All the makeup on earth will not make a male look female without a great wig or hair style. Here are a few of the considerations you must make when choosing a wig or hair style (for those so fortunate to have enough of their own). The very best way to find the right wig for you is to go to a wig shop that has a true professional working there. Yes, that's right, there are sales people and there are fashion/cosmetic pros. Whether you shop in person or on the internet you must know what to look for and how to choose a wig yourself. The first consideration is color. The information and images for this article are provided with permission by Alternatives 2000 www.onthetop.com. Also listed on my clothing page
CHOOSE THE RIGHT COLOR THE FIRST TIME
When considering the purchase of a wig by mail order, the best way to get a reasonably accurate color match is to send a sample of your hair, or of another wig you have. A hair sample at least a pencil’s width is needed for an accurate color interpretation. All good wig companies have color rings from each wig company they deal with, and can determine your color as close a possible from your hair sample. If you are purchasing human hair or a human hair blend wig, they may offer custom coloring services. Communicate with the company. If you desire to have a color other than your natural color, and many of us do, tell the company what you'd like to do and they should be able to suggest a solution. Don't try to match a color from an internet ad, they are just not accurate enough colors. It would be good to know a little about how colors are matched.
Wig colors are determined from color sample rings provided by
each individual manufacturer. A color ring is a group of hair swatches of the
pre-determined colors which are used by each wig manufacturer to represent the
different shades in which its hairgoods are available. Each swatch is attached
to a small plastic disk with a number on it, and these disks are usually
attached to some kind of ring to keep them together. The vast majority of wig
manufacturers today use the J&L color standard for both human hair and
synthetic hairgoods. There are certain universal colors with were determined
long ago when the wig business was new. This is called the J&L color
standard, and the colors are similar on swatch rings from companies who use this
standard.
The colors are represented by number from 1 on up. Examples: 1 is jet black, 8
is light brown, 16 is honey blonde, 30 is light auburn, 44 is salt and pepper
grey, 60 is white, 18/22 is ash blonde frost, etc. With most manufacturers, a /
between the numbers means that the color is frosted with both colors in 50-50
ratio. If the color has a - such as 16-8, it usually means that the lighter
color is lightly sprinkled through the darker color, either in the front or
throughout the wig, creating a subtle highlight. The factory which processes the
human hair or makes the synthetic fiber produces flat, unblended colors like
black, browns, reds, blondes, and even yellows, greens and blues in many
different shades. Also different fibers can vary in color. The finished colors
from which a company creates their color selection are a blend of different
shades.
Example: #8 light brown on one color ring might be lighter or darker, warmer or
more ash-toned, than the same number on another company’s ring. In other
words, although a company may use the J&L standard, each company has its own
blend of shades it uses in order to personalize its own product. In addition,
companies may have special blends or colors which are unique to them, such as
various highlighted and rooted color combinations. So that unless one uses the
color ring to determine a company’s particular selection, it would be
difficult to get an exact color match for yourself. Okay, don't get too hung up
on this, we can use a range of colors and are not locked into a color so
exactly. The next important consideration is size.
WHAT SIZE CAP DO YOU NEED?
The way a wig fits your head
is a very important point. A good comfortable fit is necessary if one is to wear
a wig for an extended period of time. If the wig is uncomfortable, you won’t
wear it. It’s that simple.
To measure your head for a wig, take a cloth tape measure and be sure that it
has not been stretched. If you’re not sure, measure it against a metal or
plastic one for accuracy. Then follow the instructions below. You need all four
measurements if you need or desire a custom fitted.
CIRCUMFERENCE: Start the
tape at the middle of your hairline (or where it would be if you had a full head
of hair) at the forehead. Run the tape back to the nape hairline (behind the
ears) and around the head where it will meet back at the front. This is the main
measurement, corresponding to where the wig band will run.
EAR TO EAR: Lay the end of the tape about ½ inch above the little crease at the
top of your ear between your ear and your head. Then bring the tape across the
top of your head to the other ear at the same point.
FRONT TO BACK: From the front hairline to the back hairline. If you have little
or no hair, lay your index, third and ring fingers flat against your forehead
just above your brow bone. At the top of your fingers would be a likely starting
place. Lay the end of the tape at
this point and measure back to about an inch below the little (occipital) bone
that sticks out at the bottom of your skull.
TEMPLE TO TEMPLE: Start the tape just in front of your ear. Measure the distance
across your forehead hairline to the other ear at the same point.
ULTRA PETITE SIZES are 19 inches to 20 inches. There are
pre-made wigs which will work for this size, but most are either children’s
styles or shorter-length adult styles. There are pre-made high-quality synthetic
and human hair prostheses which will fit these sizes, but they must be custom
styled by a professional.
PETITE SIZES are 20 inches to 21 inches. Again, there are wigs which are
available for these sizes. Most wigs can be sized down to fit these measurements
without having the cap custom made. If the word "petite" is included
in the name of the wig, chances are that the cap size is petite.
AVERAGE SIZES are 21 inches to 22½ inches. Most wigs are made to fit these
sizes, but can be stretched or adjusted down about an inch either way to
accommodate smaller or larger head sizes. Be aware that cap sizes vary from
brand to brand, and you should make sure before you buy that the cap is right
for your size. Some caps will stretch better than others, but all can be made
smaller.
LARGE SIZES are 22½ inches to 24 inches. The best choices for these sizes are
JACQUELYN wigs. Most of them are made for the average to large size head, and
the cap is more flexible than most other brands. A stock Jacquelyn can usually
be stretched to accommodate a 24-inch head comfortably.
CUSTOM SIZES: If your head circumference is smaller than 19 inches or larger
than 24 inches, you may need to order a custom made cap. There are various
companies that make wigs to accommodate this size range. However, if you want a
style that is normally available only in an average size, ask if you can have it
made in your size.
What Style is best for me?
The last question. You know what you'd like to look like, but
will it work. Generally the shape of your face is all you need to know.
Styles should accentuate your best facial features, while minimizing your
less-than-flattering features. Here's how to determine your facial shape.
1. Pull hair back and secure with pins or a headband so hair is
completely off the face.
2. Stand 12" from a mirror and look straight into it -- or have someone
take a picture of you facing straight into the camera with your hairline
showing.
3. Outline your face with a marker on the mirror with tracing paper, or on the
photo.
4. Now look at your face shape in the mirror or photo drawing. Choose the shape
that most closely resembles your own. If your face is a combination of shapes,
choose styles based on the following criteria, which most flatter your
particular shape.
OVAL FACE----Oval is considered
by many to be the ideal and most versatile face shape, since nearly every style
looks becoming on this facial shape. Hair pulled back or worn in an updo shows
off the oval face the most. In long styles, a great classic look is a center or
side part with hair touching shoulders. The short-layered looks with curls and a
close extended nape focus on this oval. Are you this lucky?
ROUND FACE----This shape is
round at the cheeks and a has a circular form.There is more of the face near the
ears and gradually less curving upward and downward. The goal: to slim your
face. Hair below the chin line should be worn with a face-lengthening center
part; for hair above chin line, wear an off-center part to interrupt the
roundness. Height at the crown and a bare forehead lengthen and slim the face.
It's best to avoid short and sleeked-back hairstyles. In short-angled styles,
you are best seen with hair brushed away from the face, building extra crown
height to narrow the roundness of your features. Though bangs shorten the face,
you can wear curly, tousled bangs or a soft wispy fringe . Always avoid full,
straight-falling bangs. Wear longer styles closer to the face to give length.
SQUARE FACE---- This face is
characterized by an angular jaw and square brow, with jaw and brow being nearly
the same width. The goal: soften the sharp angle of jawline and minimize
squared-off brow. Hairstyles which emphasize the cheekbones mid-line of the face
are most flattering. Bangs and waves at the temple also soften the square. Wear
your best styles with hair swinging forward onto the face to reduce the angles.
Hair length is best about 1-1/2" below the chin, or extending to shoulder
length to reduce and soften the squareness of your jaw. Hair worn on the
forehead is always perfect for you, as long as it is wispy or fringed. Never
wear straight bangs. Hair turned under at the bottom also will narrow the width
of the jaw. Styles in loose curls and waves add extra dimension to the square
face.
PEAR-SHAPED FACE ----This shape
has a wide chin and a narrow forehead. The goal: narrow the chin and widen the
forehead. Wear your hair wide and full at the top of the head and temples,
brushed away from the face and up toward the ear to widen forehead; from the
ear, angle hair forward toward the chin to soften and narrow a strong jaw.
Styles which are wide and full at the chin will emphasize the width of the
jawline, and should be avoided. The wedge styles, which are brushed away from
the face and give width at the forehead are perfect for this facial shape.
HEART SHAPED FACE---- This is
a triangular-shaped face. This face is narrow at the jaw line, wider at the eye
line, cheek bones and even more at the brow line. The goal: diminish forehead
width and create a wider, fuller jaw effect. Soft bangs flatter this shape,
whether curly or smoother. Or wear a side part with soft three-quarter bangs
swept over one side to balance your forehead width. The styles should be fuller
at the jaw line. Upswept at the sides and off the forehead further emphasize
your feminine appeal . A medium length to mid-neck is your best look. Fullness
at the bottom, with hair directed forward onto the cheeks gives you the
appearance of a wide chin. The soft layered bob styles are ideal. Or if you
prefer, curls or loose waves, shaped from the ears down, add width and fullness
to your chin.
OBLONG FACE----This shape is
long and thin, often with a chin that tends to look pointed. There is very
little difference in width between the top, middle or bottom of your face but it
is more rounded than the square face. Hairstyles should add width and fullness
to the sides of the face and around the eyes, cheekbones and ears. This shape
benefits from a low side part, with a sweep of hair brushed across the forehead
and secured with a comb. The look of volume with an asymmetric flow of hair to
one side widens your face and reduces length. Straight-falling bangs or bangs
blended with the sides of your hair, shorten the overall face length. Your best
hair length reaches to the middle of the neck. Favor volume with curly or wavy
styles that are very becoming, giving you the illusion of balanced width. Wide
curly bob styles are ideal for this shape.
REMEMBER...your hairstyle is a frame for your face. Your
best/worst features should be enhanced/minimized by your hairstyle. Because the
OVAL face is the ideal, your most flattering hairstyle will be as close as
possible to creating the illusion of an OVAL shape. Now go find that great wig
and look marvelous. More on wigdom later.
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