GT's LTS/STS suspension has been a big thing over the years in the racing world, to list all the victories aboard the bike would be almost impossible! With this type of results it's no wonder that so many are sold! I'm a proud owner of a STS2, and I have to say it's one hell of a bike! But to get that optimum ride, you really have to mess around and try different setup and once you got it, it*s a sweet ride down (or up if you did get it for xc)! Here I'll post the setup that I have found that works for me and once I find another that works it will be here!
Before anything here's my bikes' setup:
--my weight about 165 lb. --
--Frame: 16 inch STS 2 -- Back shock: Rock Shox Coup deluxe with 700 lb. spring --
--Fork: RST MOZO 4.5 with Red speed springs + one RST MCU -- Tire pressure: about 40-50 psi (I don't really care!)-Click here to check out the rest of the specs' of this bike.
Even though I don't do much Down Hill riding, I like setting it up to plushy long travel, it's a psychological thing "longer travel = faster speed" like it ever works! I have really only ridden the bike for a month or so, so this is what I have found so far.
I find that I like the XC travel mode (mount to front) better for jumping and just riding around since it doesn't sag as much. I run no preload on it, and damping in the middle. I Put about a turn of preload when I do jumps with it, but I like my hard tail more for doing jumps.
When I run DH travel mode (mount to back) I put in 2 to 4 full turns of preload, since with out it, it sags 2 inches, where the XC mode only sags 1/2 inch, and I run faster damping so the shock returns faster, so I get more use of the travel. (The manual should teach you who to measure sag, if not then here's how: Measure the BB height from the middle of the BB, then sit on the bike and get some one to measure the BB height again, find the difference and there you got your sag. GT recommend that XC mode is 1/2 inch, and DH mode do what ever (thanks guys!). I let it go about an inch and a bit of sag in the DH mode.)
With that done you can start messing with your geometry. You can change the BB height and your head and seat tube angles, by moving the shock up or down the mount, it sounds confusing but once you try it you'd get it.
When you screw the shock counter clockwise, it moves up the mount, it will lower the ride height and slacken the angles, since by doing so you compress the back triangle, so slower steering, but stable at speed. If you move the shock down the mount (turn clock wise), this extends the back triangle, rises the ride height and steepens the angles. You get faster handling and higher ride height. I run with the later because faster handling is needed due the Mozo's height and rake or offset even after dropping the crown down the stantions a full inch. I compensate a little of the off set the fork caused, but still not enough. Also you have to trade off the BB height, mine is like 13-14 inches high! I'd like a lower bike, so I'll stick with the fork right now, but I'm looking at the 98 bomber Z1 right now. (Man I should have kept the Judy C that came with the STS, and save the money up for the Z1!... Oh well. That is definitely going to the hype zone!)
The Hyperactive Man
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