gravel, somehow I managed to swing the upper part of my body, throwing my arm back and yelled to Dilli "grab my arm" - this he did, and I am here to tell the tale. Don't know what would have happened if he had not stopped me - (perhaps the fate of the poor Peregrine porters), it does not bear thinking about - I like to think he saved my life.

Thinking back two days, when we were at Chesdibung previously, I mentioned they had run out of Mars Bars etc.. Well the marketing techniques are not lost, even to the simplest of people. Someone had travelled for several hours to restock overnight and so the boys and I tucked into a Mars Bar each.

On arrival back down the area was swarming with goats, passing through getting whatever foliage they could find. I can hear a cuckoo in the distance and the flies seem to have appeared from nowhere. I am pleased that I managed to get up to the heights we achieved without any trouble from altitude sickness. I did find that at times I had to breath a little deeper to get enough oxygen but otherwise there was no trouble.

I have a bit of a rash at the moment - not sure what has caused this - suspect it could be attributable to lack of water with which to wash, dirt and sweat. It is like a chicken pox rash with little blistery spots coming up, extremely itchy and of course when you take the tops off through scratching they ooze and then form scabs. They started on the backs of my legs and are now progressing over the main body.

There are two dogs here which are losing their winter coats. Half their bodies have the summer coat, sleek and shiny, and the rest is matted fur. I would love to brush them, but it is inadvisable to touch any dog as many of them are rabid. They are here to help the goat herder look after his goats and both dogs have bells round their necks. When the herder went off he had to come back three times for the oldest dog. It did not want to go with him but stay in the comfort of the camp site. It kept slinking back different ways, but of course the bell gave him away.

14 Apr 1999 CHESDIBUNG - SAUNDA - CHITRE 4 hrs 1.30 total 5.30

Stayed in bed a little longer this morning - rose at 6 am. I think the boys are all tired and were pleased with a more relaxing 24 hours. It has been chilly at first but now at 7.30 am the sun has just come over the mountain we crossed yesterday, and it is warming up. The back of my neck is burnt so will have to watch that today as of course, I forgot, it is behind us all the way down.

Leaving the site we set off down, as I slipped once more on a stone, I made the comment that I would either land on my bottom or at the bottom of the 'hill'. "I think it will be your back bottom" said Dilli. Explaining the difficulties of English - such as something is 'so so good' or it is 'so so' are entirely different meanings, or someone is 'funny laughing' or 'funny odd'. This morning our walk has taken us down steeply - Oh! the knees! through track like at Blackwood and up steep hills.

Our morning stop was at a river with a very rickety bridge. I though I might be smart and try and cross the river by stone hopping. Got to the middle - back or forward seemed impossible. Dilli looked at where I had intended going, said it was not possible and suggested down the middle of the river. I had looked at these rocks and they were wet and appeared very slippery, this Dilli found for himself when he tried to come up the middle, slipped and ended up with one leg in the water.

I persevered on my course by going backwards and then forwards - Dill was correct, I could not get round to corner to my first choice so the alternative was straight up. It was much steeper than anticipated and at one spot rather a sheer rock faced me. With a great effort and very big step upwards, relying almost entirely on the stregth of my arms, I clambered over. I was a little bruised but otherwise all right.

On reaching the top I admitted, (not like me) that I had been stupid in trying to be clever, Dilli's reply 'I do not agree with you - if you never try any challenge in life you never achieve". A great outlook really, when you consider how often we say 'no' to our children because we are frightened for their safety. He did also afterwards explain that, as far as he was concerned, he was not worried about the situation as he had certificates in climbing, rescue, first aid, trekking etc. and knew he would be able to get me out of whatever situation I found myself facing!

The walk continues on terrain again like Blackwood, rounding a corner we came to the terraces of Saunda 1 and Saunda 2 - villages next to each other. Here they are growing wheat, vegetables and potatoes on the hillside along the terraces. Stopped to take a photo of the terraces and then of a Temple and Offering Stand where they push ears of wheat through little holes and light a fire in the middle. Villagers are all very friendly once you say the Nepalese hello of 'namaste' in greeting to them. It is always best if someone is around to ask permission before taking photos, particularly of individual people.

After four hours walking we meet up with the boys in an idyllic spot by the Moresangu Khola. These villages appear to be fairly opulent as they sport a brand new suspension bridge next to the old board across the river. The river has been diverted to pass through a water mill made of stone. I had a great sponging of the face, legs and arms and as much else as I could without actually stripping off. The socks are out to dry and the sweaty hat has been dunked. The boys have all but stripped off, and disappeared with my tube of shampoo for their hair and little hand mirror for shaving purposes.

We have just finished lunch - boys are now relaxing. The baby of the group, Jiban, is skimming rocks on the water. Dilli is sunning his legs and Sheeva has just finished kitchen duties. "Lady Muck" is sitting on a tarpaulin on some rocks overseeing all this relaxation!

We set off again - yes! you have guessed it! straight up, crossing over two styles on our way. One was climbed by going up a log which was resting against the top of the wall, and had notches up the trunk for foot holds. The other had an excuse for a log , on the far side the steps had worn out and I had to straddle same like a horse and slide down. Of course from the ground the wall does not seem nearly as high as from the top.

Just before arriving at Chitre, walking through the terraces we came across a dead black snake on the path. Someone previously had killed it with a stone. Chitre is on the side of the mountain opposite where we were last night. That sounds not so far away and an easy walk, if you don't take into account we have crossed two ranges and down between into the valleys. We are actually sitting on the top of the third.

Jiban, our wilderness porter, has now left us and we are back to our original three, plus me, in the party. I have given him 500 rupees and a pair of track pants. These are far too long in the leg but I am sure he can do something with them when he gets home. He is such a shy boy, but the look on his face said it all. He is getting the bus to his home village after a two day walk to get to the bus stop.

A French couple has arrived in this village and to my horror the gentleman has come out to the tap, which is situated in the middle of the village, in the most miniscule pair of underpants. He is standing under the tap washing and appears completely oblivious, despite a number of villagers surrounding this phenomenon, of the fact that he is totally insulting the local population. His wife is no better, sitting in the sun, a large lady, with a very skimpy sarong tied round her ample body.

Chitre is rich in animal welfare, with plenty of cattle, sheep and chickens. A number of T-houses line the track and terraces of vegetables lie below us. Came across some youngsters putting their hands into a crevice in a dead log, looking for honey and then scampering off when the bees flew out. They obviously have no concept of the dangers they are courting. Many of the houses in Chitre have bee hives attached to the side under the eaves. At each end of the house there is a large storage area for wood. These are now full in preparation for the monsoon period which starts round June.

Being on the main Jomsom track, Chitre is a very busy village with many passing tourists from different countries, Swedes, French, Germans, English, Australian and some Japanese taking part of the trek on horseback. I have had a great day giving away various items of clothing. Sete a beanie, Dilli and Sheeva socks, and Sheeva my big jumper and gloves, and of course there was the track pants for Jiban. I am hoping I can manage with my three remaining pairs of socks as it is getting much warmer now and easier to get washing dry. My kit bag is almost empty. They are so delighted with anything you give them.

CHITRE TO PHUL BARI THEN TO RAMCHE DANDA 2800m 4 hrs plus 1.10

Had a restless night. What's new! Found some more lumps in the bed, alias muscles which had been given a severe battering coming down yesterday. Also there are a few travellers staying at the hotel. A dog barked incessantly for a considerable amount of time and a baby cried. Four am a great stirring from "the Opera House" the top house on the hill, as many locals started their journey home having celebrated New Year here. Found out later that the poor little baby has been abandoned by his parents, and the grandparents are looking after him and do not want him, thus he was probably crying with hunger.

I must take another anti histamine tonight as my spots are quite itchy. Dilli says it probably is due to the dust, dirt and perspiration and when I get back to Kathmandu and proper showers it will get better. Did manage to get an overall wash in a shower area which boasted a bucket of water.

Here I am having breakfast sitting between the tents on a bench. As the tents are cleared and packed away I turn into 'a shag on a rock' as my bench is situated right in the middle of the now empty camping ground.

7.35 am we set of passing through Ghorepani - a very active village with many T-houses and shops. Had a cup of tea in a T-house and purchased a couple of post cards. Was taken as 68 years old by a 58 year old local man. I must be wearing out!

UP UP UP to the top of Poon Hill, from which you get the most beautiful views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. Met a very interesting Brazilian couple going to Tibet. After Poon Hill the track becomes once more like a walk in the forest. Four hours and five minutes later we arrive at our lunch spot, a grassland space surround by pale pink, dark pink and red Rhododendron trees and a species of yellow bush.

An unbelievably easy walk greets us after lunch. Half way through we stopped for a rest. Have you ever felt like an Ass? Well it is not such a bad feeling, following in the steps of seven donkeys. Their intelligence and sure footedness in finding the easiest parts of the track made the walk even smoother for me.

Instead of going to the planned camp site we have stopped in an area on top of the ridge, with a view full circle round us. It is quite hot and unfortunately there is a gusty wind which is playing havoc with the dust. This is not the safest place and the boys have to take turns in guard duty over night, which is the reason my tent is next to a pile of donkey poo and not much further away is a sport I would have thought better. Having followed the donkeys for the best part of the afternoon I am surprised I have not been in the poo before this.

The distinct drawback of trekking in remote areas on your own, is that after settling into camp, completing you body wash from a small bowl in your tent, changing clothes and washing dirty ones, there is absolutely nothing to do. The boys busy themselves chatting, cooking or sleeping. This is for a period of up to three hours before dinner and bed. When we camp in villages there is often more activity and other tourists with whom to exchange pleasantries. If I had a good book it would be fine, but that would be more to carry, and personally I never know where we will camp at night. Not a criticism just an observation.

There are two children at this 'hotel' - a wooden shack. The girl is about four and boy possible two. If given the opportunity, the boy could go a long way. Very good at repeating words such as chair, table, thank you and donkey. Unfortunately he probably will not get the chance to go very far though there is a high school not too far away. The little boy ran to me the next morning when the donkey went past and point calling out "donkey".

Dinner is now being served at a table and the children plus some others, surround me with their noses a couple of inches away from mine. The meal is delicious, chicken soup with noodles, chicken tandoori, rice and macaroni, tinned peaches. Sete is a killer. - He purchased the live chicken in Ghorepani - a Rhode Island Red. As Dilli and I have laughed on the track when we have seen baby chicks fossicking "Enjoy yourself whilst you can for soon you will be in the pot". Poor Reddie has now met his fate and he was delicious.

16 Apr 1999 RAMCHE DANDA TO NANGI TO TAREPABAT 5.30 hrs

Breakfast of porridge and omelette on four pieces of toast. I gave two away to the little children. A mangy dog came in and ate the chicken bones from last night. Took photographs of the children before we left. I think the crew are getting tired they are very quiet today. They had slept with one eye open. In fact Sete slept ouside. Having given me a fair indication that last night's spot could bode trouble, I had an eye open and one ear out for sound myself. Even contemplated getting my Swiss Army Knife out at the ready. Nothing happend. There are often problems in the Everest Region. However, the Annapurna Region is notorious for robberies. At the start of the trip it was suggested that I should always put my camera and money belt down the bottom inside the sleeping bag. Bigger groups have assistant guides whose specific job is to be on guard and take it in turns on duty to watch over the campers.

We have come across hill and dale, every time you hear water flowing on the way down it is a sure thing there is a bloody big climb up on the other side. Have had several of these little obstacles this morning. Passed close to Nangi High School which is affiliated with Billanook College in Melbourne. Dilli was carrying a letter from someone in Dandenong to the school. As he considered it too far out of his way to drop it in, he gave it to three 'likely lads' who were washing by a pump. Hope the letter gets to its rightful destination.

We have come over the ridge behind Nandi, passing another village and up above a pine plantation for a lunch venue. Along the path are painted signs on many of the flag stones. These are messages from individual political candidates to vote for them in the coming election in a couple of week's time.

We have crossed three or four ridges today. After lunch we had a steep climb up. I counted 1700 stone steps before we came to the top of the ridge. The down track nearly killed my knees. Dilli said in encouragement "Australia is just round the corner". An hour later we came to a nice flat sport for about two kilometers. Passing through the village of Sallijan. I have noticed that although the men seem to work as porters, women in the villages appear to carry almost as heavy a load of wood or fodder for the animals, and an assortment of groceries. An undulating walk after the village and round the side of the range to our present camping site at Tarepabat.

There is a beautiful view over the valley. Have just completed one of my top to toe washes with a bowl of water in the tent, only to discover there is a show facility here, albeit a hose out of the wall. Started again and washed my hair. Everything I do at the camp site is monitored by several children and adults watching me all the time, even to their going on their hands and knees to peer into the tent. As I am finding this a little unnerving, rather like a freak show, I have asked Sete to tell them to go away. They have gone for the time being. The owner of the house has a sister with twins, a pigeon pair. The aunt wants the boy to go into the British Army when he grows up.

The owner of the T-House asked me to identify some tablets she found on the track as she wanted to take them for a slight rash she has on her legs. I showed her my rash and she laughed and I said her's was nothing to worry about. However, I could find no indication in my medical book as to what the tablets were for, so told her under no circumstances to take them as they could kill her. Dilli said they were definitely prescription drugs so goodness only knows what they were for. She threw them on the rubbish dump. This worried me as children could pick them up thinking they were sweets, so we got a child to retrieve them and put them down the toilet. To keep the lady happy I put some antiseptic on her rash.

Saturday is a holiday and sadly we have come across two families along the way who have lost loved ones. The families have been given goats in condolence. These are led behind children carrying high bamboo shoots in procession. One of the groups had a mother, father and kid goat all decorated with ribbons and bows. They are on their way to be slaughtered with the blood offered to the gods to look favourably on the dear departed. The flesh then cooked for eating. The little kid was gambolling all over the place, it was so sweet I got quite upset.

We are entering a more populated area with lots of farms. Incidentally for seven days we have not come across any other trekkers, only village people. On passing through Lespar we saw a 'rich' man who was feeding not only goats, but chickens and ducks as well. As we went our way down we are passing over many flights of stone steps. It is sometimes difficult to readjust the leg muscles as you get used to going up or down, and then have the change your direction using different muscles. The knees are better today, but have put a third layer of plaster on the right foot under the ball of same which is developing a blister.

Dilli is back to his old self, very chatty and informative along the way. The boys are up the top in their little eating area and are now singing to the girls down below who are tending goats and sheep high above the village in order to find better fodder. "Hey boys - Don't forget you are all married" I call out amidst great laughter.

At one stage on the track we pass a big buffalo mother with quite an old calf. Dilli suddenly said "Quick hurry up - She is angry and is about to attack us". As I did not consider pointing 'two fingers between the eyes', a la Crocodile Dundee with Charlie, would be of any great use, I decided a rapid exit was the answer. Any sore knees, muscles or other complaints were quickly forgeoetten as I scampered goat like away from the angry beast.

The sheep and goats are now around me while I finish lunch. A young girl is standing way behind me watching everything I do out of the corner of her eye. We have not encountered any other travellers recently so I expect they are not used to seeing many white people on the track, particularly a 60 year old lone female traveller.

The younged girl made her way up the mountain close to the boys - when they saw her Dilli jumped up and shouted "Namaste" and the others stood up behind him. Well! you have never seen anyone take off so fast. She was like a gazelle in full flight laughing and giggling all the way, with the boys doubled up with laughter.

We arrived at Langdi 1 - after six hour's walk, it was felt better to continue on to Langdi 2 another hour away. This would make it a three hour walk to Naya Pool tomorrow to catch the bus to Pokhara.

The site for camp tonight is not the best but different - nothing surprises me any more. We have set up my tent in the main room of an old school house made of stone with a dirt floor. There are wooden shutters on the windows and bars outside. It is very dusty and they have sprinkled water on the ground to keep the dust down. The boys are all going to sleep in the kitchen area. There is a hose outside which I am hoping to take advantage of when it gets dark. False alarm - they had disconnected the hose further up the hill. One of my pairs of trouser are just about worn out with little holes appearing, the other pair is not far behind. However, due to the lightness of the material they dry out quickly and take up minimal space.

This is another prosperous area with plenty of farming, mainly corn, millet and wheat. Not so many animals. However, passing along one narrow path we ventured upon, what I felt was a very docile bullock. Sete was about to pass it when it turned and looked at him. He shoved the enormous basket he was carrying to one side and with a vertical leap of about four feet landed on top of the wall. He would not come down until the rest of us had shooed the animal further down the road!

During the night there was plenty of commotion, dogs barking and a large group of young men passing by on the election campaign trail.

Setting off for our last part of the trek to Naya Pool we cross the Modi Kola. We have passed many locals all delighted to say "hello". The girls join their hands in a praying fashion when they say "Namaste" and the boys come up to shake my hand. They try and touch me - always laughing.

We stopped at one place where an old man had bad dysentery. Dilla asked me if I had any medication left. I still had the four antibiotic tablets specifically to be taken for dysentry, so he gave them to the man telling him to take them all at once, go to bed and rest. He has blood in the stools and if the tablets do not work within five days he has to see a doctor. Unfortunately it is a very long walk to the nearest doctor so he will either have survived with the first lot of tablets, or he will have passed on to the happy hunting ground. I hope he got better.

We travelled down, down, down, so far that I got bad earache in the right ear, it was starting to pop. A little animal like a squirrel, think it was a marmot darted back and forth waiting for us to pass so it could cross the track and continue on its way down the hill.

We are now on the terraces looking over the Modi River having crossed over the suspension bridge in the middle of the village of Naya Pool. There is a lot happening as the new hydro electric scheme is being built just up the river, and we can now see the road to Pokhara and Kathmandu, which we have not seen since leaving Phedi.

Our trek is now technically speaking over. We have a two hour bus trip to Pokhara this afternoon and then return tomorrow to Kathmandu. We boarded our bus at 10.50am, it is now 11 am and we have gone 100 yards up the road. I believe there is a 40km speed limit and it is 40k to Pokhara. We have come to a halt and the conductor has poured water into the engine whilst the driver is revving it frantically. Everything has now stopped and I think they have gone to lunch. Sete is travelling on the roof. Sheeva has now been allowed inside. Once we actually got going the trip only took two hours.

Dilli has paid for the equivalent of two seats for me as a three seat area just accommodates two people with European style backsides. However, explaining that to the locals is a different matter. In the end I said don't worry about it. Had a young lad on my right and a lady on the left, and a child on my knee. There is no limit to the number of passengers, inside, on top - what's the difference. It appears there are great arguments over the fares. Some opting not to pay at all. The conductor seems to have little or no control one way or the other.

We arrived in Pokhara and then piled into the smallest taxi imaginable. Laughing now I don't know how the boys managed - but we have arrived at the camp site on the 'shores' of Pokhara Lake which hosts the tourist area. On the way we have passed through Phedi so we have come full circle.

Spent the afternoon walking round Pokhara Lakeside. The shops just about entirely cater for the tourists, similar in nature to Kathmandu merchandise. Purchased a nice pair of sandals and trousers for Sete and gave the boys 1500 rupees each about $37.50 for a tip.

An enormous bus arived with about twenty entourage for five people. The porters were very noisy all night. There is also a hippy group whose children run round stark naked.

In conclusion I must say I thoroughly enjoyed the whole trip. Laughed, cried, climbed, descended, crawled and walked my way round the Annapurna Pilgrimage Trek loving every minute. The attention and kindness of the boys was an encouragement in the faith of mankind to attain the most enjoyment from the simplest of things in life. My thanks to each and every one - DILLI, SHEEVA, SETE and JIBAN.