COSTUMES AND CLOTHING

THE CLASSICAL WORLD

Longsword

Costumes and Clothing Index

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  • The Greeks and Romans

    Early inhabitants of western Asia Minor and the Greek Peninsula wore a form of hose and sleeved tunics, similar to Persian dress, indicating their origin in more northerly climates. Clothing developed into what is known as the classical style and consisted chiefly of the peplos,The Peplos Kore c. 540-530 BC the chlamys, and the chiton.

    The peplos was two rectangles of wool cloth embroidered with small
    Peplos patterns or rows of figures which pinned at the shoulders and fell straight or in folds to the ankles. It was commonly belted above the waist. The chiton developed in about 479 BC and was worn short by men and ankle length by women. It was made of linenMourning Athene c. 470-450 BC or wool, had no embroidery and was belted or girdled in varying styles. If stitched together down
    Chitonthe sides, it formed short sleeves. The chlamys was a cloak doubled or pinned over one shoulder which could be, and often was, worn alone. Greeks of both sexes exercised in the gymnasium naked. Women wore the peplos, a version of the chlamys, belted at the waist and falling to the ankles. In winter, a larger cloak, the himation, was worn instead of the chlamys. As time went on, the garment became more luxurious in fabric, color, and ornamentation.

    Early Roman men wore a shirt like tunica and the toga, which persisted as formal and ceremonial dress throughout the Republic until the end of the Western Roman Empire. Although similar to the Greek chlamys or himation, the toga was considerably larger. It consisted of a wool oval of cloth about three times the length of the Augustus after 27 BCwearer and was worn halved along its length in draped, complicated folds. The size and shape of the toga, as well as the color of the border, indicated social position. Originally of
    Togawhite wool and undecorated, the toga became more elaborate and gold embroidered designs were added. The Romans generally wore sandals.

    Women wore a simple version of the toga called a palla over their tunica. Women's hairstyles were varied and elaborate with wigs and falls supplementing natural hair. During imperial times, dying the hair became a fad.

    In the Western Empire, except as ceremonial attire, the toga dwindled in size and finally became a band of cloth called the stola, or stole. The tunica evolved in varied forms and increasing ornamentation and survives (now called the dalmatic) in Christian church vestments, as does the stole.

    While it was originally reserved for the clergy, purple developed into the distinguishing color of the Roman Senate and the emperors and subsequently became associated with European royalty.

    Women wore a long tunic originally of wool, later of cotton, and eventually of silk which also became increasingly elaborate and ornamented. Over this was worn the stola draped as a head covering and cloak. Hose and leather boots were adopted from the conquered Northern European tribes and worn in colder weather and as part of military attire. Northern European trousers were also introduced.

  • Byzantium

    Dress changed from traditional Roman loose drapery to Oriental embroidery, fringes, borders, and decoration. The costume of the court became very formalized and stiff in appearance with gems sometimes worked into mantles and cloaks. While women wore softer robes of silk, they also wore collars and crown-like headdresses encrusted with pearls and precious stones.

    The most obvious early change was the semicircular cloak pinned on the right shoulder, but later additions include the Persian caftan and the Assyrian long-sleeved robe. The latter two probably developed into the dress of the Russian court, which changed little until the Westernization of Russia by Peter the Great.

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    Last Updated September 6, 1997