Vietnam is an interesting country to travel in. I spent two months exploring this country from toe to tip and saw the good, the bad and the ugly.

I left Phu Quoc and worked my way up the Mekong Delta, visiting places such as Soc Trang to see some Khmer style Temples, a Bat Pagoda - so called because of the noisy fruit bats which lives in the area and the Clay Pagoda. Traveling up the Delta was a highlight as I got to see the everyday going-on's of Vietnamese. I saw how rice noodles were made, saw the long process of drying rice, saw salt fields, hung out with kids whom torment my English companion Tom (but you did love the attention at first din't you??? ), and met overseas-Vietnamese returnees - a group from Canada and a student from Melbourne.

Entering Saigon...

I was looking forward to Ho Chi Minh City, better known as Saigon. Since this city was where my fascination with Vietnam started. As a kid I was intrigue by the war in Vietnam, especially during the American occupation. And Saigon was one happening place back then, including at one time, having the busiest Airport in the world. Saigon of 2003 is modern with an eyesore of concrete buildings and a dash of charming French architecture. From the beautiful Notra Dame to the People Committee's building aka Hotel de Ville. I visited many museums, including one used to be called "The American War Crime Museum" but now known as the "Museum of War Remnants", name changed to reflect the growing amount of US tourist no doubt! My favorite past time was to walk the streets here, past extravagant funeral procession with it's chanting and gong's and past street side hair dresser and ear-pickers. I hook up with Trevor in Saigon, and together we headed up the Prudential Tower, at 33 floors it is the highest building in Saigon. We went up there for ice-cream and a view of the city. I won't say Saigon is beautiful but it is certainly an interesting place!

I did some tours around Saigon too, visiting the Cu Chi tunnels and the churches of the Cao Dai sect. At the tunnels one can only wonder at the difficulties those brave Viet Cong guerilla face as they hid and lived in cramp dark space, surrounded by American troops and living under the constant fear of those dreaded B-52 bombings. I also got a crack at firing M-16's and AK-47 assault rifle. Though I must say I can't shoot for shit.

The hilltop station of Dalat and the seaside village of Dalat...

I headed up north to the Highlands upon leaving Saigon, for the town of Dalat. This is the holiday spot for local Vietnamese too, many coming to have weddings. It is in Dalat that I tried the most extreme sport in this travel... It was a river adventure with Hardy Tours. We were led by one Mr Diep, the 49 year old adventurer. He lead us down 25 meters waterfall, absailing into the falls and canyon our way down fast flowing rivers. And a shot of rice wine when we are chill to the bones. This is one adventure I'll never forget and highly recommended to anyone out looking for a bruising!

DMZ Tour and Hue.

Following fellow travelers. footstep I took on the very popular DMZ tour at Hue, once the capital of Vietnam. The DMZ tour takes travelers. through significant areas from the war-era. We visited battle scar sites too, such as the shell of what once was a church. Bullet holes and splash damages from rocket propel grenade covered the entire building. The actual DMZ (Demilitarize Zone) across the Ben Hai River reveal little of what went on during the war, though a scattering of B-52 bomb craters can still be seen in the surrounding countryside. The tour also took us through the tunnels of Vinh Moc and Khe Sanh firebase. All eerily silent and serve as a reminder to the horrible war which the local people went through.

After Hue it was an overnight bus out to Ninh Binh and Tam Coc. Now this place and it's surrounding countryside offers one of the most amazing sights in Vietnam. Ridding a motorbike into the country side, surrounded by paddy fields and pockets full of mountains ranging in heights from 300m to 600m. The quiet motor ride also took me through stone quarries and many little stream and rivers. The people in this area are very friendly, many coming to say hello and I was surprise at only encountering ONE tout!

Hanoi's old quarters...

Entering Hanoi.

After quiet Ninh Binh it was onwards to the capital - Hanoi. I LOVE Hanoi! It is my favorite city in Asia. I love this city for it's beautiful and often rustic buildings. It is unlike any big modern capital I have come across. There are no huge highway running through the city center, no skyline full of cranes and tall buildings, it is almost devoid of traffic of the kind we know. Instead it is full of men and women running around carrying their bamboo pole full of vegetable and whatnots, dodging endless "toots toots" of motorbikes.

I check myself into the old quarter upon arriving, not far from Hoan Kiem Lake. it is a noisy area full of life. Right below me was a busy market place so screams of sellers bargaining could be heard all day long. I really enjoy walking and cycling along Hanoi, checking out the slow pace of life and trying out many local food stores. I also check out a puppet show, called the water puppets. So called because the puppeteers pull their stuff beneath water!

I had plenty of time on hand because I had to see the dentist. It turn out that I needed to have a root canal operation *cringe*, which comes at a scary time as SARS was all around us, and rumors of hospital quarantines and any contact with medical professionals should be kept to a minimal. However the dental clinic I visited was modern and clean. They manage to remove and fix my tooth without speaking a word of English, I felt brave to accept their explanation through sign language. But hey they did a superb job!!!

Rice terrace farming
in Sapa

Beautiful Sapa.

If my favorite city was Hanoi my favorite town would be Sapa. The hilly area by the border of China. It was in Sapa that I really got to put up my feet and chill after the hassle and bustle of the lowlands. Because of the hilly terrain Sapa is covered with rice terracing. Tended by it's hill tribe people, mainly the Hmong's. Walking through terrace rice paddies and wondering into some local's house (Yes! We were welcomed in) and seeing both their poverty and generosity at the same time was a touching experience. Derek, Ben and I later went climbing. We climb Mt Fansipan, the highest mountain in Vietnam, at 3143m. At the top we took turns waving a Vietnamese flag waved and posing with a statue of Uncle Ho.

"Chào!" to...

Stephanie whom shared the dog stew with me in Phu Quoc (Germany), Kiki (Swedish) & An Thu - dive instructors at Phu Quoc, Tom Wilson (UK), my favorite favorite favorite companions Andrea Misteli & Gregory Chima (Switzerland) - I miss you guys!!! Matthis Stalder (Switzerland), the best guide ever - Trinh Hgoc The (Hatien), Vivian Huynh (Rach Gia), my dive partner Trevor Bishop (UK), the dude who's house I wondered into - Tran Van An (Hoi An), Adam Clayton (UK), cyclist Amelia Oliver (USA), Kazuhisa Shiozawa & Yoshihiro Koitani (JP), Richard Miller and Yummi (USA & JP), Miles Willis (UK), cutie Dang Ngoc Diep (Hanoi), CRAZY pool sharks Simone & Ben Boyd (Aussie), funny as fuck Ichiro Kobayashi (Osaka, Japan) Ben Cowsill whom cracked his head while climbing MT Fansipan with me (UK), along with Derek Jackson (USA) and Dave Stead (Aussie).