Japan

   
Japan has always been a fascinating country to me. I remember as a kid my favorite cartoons and TV shows were from Japan. Such as Doremon, Atom Boy and Ultraman. Japanese culture also invaded my life daily in various forms from martial arts, cars, arcade games, Nintendo, Sega to sushi. What else did I know about Japan? Pearl Harbour, the Nanking massacre and the cruelty the Japanese dealt to my grandparents during WWII. I wanted to know how such a small country could have such an influence over the rest of the world?
 
Pachinko Parlor
Pachinko parlor, Shinjuku
So I traveled to Japan in February 2001 to visit some friends and to see the country. I arrived visited the mega-metropolis of Tokyo, a truly amazing city with concrete as far as the eyes can see. Honestly! You can check this out too by taking a free lift up the Tokyo Metropolitan Government office building (aka Tokyo Tocho) in Shinjuku! And at night the neon lights comes alive and in places like Shinjuku, Ginza and Akihabara you are surrounded by a sea of people. My favorite place in Tokyo are the bridges beneath the railway in the Ueno district. There were all sorts of shops selling everything from fried squid, biscuits, cooking utensil, sun glasses, jewelry to tacky shoes and clothes.
Tokyo Toncho
Tokyo Tocho
 
Nikko, only an hour North of Tokyo is a sacred site from the 8th century filled with shrines and temples. It was a sunny but chilly day when I visited and everything were covered in snow. The magical effects of snow made the scenary soft and beautiful. I took many photos as this was the first historical area I visited in Japan. It was fascinating to see the constructions of the Japanese temples and shrines, the design were mostly simple yet elegant. That was of course, before I arrive at the gates of Yomei-mon. The gates are covered with details from animals, mystical and otherwise pasted with glimmering gold leaf and red lacquerwork. The walls are decorated with intricate painting, colored relief carvings and paintings of flowers, dancing girls, mythical beast and Chinese sages. I had most of the ground to myself due to a distinct lack of tourist. This factor combining with the beautiful scenary made Nikko my favorite place in Japan.
 

3 evils
"Hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil"

Gates of Yomei-mon
The gates of Yomei-mon.
Nikko
Nikko and it's shrines.
Jizo statues
Collection statues of Jizo, Gamman-Ga-Fuchi Abyss
 
I met up with friends while in Tokyo, one was Makoto - a great dude without dye hair like every other Japanese! He lives in Funabashi, his room is up in the attic... Which suites his lifestyle. Makoto you see, is a rather good photographer. He develops his own prints and he collects antique cameras. Being up there gives him all the privacy he needs. I also caught up with Rui, whom I traveled with through parts of France and Portugal in 2000, he is a chief and has help brush up my cooking skills! :)
Rui, Ben, Makoto
Rui, me and Makoto
   
Kinkaku-ji
Golden temple, Kinkaku-ji
Kyoto and Nara was next on my destination, so after a farewell to both Makoto and Rui, I jumped on an overnight bus for an 8 hour journey to Kyoto. Too bad I din't see Mt Fuji along the way - never mind, I bought the postcards. :b Kyoto is a beautiful city compare to Tokyo. It is surrounded by shrines, temples and castle. So it was no surprise to learn that this was an ancient capital of Japan. I spent my days wondering through various temples and Shinto shrines, walking along its famous teapot lane, and hanging out in Gion district in order to get a glimpse of Geisha's and Maiko's on their way to work.
   
Upon leaving Kyoto I caught another bus to Hiroshima. I wanted to visit the Peace Memorial Park and it's adjoining museum, in which it told of eye witness accounts regarding the horror of the 6th August 1945, and saw the clothes left by many of the dead after the atomic blast. I found it to be sad and a very sobering experience. But the city can take pride now for it's rebuilding effort as it is pleasant to wonder around. I also found Hiroshima to be a vibrant city without the crowds of Tokyo or Osaka.
 
Buddhist monks praying.
Buddhist monks praying for peace...
Statue with paper crane.
Statue with thousands of paper cranes stitched together.
Sculptures
Atomic Dome
The Atomic dome with paper cranes in the foreground.
Peace Statue
Peace statue with Hiroshima castle in the background.
   
After Hiroshima I hitchhike to Osaka, it was a great experience as I was taken onboard trucks and vans by people who could hardly speak a word of English. It seemed like most people mistaken me to be a Japanese which was why they gave me a ride in the first place! I knew that bit of fluff on my chin helped! :) One great person I met while hitchhiking was Shige, a delivery person who has been driving for the past 8 hours from Kyushu when he stoped to pick me up. He was friendly and invited me to stay the night with his family in Shiga, I accepted the invite as I wanted to "see" a typical Japanese house. I really like the Japanese houses, with their tatami mats to sit on the ground without bulky couches. Everything was built with space saving in mind, from the foldable mattress, removable door frames to lightly built tables. I had a great time hanging out with Shige and his family, we got on well and I have promise to visit them again the next time I visit Japan.  
 

I left for Osaka the following day. Osaka is another mega metropolis, it is Japan's second largest city and therefore pretty happening. There is a district called America Mura, with it's own Statue of Liberty. Most kids here are pretty trendy spotting retro American clothes while skating around the block. I found these Americans-wannabe's quite hilarious. I visited the park by Osaka-Jo (Castle) on the weekend and saw more hilarious sights. Japanese punks and bogans banging away rock-&-roll style to hip swaying fans. It must've been hard to dance to the distorted sound as all the bands were playing 10 metres from each other! Then I encountered Japanese Goth hanging out with others walking around in white and pink wedding dress. I think they were all spoting a sign saying LOOK AT ME I AM DIFFERENT!!!! :)

Whilst in Osaka I stayed with Aki - another Japanese backpacker I met in Spain. Aki lives in a modest house with his parents and brother. They have a small snack store out front and his mum sells a delicious dish called Ekonomi-yaki (made of octopus and other stuff) - VERY YUMMY!

My mate Aki!
My mate Aki!!!
In front of the Umeda Sky Building.
 
Yummy sushi!
It's all fake!
Other then that, there are loads of brilliant food, remember what I said about food in Japan!!!! I wish I had more time too, as I din't get to eat everything I wanted to nor see all the places I wanted to see. I found the Japanese to be extremely polite, friendly and very helpful, even if they hardly spoke any English. Advice for people who are keen on Japan would be to get a Japan Rail pass. Bus is another cheap option, but if you have time I think hitchhiking is pretty safe plus you get to meet the locals close up. :)
 
Finally, I want to send out a big "WHAAAAAAASUP!" to Akihiko Sekitani (Osaka), Makoto Ueno (Tokyo), Rui Maehara (Tokyo), Nicholas Despopoulos (American ESOL teacher in Osaka), Yun Hyongseok (Korean travelling in Osaka), Shige Tugo and family (Shiga). I had a really good time hanging out with you guys, and I hope to see you all again in the future!!!
 

Recommended reading

Lost Japan by Alex Kerr ISBN: 0864423705
Memoirs of a Geisha by Arthur Golden ISBN: 0099771519

Links

Japan Travel Update
Lonely Planets Japan Guide

 
 
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