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Introduction
Late in the 14th century, the style for men's clothing changed to houpelandes. The early houpelandes were floor length, very full-skirted gowns with large, full, open sleeves.1 The houpelande was later shortened and eventually was replaced by the doublet. Houpelandes were worn by men in every European country in the first half of the 15th century. The particular style of houpelande presented here is based mainly on Italian paintings of the early 15th century.
Houpelande Style and Construction Between 1400 and 1450
While floor-length houpelandes were still the main style worn by clergy and older gentlemen, it became fashionable during this time period for young men to wear shorter houpelandes. Most of the examples seen in paintings between 1400 and 1450 are of men wearing houpelandes that reach to mid-calf or just to the knees.2 The sleeves were sometimes left open, and sometimes gathered tightly at the wrist, with long slit left through which the wearer could put his arm.3 The houpelande was sometimes belted around the waist or the hips.
The fabric used for a houpelande would probably have been made of wool or linen. It is possible that a heavy silk brocade or velvet might also have been used. Silk might have been used for the lining but is unlikely to have been used as the outer fabric. Linen thread would most likely have been used for the stitching, and the entire garment would have been hand-sewn, probably using a running stitch.
The houpelande might have been made from a plain solid color fabric, or a brocade (single or multi-colored). In the Middle Ages, cloth was made in a broad range of colors. Red in particular was produced using the most expensive dye available (extracted from a Mediterranean bug, the kermes).4 Greens and blues were also very popular during these centuries, as is evidenced by the number of paintings that depict clothing in these colors. The darker the color, the more expensive the cloth, thus dark clothing, unless handed down, indicated that the wearer was wealthy. Seams were sewn entirely by hand, as the sewing machine had not yet been invented. A running stitch was commonly used for most seams. Seams that would be under stress, such as those on the back of hose, were sometimes sewn with a backstitch.5
Several methods of trimming the houpelande were used. Often a strip of the same fabric used for the lining was attached at the bottom of the hem. This strip may have been as wide as 6 inches or as narrow as ˝ inch. Fur was also a popular trim. Brown fur was often used. There are fewer
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