COSTUMES AND CLOTHING

The Italian Renaissance (1420-1520)

Costume in Italy followed the Gothic style of northern Europe until the mid-15th century. Renaissance clothing
then evolved and was brought to the rest of Europe following the invasion of Italy in 1494 by Charles VIII of France. Dress assumed a more natural appearance. The robe appeared, which was actually more a dress with an attached bodice and skirt. Men's doublets grew shorter and hose received greater emphasis. Women's hair reappeared, elaborately trimmed with thin veils, ribbons, and jewels. The use of lace and perfume became more common. The low-necked tunic and chemise for men and the simple and low-necked Juliet gowns of the women had a very rapid effect on the evolution of European costume.

For women, early in the Renaissance period there appeared a long, rigid, almost cone-shaped corset reaching well below the waist to a V in front. The breasts were forced upward above the corset until fashions changed with the French Revolution in 1789. Although the basic garments remained much the same as they had been in the Middle Ages, the relatively natural look was replaced with elaborate shapes, lacing, padding, and rigidity.

The Later Renaissance (1520-1650)

By the third decade of the 16th century, simplicity had
vanished, and the vertical look of medieval costume had completely become the horizontal look of Renaissance dress, which created an impression of mass and bulk. The slashing craze occurred at the same time. Probably originating in south Germany, and surviving well into the 17th century, slashing involved cutting slits in the outer fabric and pulling the lining fabric through the hole to create a puffy, decorative contrast. At first, slashings consisted of small, intricate patterns, but from 1600 to about 1650, slashing became longer and more vertical in shape.

Another development of this period
was the use, or at least exposure, of clean linen chemises, by both men and women. Once exposed, the chemise was decorated and the lace edges and frills at the neck and sleeves developed into starched and elaborate ruffs worn for another century. These collars were worn until finally they became the lace fall, or jabot, and eventually the cravat and then the necktie. The basic change in men's clothing during the Renaissance period, other than in decorative emphasis, was the lengthening of breeches, which were also elaborately decorated once exposed.

Women's headdresses became at first a simple hood which then became peaked. Men's hats were broad and sometimes trimmed with gems.

Women's robes expanded below the waistline and by 1550 became supported by hoops made of wire or wicker which were held together with ribbons or tapes. The hoopskirt, called the farthingale, reached its maximum width around 1600, when it became a cartwheel or drum shape. This was combined with ballooned sleeves and expanded ruffs or circular lace collars. Men had a similar look with puffed out trunk hose, balloon sleeves, padded doublets, and large ruff collars.

Medieval

17th Century

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